tranny repaired now oil leaking from somewhere bad

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just reinstalled the engine after repairing the transmission on a 06 1200 vmax. i started up the bike and realized that oil was leaking around part #24 on the hyperlink below

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeI...del/VMX12V_V-MAX/GroupID/347841/Group/CLUTCH_

i put a new OIL SEAL,SDO-TYPE, part #23, on the bike but it's still leaking. anyone know how to rectify this? all of the bolts holding the cases together were torqued to specs and part #24 was installed correctly per the Yamaha Service Manual's instructions.

anything helps.
 
Is it possible to establish if the leak is between the seal and crankcase - use some silicon or hylomar when assembling or between the seal and push-rod - check the push-rod for wear where the lip of the seal makes contact and replace the rod if necessary.

When putting the push-rod back it would probably be better to insert from the clutch side (a pain to have to take everything apart!) rather from than from the slave cylinder side as that way you won't be pushing against the lip of the seal which may damage it.
If you do re-insert from the slave side make sure you use plenty of lube.
 
It likely won't be leaking much from the pushrod. Did you put a new oring on the guide? Not required but it may have been pinched or cut and leaking past that oring.

Sean
 
sean, i used a new o-ring when installing the oil seal and it's still leaking an unacceptable amount. argh. i'll double check the torque on all the crankcase bolts.

im going to try taking maxmidnight's suggestion about using hylamar between the pushrod and seal to see if that helps.
 
I didn't look up part 24 but is it possible one of the bolts should have had sealant around it? I'm just throwing that out there. I locate leaks by using a spray cleaner like contact cleaner, wipe things dry and puff a little talcum powder or even flour. Usually easy to spot a bad leaker like you have.
 
Two of the case bolts, pointing down ward, behind the rear heads, have crush washers on them.
It would be pretty easy to see these leaking if they were, plus unless you pulled the heads off you can't completely remove them any way and therefore couldn't have left the crush washers out.
 
Have you checked the carb manifold bolts ? 2 or 4 of them go into an oil gallery and you must use sealant on them. The reason I am saying this is because oil may be dripping from one of the bolts and running down to the suspected area.
 
im worried where im going to find that leak so i didn't do much today. oil looks like it's coming out of the allen bolt with a drip of oil on it, its below the banjo fitting and above the neutral switch.
06+yamaha+vmax+hydraulic+clutch+slave+cylinder.jpg


This leads to the seal the surrounds the clutch pushrod. the leak could also be coming from above this but i am not sure and will have to clean, powder and re-inspect the block.

alorio1, i don't think the leak would be somewhere as high as the carb boots but i double check the idea.

rusty, are the washered bolts able to fall out of there threads but not out of their hole because they reach the top of crankcase? here's a diagram if you know the part's location.

patmax, assuming someone used too much gasket material it's always a good assumption to make but alas i used a fine this coat leaving >5mm on either side of every oil gallery. im thinking i should check oil pressure to make sure the pump is pumping enough pressure.
 
I'm thinking I should check oil pressure to make sure the pump is pumping enough pressure.

The oil pressure would need to be too high rather than low nor would it give you the problem you have.

However, if you had too much crankcase pressure and a breather that wasn't able to cope this could cause oil to be forced out of the weakest point.
That said, I would have thought that the motor would smoke excessively or you would have high oil consumption, so I think it is unlikely.

Before taking time investigating the more unusual potential faults eliminate the simple ones (like a buggered seal or worn push-rod) first.
 
In regards to the head bolt question;


Yes, they unscrew completely but are too long too extract from the hole with the heads in the way.
 
Speaking of powder to find leaks;

I guessed I missed this somewhere along the way in life.
I'm up in Arkansas on a warranty job for some leaking 500kV transformers we did last year.
The subcontractor is using blue string chalk mixed with denatured alcohol, like a thin paste, and painting it on suspect areas after cleaning them.
The alcohol evaporates leaving a hardened chalk behind which will show where it's leaking.

Damn cool I thought.
 
Would slightly over-filling after an oil change cause this drip ( I think I have it, too.) I took the bike out today for the first time since clutch swapping and noticed 5 drips right after I parked the bike-within a couple minutes. It stopped after that, though. I don't think I'm going to lose a whole case worth of oil this way, especially riding about 20-25 miles at a time, but it would be great if I could just lower the oil level a bit and solve it.
 

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Would slightly over-filling after an oil change cause this drip ( I think I have it, too.) I took the bike out today for the first time since clutch swapping and noticed 5 drips right after I parked the bike-within a couple minutes. It stopped after that, though. I don't think I'm going to lose a whole case worth of oil this way, especially riding about 20-25 miles at a time, but it would be great if I could just lower the oil level a bit and solve it.

If your clutch slave is leaking its prolly due to a bad or mid-seated o-ring or gasket.
I don't think lowering level is going to help here.
That slave is easy enough to change the o-ring on or gasket.
If you have a braided line on the clutch you might even be able to change it without "breaking the seal" or line on the clutch line
 
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