V boost click on an 85

[ZuminaZX]

Should the Vboost system cycle when the key is turned on an 85? I don't remember if my 92 did, but my 98 does.

 

[maleko89]

Yes. If not, take the left scoop off and wiggle the wires coming to/from that round connector. My dad's '86 is activing up, the grommet where the wires go into the vboost controller box was popping out and allowing moisture and dirt to get in there.

Mark
#1098

 

[ZuminaZX]

Is that the only source of problems? I'll post a pic of how the cable setup looks. Does the solenoid have a fuse?

 

[maleko89]

Yep, the controller is the only problem I've ever heard about. The motor, cables and butterflies completes the system and they rarely if ever go bad.

There isn't a fuse for vboost.

Mark
#1098

 

[ZuminaZX]

I played around with the connector, still nothing. The connector looked clean inside as well. Hmmmm.

 

[ZuminaZX]

well, it magically started to work for a little while, then it stopped. Playing with the connector doesn't do anything.....hmm

 

[Bill Seward]

How's the battery voltage? Mine cycles intermittently unless the battery is in a good state of charge...

Got the original regulator/rectifier unit?
Upgrading to a one from a '96 or newer does wonders for the electrical health of the Max! Electrosport also sells a good one cheaper - motorcycle supermarket is the place to go. I just installed one - best $72.00 I ever spent!

 

[Buster Hymen]

well, it magically started to work for a little while, then it stopped. Playing with the connector doesn't do anything.....hmm

The solder joints in the controller are subject to breaking from vibration. I believe it is from poor cold soldering. Here's a cut and paste from one of the lists on how to look for this issue:

I ran into problems with the controller on my 85. It would activate
or deactivate Vboost whenever it felt like it. Sometimes would idle
fine, other times lumpy (cuz boost was open). Found the problem to
be in the controller under the left scoop. A broken or cold solder
joint. I carefully peeled the potting from the board and heated
the connections with a soldering iron. How I found it was to turn
the key on and lightly flex the pc board. That caused the vboost
motor to do the same things you are describing (jitters).

Also, if that doesn't work, this site http://www.micromachines.ca/ sells "replacements".

 

[Waylander]

The solder joints in the controller are subject to breaking from vibration. I believe it is from poor cold soldering. Here's a cut and paste from one of the lists on how to look for this issue:

I ran into problems with the controller on my 85. It would activate
or deactivate Vboost whenever it felt like it. Sometimes would idle
fine, other times lumpy (cuz boost was open). Found the problem to
be in the controller under the left scoop. A broken or cold solder
joint. I carefully peeled the potting from the board and heated
the connections with a soldering iron. How I found it was to turn
the key on and lightly flex the pc board. That caused the vboost
motor to do the same things you are describing (jitters).

Also, if that doesn't work, this site http://www.micromachines.ca/ sells "replacements".

Thanks for that link. their system actually sounds better than the Z-boost or T-boost or any of the other ones I've been looking at.