V boost control question

[42Below]

Gidday.

I got my bike a few months ago. I havent had a chance to ride it much as the forks puked oil on the way home and and since repaired Ive been busy.

I was told by the seller it had the vboost set to come in at 3000rpm. This feels right as it picks up a fair bit at 3k.
I looked here on vboost threads but didnt find what i wanted,

At 6k it just pulls with no extra power like normal ones do.

To be honest I expected more from the hype but I have owned a ZZR1100 previously so I guess I expect my helmet to squash my nose.
Its quick, just not life changing quick. Maybe it needs something.
It has KnN, stock headers with Over cans and Im told a stage 1 kit.

I checked the vboost module and its stock, I checked images here and the net.
Im an ex car mechanic so happy to do my own work as Im able. Me and sparks never got along, I dont trust that which I cant see!

How else do you regulate the vboost? I thought a controller in place of the stock module was the way - or an Ignitek module as I have read here.

The system cycles when the ignition is switched on like they are meant to. Can you free rev it and watch the servo operate to verify whats going on or does it need to be in gear?

Ta.

 

[EAGLEPI]

You can buy a device that makes the V-Boost always on. It's been almost 7 years since I owned a gen 1 so I forget the name of them. if that is what you might want I am sure someone will reply with the options.

 

[Fire-medic]

No need to waste $ on 'a device that makes the V Boost always on.'

Locate the round electrical plug under the left air horn/scoop. This is the V Boost motor. Turn on the ignition. When the V Boost cycles, unplug the round plug. Now your V Boost will always be open.

You should take a look at your 'Stage 1' needles and compare them to the pics of needles from various kits in the carburation tech section. Stage 7 Dynojet, Factory Pro, or the Morley Muscle jet kit, along with a full aftermarket exhaust, will make you about 10% more RWHP when dialed-in.

Stage 1 is generally considered to be a waste of $.

 

[EAGLEPI]

No need to waste $ on 'a device that makes the V Boost always on.'

Locate the round electrical plug under the left air horn/scoop. This is the V Boost motor. Turn on the ignition. When the V Boost cycles, unplug the round plug. Now your V Boost will always be open.

You should take a look at your 'Stage 1' needles and compare them to the pics of needles from various kits in the carburation tech section. Stage 7 Dynojet, Factory Pro, or the Morley Muscle jet kit, along with a full aftermarket exhaust, will make you about 10% more RWHP when dialed-in.

Stage 1 is generally considered to be a waste of $.

+1 one I knew that too but forgot it... getting old sucks

 

[[email protected]]

If the seller says the v-boost is set to come on at 3000 RPM, did he install a T-boost switch or maybe a Sasy controller?

T-Boost:http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/TBoost.htm
Sasy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNQYoIbnr1o

 

[42Below]

Some light reading and another look inn the wiring tells me it has a Tboost wiring modification.
I suss out putting it back to stock for the 6k hit and look at my needles. The tamper proof screw is gone and an allen head is in place so i assume the carbs have been played with.
The air box stinks of gas (worse than any other bike Ivehad) so I guess its the tboost buggering up the low rev fueling like the page I read said it would.

http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/TBoost.htm

 

[MaxMidnight]

With T Boost (the butterflies opening at 3K) you won't get the same pull as if they were opening at 6K.
V Boost gives you the benefit of a smaller bore carburettor (to maximise air speed through the venturi) and as the revs rise and it is no longer able to flow sufficient air, the V Boost butterflies open and start to pull air from two carbs. This effectively increases the bore diameter of the carb.

Opening the V Boost butterflies at 3K means that the airspeed will drop through the venturi, the fuel will not atomise as well thus power will drop.

I guess it is a matter of taste but (IMHO) the 3K opening diminishes the character of the engine.
Having had both I know which I prefer.

 

[EAGLEPI]

Some light reading and another look inn the wiring tells me it has a Tboost wiring modification.
I suss out putting it back to stock for the 6k hit and look at my needles. The tamper proof screw is gone and an allen head is in place so i assume the carbs have been played with.
The air box stinks of gas (worse than any other bike Ivehad) so I guess its the tboost buggering up the low rev fueling like the page I read said it would.

http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/TBoost.htm

I'm assuming this is your first Vmax, I am sorry if I am wrong. If I am right and you want the power that the Vmax is known for I highly suggest doing what Fire-medic suggested.

