Tricks to plug the carbs back in??

[wayne z]

Hi all, I've just finished rebuilding and re-racking my carbs as per the tutorials found here. Found plenty info on removing, rebuilding and syncing, but have found NO info in plugging them back into the sockets.

I installed new boots with no problem after lubing with light oil.

I tried for 1/2 hour to plug the racked carbs back in, repeatedly trying different starting points ect.
Closest I came to success was using a short and long piece of 1x2 cedar board with the short piece on edge sitting on 2 carbs and levering the long piece flatways under the frame and against the short block atop 2 carbs. Worked at it some until the soft cedar board snapped.

So I am now asking for advice or tecniques that others know or used.

TIA, Wayne

 

[alorio1]

Loosen the boots on the manifolds, apply some silicone lubricant to the carb bodies or oil.......then try to get the carbs to slide in place.

 

[95spfldmax]

Getting the carbs back into even used boots can be a challenge. I usually put a rag spread out over the carbs to keep debris out and take a piece of wood along with a rubber mallet and "persuade" them back in.
Likewise, popping them out I use a wooden (approx 1" x 1") piece and leverage them off using the valve covers as a leverage point.

Good luck.............

 

[Hellboy]

This may be a dumb question, no offense meant. Do you have the rubber joiners the right way up? there is a top and bottom to them. They are also directional, in that there is a cut out pattern on the bottom side that must line up with the notches. Otherwise, I just did mine and found putting them on the bike first and then just pushing the carbs very firmly on one side and then the other they just popped down. Good luck.

Matt

 

[dannymax]

Warming them up with a hair dryer and a slight bit of di-elec. grease helps too.

 

[Fire-medic]

I did a post about my method awhile-ago. With the bike on its centerstand, I straddle the bike and sit on the airbox and carb ass'y. You can usually feel them 'pop' down into position. A bit of water-soluble grease on the boots helps too. Make-sure things are lined-up before you do it. Easy-peasy.

 

[sdt354]

Mine have zippers on them now, they've gotten removed so many times, tuning in the past. +1 to some lube and heat, I like WD-40. I push them in place putting pressure on two at a time, . Switching corners as I go. Make sure the clamps are loose enough. Make sure they are seated all the way when done.

 

[wayne z]

OK thanks guys, yes I have the boots right and keyed to the manifolds. No way I can get my butt in there LOL. I will try the hairdryer and silicone grease and working a corner at a time, and maybe some hardwood levers, thanks.

 

[dannymax]

When you get one carb 'plugged in' tighten the clamp screws so it won't pop back out on you.

And/Or

A ratchet strap hooked to the frame rails and going over the carb tops is a big help sometimes also....once you have them fairly tight just push in on the straps going down to the frame.

 

[Toolman]

I silicone the carb bodies and rubber boots then i sit the carbs on their boots and cover with a clean rag. I then use a rummer handeled mallet and place the handle on the edge of a carb and tap with another hammer. side to side corner to corner whatever it takes. (no I'm not getting hammered) when done you should be able to see each carb seated completely in their boots. the tab on the bottom of each carb body should be touching the rubber boot.

hope this helps

 

[wayne z]

Thanks, great ideas, Ratchet strap and mallet block with lube should do it!

 

[m-cman]

I have done this many times and have never used brute force or prying. Just everything loose and angled correctly and push down on each corner a little at a time till you feel it pop in. BTW, I am not a heavyweight either. Only about 160 pounds... :biglaugh:

 

[wayne z]

Here's what I came up with. Pine sticks tapered some at the ends and blocks across each pair of carbs. Loosened the bottom clamps just for xtra resiliency and with some silicone lube they popped in very easily.

 

[alorio1]

Good news, I hope the air box install goes well, sometimes they can be a PITA...

 

[Fire-medic]

OK thanks guys, yes I have the boots right and keyed to the manifolds. No way I can get my butt in there LOL. I will try the hairdryer and silicone grease and working a corner at a time, and maybe some hardwood levers, thanks.

I'm 220 lb+ and w/the airbox on-top of the carbs, you can seat the carbs and the airbox by sitting on the airbox. Even if you are running Stage 7 pods, then just remove the airbox and install your pods.

But, whatever works for you. My mechanic friend uses the water-soluble jelly for all-kinds of things, wiring, seating tires onto wheels, anything where you need 'em to slide a bit.

 

[onspeed]

I have done this many times and have never used brute force or prying. Just everything loose and angled correctly and push down on each corner a little at a time till you feel it pop in. BTW, I am not a heavyweight either. Only about 160 pounds... :biglaugh:

Same. I usually put a rag so that I don't get rings on my hands from where I'm pushing down on the carb. It's usually easier if the rubber is warm, but even if I've had the carbs out for a few days I can still usually just seat them using my hand.

 

[ImCannibal]

Has anyone tried soaking old carb/airbox boots in Marvel's mystery oil to bring them back to life? I've used it on new rubber before to get things together that otherwise would have been a nightmare. I've also heard from a lot of old hotrod guys say that they've used it to maintain the brand new look on vintage tires on show cars as well as restore old rubber pieces rather than replacing them.

 

[Fire-medic]

Has anyone tried soaking old carb/airbox boots in Marvel's mystery oil to bring them back to life? I've used it on new rubber before to get things together that otherwise would have been a nightmare. I've also heard from a lot of old hotrod guys say that they've used it to maintain the brand new look on vintage tires on show cars as well as restore old rubber pieces rather than replacing them.

Somehow, oil and tires just don't go together, especially on bikes, and yes, I know tires are largely a rubber/petroleum product.

For non-road contact rubber pieces, maybe it softens the rubber by degrading it a bit. What is its life after that treatment? I previously had posted a MSDS sheet on Marvel Mystery Oil on the site in another topic. MMO was used for 'top-end lubrication' when cars wore carbs. You could fit an injector between the carb and the manifold, and once in awhile, top-off the bottle which fed it, under the hood.

 

[ImCannibal]

I know a guy with a vintage show ducati that has 60's tires on it (never seen pavement) that every 3 months or so gives them a wipe with mmo, and has been doing it since his dad bought the bike in the 60's (that's what he tells people)... The rubber still looks brand new.

 

[wayne z]

Might try this on my airbox boots

http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13477