Trouble installing solid motor mounts

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coffee_brake

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I got the Delrin motor mounts a long time ago, put in the front four and liked it. Now I am installing a set of Supertrapp slip-ons, so while the cans were off I thought I'd get the rear two motor mounts replaced with the last two Delrins.

Can't do it. I don't know what it's hanging up on, the front mounts are all loose or removed so the motor can pivot, but when I jack up the rear, I still lack an inch of clearance when the motor stops moving in the frame, and the whole bike lifts up.

Do the headers really have to come off? I don't have a tool that fits in the inside rear stud nuts, the collars on the headers (even with the clamp off) are too wide. When the motor is jacked up as far as it will go, I still have clearance at the headers anyway, I think they are not what's hindering it.

What else could be holding it up? The instructions say remove the swingarm but I really don't see why I should....anybody else been here recently?
 
To get the two inside head bolts I used a 2.5"-3" cut off section of (8 or10 I think?)mm allen wrench and used it in a closed end ratchet wrench to remove and reinstall. There was a picture posted of the said tool somewhere, give me a min to look.
 
When i did mine ( I used the aluminum ones from the Yamaha Venture) I had the same problem. Would up being the U-joint was hitting the under side of my gas tank. I saw that I had to remove the swingarm otherwise it hits the under side of the gas tank. I loosened up the tank and moved it. If I was going to do it again, I'd remove the 3 bolts that hold the middle drive gear and remove it totally. When done, just put it back into the same position.

The gas tank move was more 'un-technical' but now I know how to remove the middle drive gear, I'd think that was the easier route. Only 3 bolts to pull. I don't think it could be done with the swingarm installed. Check if that's what's hitting. When you move the motor up, it will lift the swingarm with the motor and all. If you don't want to remove the arm, then move the gas tank.

Vinnie
 
Ah, OK. I only have on 8mm but I can get another cheap one to cut on.
So the headers DO have to come loose?
I haven't gotten closer to the Ujoint, I bet that might be hitting too. thanks for the heads-up on how to get around it, you probably saved a lot of effort there.

Do I need new exhaust gaskets? the old ones are still in the stock cans. Where do I get them, Yamaha or aftermarket? Or can I peel out the old ones and use them if they don't fall apart?
 
The rear two gaskets stayed put when I installed my new exhaust. I just reached in there and felt the gasket to make sure it was still intact. They did not move at all on mine. The fronts came out easily when I was checking them, they went back in and worked perfectly. It's been a month and 1500 miles with no leaks. :thumbs up:
I'm sorry I cannot help with the motor mount issue, that's a future project.:eusa_dance:
 
There are some allen sockets out there that will make the job much easier. I found a set on Ebay for 25.00 + shipping. You could probably get them for less at Napa. You'll need the 8mm or 5/16 allen. I suggest the deep, ball tipped ones as they can be trimmed to the perfect length and will work on an angle.
http://cgi.ebay.com/6-pc-3-8-ALLEN-...|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50#ebayphotohosting

As for removing the swingarm, it's really not that big a deal. Hardest part is setting the torque on the swingarm bearings. Very touchy and very important to get it right. But if you do, you'll find plenty of room to lift motor.

Good luck,
Firewrench
 

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OK thanks for that last post, I was at Deal's Gap on the Kawasaki all last week camping with a bunch of other Concours owners. I left the poor Vmax up on jack stands until today, when I removed the swingarm and poof the last two motor mounts came out easily. Now I'm just putting it all back together.
So....how do I check the swingarm bearings? Or with 33k miles, should I just replace them? I don't know what to look for with a swingarm bearing.
Is there a trick to torquing them to spec?
 
mine torqued pretty easy to spec, but i just checked them. the key it seems is just making a marker spot on the RH side so u can tell if it moves. it didn't for me when i put the socket over it.
 
Wipe them down with a clean rag and look for pitting or galling or flat spots. Probably won't find any. Dab of good waterproof grease and put her back together finger tight. Now tighten the left side to 72 ft lbs. Now turn the right side out then back in till it just touches the collar then torque to 4.3 ft lbs. Make a match mark with a sharpie or something wide enough to see once you install the lock nut. Install the lock nut and torque to 72 ft lbs and check your match mark. If it moved, loosen everything back up on the right side and do it again. Once you have the lock nut torqued and the match mark is aligned, bend the lock tab and your done. Took me about 20 minutes to set it up the first time. You'll find that if you remove the final drive from the swingarm, it's a lot easier to re-assemble the driveshaft to coupler. Use Yama-bond 4 or other non-hardening sealer on the flange when you bolt the final back onto the swingarm. Piece of cake.
Good luck
 
OK thanks, that's very clear.

There are already a couple of marks on the pins, now I know why. This has been done before to this bike. The movement of the bearings feels OK, I'll clean it all up and check like ya'll said and I think it will be fine. The torque process sounds simple enough, can do.

Thanks again!
 
How on God's green earth are you people putting the final drive shaft back in?

The fitting on the universal just flops down and I cannot align it with the shaft, which must be in the swingarm when assembled.

What am I missing? I can't get it the universal on the shaft no matter what I try!
 
How on God's green earth are you people putting the final drive shaft back in?

The fitting on the universal just flops down and I cannot align it with the shaft, which must be in the swingarm when assembled.

What am I missing? I can't get it the universal on the shaft no matter what I try!

Isn't there a site hole with a plug that you pop out and then use on the swing arm.
 
Yeah, that site hole is a real pain to reinstall afterwards though, I reached through the rubber bellows with a coat hanger and hooked the floppy end and lifted it, I was able to give it a good reach around to get the shaft in but two people would make it easier.
 
Same here firewrench,...I used a piece of lock wire down thru the inspection hole just above the u-joint to help hold the coupling on the u-joint ,..so I was able to engage the splines on the shaft.
2 peeps with some patients would be better for this ,...
 
You know what is crazy, I have seen Sean do this twice in a row without any issues. He just lined it up and pushed it in. That dude is crazy talented.
 
I was able to give it a good reach around to get the shaft in but two people would make it easier.

.....for a moment there I thought I logged onto a porn site.
 
Yeah, that site hole is a real pain to reinstall afterwards though, I reached through the rubber bellows with a coat hanger and hooked the floppy end and lifted it, I was able to give it a good reach around to get the shaft in but two people would make it easier.

Ummm....well now....that motorcycle can wait. I need some alone time.



:biglaugh:


OK I'll enlist the hubby for cheap labor again and try it with some wire to help hold the, ahem, floppy part.

Typical of a man--those damn shaft models are more trouble!

Thanks folks, really. I may yet ride the Vmax on my birthday, off to the garage!
 
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