There are a few V-Boost devices that let you control when you want the V-Boost to open. I always found on my Gen'1's that I'd be cruising along and all of a sudden the V-Boost would kick in and it sometimes was a pain in the butt for me. I tried T-Boost and sasy which has a lot more features but is pricey.

Now you want power, do as Fire-medic said by watching the V-boost open and when it is full open disconnect the v-Boost connector, once again Fire-medic explained in better detail than I can but when you have V-Boost all the time you will never go back to the way it works stock. JUST MY OPINION

Last Gen 1 I had was a 2007 and I had full V-Boost all the time by doing what Fire-medic said to do and when I cranked the throttle from a stop the damn Vmax almost hops.

In the end you have to decide which is best for what you want.

 

[Eugene Brad]

I have the sasy on my 05, there when i bought it, and it is pretty cool although I typically run it as stock. Not a fan of the lower rev v boost in city traffic and what not. But it's nice to be able to adjust. 4500 rpm is a nice inbetween.

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

 

[caseyjones955]

No need to waste $ on 'a device that makes the V Boost always on.'

Locate the round electrical plug under the left air horn/scoop. This is the V Boost motor. Turn on the ignition. When the V Boost cycles, unplug the round plug. Now your V Boost will always be open.

You should take a look at your 'Stage 1' needles and compare them to the pics of needles from various kits in the carburation tech section. Stage 7 Dynojet, Factory Pro, or the Morley Muscle jet kit, along with a full aftermarket exhaust, will make you about 10% more RWHP when dialed-in.

Stage 1 is generally considered to be a waste of $.

I will have to agree on the stage 1 kit. If it was installed according to the directions its almost sure to be rich. I got mine with Kerker, K&N drop in and stg 1 and fought a rich condition until I ditched the whole stg 1 kit. Like you I was underwhelmed by the top end performance. My vbbost has always been stock and it was quick but I felt it did not live up to the hype.

My current setup is stock jets throughout except mains are 147.5, needles are stg 7. The PO intalled the stage one PAJ jet behind the diaphragm exacerbating the rich condition, I put the stock jets back there. I did drill the slides and go with stg 1 springs (same as stage 7 springs) and added Morleys filter lid and other parts from his Muscle Jet kit. Of course synch and dial in. Now I dont have the fuel stink all the time, i get 40+ mpg if im gentle and when vboost opens up at the factory 6k rpm she gets clearly more angry then whan it was stage 1 K&N. Of course it wont beat a properly ridden R1 but I'm definitely getting the full vmax experience now and its awesome amounts of fun. Vboost at 6k feels just right since I got her setup, I can now say she flat hauls ass.

I forgot to mention Im at about 3300' with this setup so your altitude might effect what works.

 

[Fire-medic]

I ageree w/caseyjones955 about the 147.5 mains, I'm @ sea level and use this set of jets to good effect. I also have the separate air pods, actually, the whole Dynojet Stage 7, not the stage 1. I also have a full UFO exhaust, a 4/1 w/a custom canister to make it quiet, much better than running a noisy UFO (barely) 'muffler.' The drilled slides and Stage 7 slide springs allow quicker response to throttle inputs and this is what's needed since the carbs are constant-velocity, and there is no physical cable connecting the slides to the throttle cables, as on bikes of yore, which had throttle cables attached to the slides. My, isn't fuel injection keen? It eliminates all of this, and a speed density system will make allowances for tuning.

 

[42Below]

Thanks for all the info.
Yes its my first Vmax.

Im at sea level but have mountains in my back yard so I cover a range of elevations.

Im wondering if Ill just put a muscle kit in. I dont have time for ongoing tuning with work and family.
I know a full exhaust is ideal but wont be happening any time soon.

Doesnt the constant open make it a dog to ride?

