Universal joint question

[Sharky]

Is it easy to remove the circlip and bearing/pin so as to separate the UJ ?

I need to do this so I can put a spindle through to set up the fjr arm.
From reading on here I see undoing the yoke securing nut is a hard job unless the yoke is separated.
With half the UJ gone I'd have enough room.

 

[one2dmax]

Only time I have ever taken them apart was when I didn't want to and it broke itself apart.

 

[[email protected]]

Do yourself a favor and pull the entire output shaft. Its held in with 3 bolts. Be sure to loosen the 2 pinch bolts on either side of the block before you attempt to pull the assembly. Watch for the shims between the engine block and out shaft assembly. Once the output shaft is loose from the block, they slide right out. The shims are half circles, a left and a right make a pair. Seems to be common to find 2 or 3 pairs of shims. Its nothing difficult, just make sure the left and right shim stacks are the same thickness before reassembly.

It only takes a few minutes to do this and will make it much easier to disassemble the u joint.

Once you pull the unit, mount it in a vise. The circlips on the u-joint come off pretty easily. Only hard part is they tend to spin in the groove. After the circlips are out you will need to press both bearing caps out of the yoke in order to remove the u-joint body.

If you intend to loosen the output shaft nut, now is the time. When you put the nut back on, use locktite and take your time. The nut needs to be tight enough to remove freeplay in the yoke/shaft but, you still want it to turn smoothly without a lot of effort. Take note of the existing freeplay and get a feel for how it turns before you remove the nut. If you make it too tight you will have to remove the nut, push the shaft out of the aluminum carrier, and replace the collapsible collar. They are cheap but it sucks waiting for parts. Not that this ever happened to me.

 

[Sharky]

Thanks mate....that was easier than expected....
I was remembering the horror tales of people pulling apart xs1100 transfer cases...thought it best to check

 

[gamorg02]

helped my brother with this over the winter, mike is right on. we even bought an in lbs beam type torque wrench to set the tightness right. it was right on spec tho thankfully.

 

[davesax36]

I think I'm going to pull the whole thing out again and try to get the circlips off so I can replace this oil seal the right way. I really don't feel like going through this again. I can not generate enough torque with my 22mm combo wrench to loosen the nut when it's in the bike.

Very frustrating.

 

[davesax36]

Ok. I took off the circlips that should release the driveshaft part of the u-joint. How do I press out the next pieces?

 

[Hellion]

Two sockets one will fit the cap and be pushed into the joint. The other will be large enough to let the cap slide into. You will put the sockets on opposite sides of the joint and use the vice to push the caps out. Then tilt the joint and take it out.


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[adambweird]

Two sockets one will fit the cap and be pushed into the joint. The other will be large enough to let the cap slide into. You will put the sockets on opposite sides of the joint and use the vice to push the caps out. Then tilt the joint and take it out.


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If you dont have a vise (or have a broken vise...) a hammer will work just fine. I prefer a 5 lb blacksmith hammer, pounds it out a lil bit easier :biglaugh:

 

[sdt354]

I use a lead hammer and tap the yoke while holding pressure on the the u joint. It's the way I was taught. Ever see a lead hammer at a yard sale, grab it. They are great. Soft and heavy.

 

[davesax36]

I pressed them out with a nut, my vice, and the 22mm wrench I was trying to use to undo the nut. Is that thing reverse threaded or something? Mine's barely peened on there and it won't move even with a 1/2" impact gun. I'm losing my mind here.

 

[[email protected]]

No, it doesn't have reverse threads. Just tight as hell. Clamp the yoke in a vise and put a big breaker bar on there and cheater pipe if needed.

 

[dodgediesel59]

Im not sure if they are loc-tited from the factory, but if so just a little heat on the nut would help too.

 

[davesax36]

I'll heat it in the morning before I give up and take it to a shop. Didn't even think of that.

 

[davesax36]

Torch, wrench, 1/2" impact.... nothing. I'm taking it to somebody before I screw up a more important part. Maybe i need a deeper/better vice and a heavier bench or something. I pulled on that wrench so hard I moved my bench.


Went to my buddy's shop. Hit it with his impact gun and it zipped right off. I guess maybe it's time for a new compressor...

 

[dodgediesel59]

Well at least you got it apart so you can move on!

 

[davesax36]

Funny you should say that... Now I can't yank the seal out. Is there a secret handshake? Some hidden clip I can't find? This is so aggravating. It also makes me look/feel like an idiot.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

You will destroy it to remove it. Pry it out. Be careful when installing the new one as its better to use a sleeve like on bearings.

 

[davesax36]

That's what I thought. OK, I'll keep at it.

 

[davesax36]

I WON!!!! No more me bugging everyone with questions about how I'm going to screw this up. Got the new seal in and the nut as tight as I'm willing to go (69 ft lbs- per the manual). The new seal looks good. I'll try it out tomorrow. Thanks for the help on this one, guys.