 

[Fire-medic]

I prefer the VBoost functioning as the factory intended. I have the Stage 7 and still retain VBoost. In the Stage 7 directions, they eliminate the VBoost butterflies & replace them w/tubing. You don't need to do this, with proper tuning.

Sean Morley's Muscle Kit has been used by many customers and has good reviews. He will also be able to answer your questions during the installation process. I think he would tell you that to get the benefit out of the system, both intake and exhaust need to be done. That means, a full (exhaust headers and muffler can) known-quality exhaust system. If you aren't planning to do both, I suggest just running stock, until you are ready to take the plunge.

 

[EAGLEPI]

Thanks for all the info.
Yes its my first Vmax.

Im at sea level but have mountains in my back yard so I cover a range of elevations.

Im wondering if Ill just put a muscle kit in. I dont have time for ongoing tuning with work and family.
I know a full exhaust is ideal but wont be happening any time soon.

Doesnt the constant open make it a dog to ride?

I would look into the Morley muscle kit, Once I removed my carbs and sent them to Sean and he installed the kit tested it on one of his Vmax's and when I installed it it took just minor adjustment that Sean walked me through. I'm not sure if Sean has the time to do all that now but always goes above and beyond to make his customers happy.

One thing I did to my 92 Vmax was buy a 18" 3/8 drill bit and I drilled 5 or 6 holes
at even distances between the rivets in the stock pipes. It sounded better and I felt it gave me more pep. It may not have been the smartest thing to do but for me it worked ok.. a cheap way of getting a better sound and I think performance.

I would check with the experts in this forum before doing that ,there may be more cons than pros. Just a suggestion I tried once and it saved me money on a new exhaust system

 

[[email protected]]

Muscle jet kit isn't intended to work well with stock exhaust

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[caseyjones955]

I spent a lot of time tuning and learning, trial and error. If I had to do it over again I would just spend the scratch and get the Morley kit first and save time. Its money well spent. As mentioned the stock downpipes restrict enough that you wont be able to reap the benifets of a jet kit and slip ons wont hellp.

I just went back and reread, my guess is if your not planning on buying a full exhaust you can keep the K&N and just roll back the jetting from stage one and find some main jets to give you the best top end, probably a little smaller than stock, and after that play around with the needle clip position until its happy. I speculate that even just that will give you back a good bit of snap.

I rode around the hills with no scoops and faux tank and kept stopping to play with shims and clip positions until it was delivering the most responsive midrange. Do you have the stock jets and needles still? The PO of mine included the stage 1 box with all the stock parts he pulled off.

 

[42Below]

Yeah Ill go through it after correcting the tboost and see where Im at - and make notes.

I can do a test and tune ride after that.

Ill look ito headers to go with the Over cans but they dont look cheap. I can weld but man thats some cutting and welding to make headers to fit and no guarantee they will flow any good.

 

[42Below]

I ended up wiring in a switch as per the vmax outlaw hot to guide as mine didnt have one. I hid it under the scoop as I wont need to play with it often.

I also whipped a needle out to find............... a stock needle. Dammit. KnN filter already in.
Ill ride her tomorrow and see how it goes with the vboost stock. Ill research here what to do with stock needles and stock headers with cans.

It sure was gassy in the carb. I havent had a carb apart for awhile but dont remember seeing liquid fuel around the slide like that in the past.

 

[42Below]

6 k hit is the sh*t !!
I get Vmax now.

I have been reading up here and see a lot of people use stock needles to good effect.
Ill pull the carbs when I can and check what mains I have. I live basically at sea level but have mountains for a back yard so hard to tune for elevation. Yeah its pretty here!

 

[Traumahawk]

Yep, leave the stock needles. A Lot of people make the mistake of trying to put more fuel to a Vmax. They will swap out needles, go bigger on the jets, and then wonder why the bike just doesnt feel right. They dont realize that the Vmax was slightly rich from the start....so more fuel, will make it fall on its face.

As a general rule, go leaner on the main jets.....to 150 mains, instead of the stock 152.5's.

People also dont realize that the Vboost was designed to open up at 6K, and there has been proof (dyno proof) that you lose hp with the Vboost coming on too early.