v boost works whenever

[merc49]

I bought a 91 that had sat for a while.got it running great 18000 miles.now the vboost cycles every now and then.it always cycles when i tap on the control box, but dont know if it works right while riding.removing the side cover is getting old.would it hurt anything if i unplug the vboost when its open.what problems will i get.the bike is stock.i read somewhere that its better to leave it open and add k&n filters and supertraps.im going to do a stage 7 kit later but want to ride now.

 

[marsmax85]

Personally I would leave it off ( closed) till you get stage 7 and other mods lined to install

 

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You can run vboost open all the time if you want. The bike will idle differently and may run a bit off at super low rpm and throttle inputs without any additional tuning but, it will work.

Its not advisable to install pod filters without air correctors. Not advisable to install pod filters and air correctors unless you are running a full after market exhaust. Individual K&N filters and super trap slip ons will be of no help.

You can buy a double pole, double throw switch and manually turn the vboost on and off. The switch will eliminate the vboost controller entirely. That is the setup I am currently using. The switch was around $10 IIRC.

I pulled power to the switch from the square connector under the left scoop. The is the same power source for the OEM vboost controller. I just installed some male spades on some new wire and plugged it in. I installed a fuse on the +12 wire just in case my wiring or switch goes bad.


I ran the + and - wires from the square connector to one side of my switch. I ran little jumpers to the other side of the switch, and crossed the wires to reverse polarity. Output to the servo comes from the center pins on the switch. They plug into the round connector under the left scoop that goes to the servo motor. I don't remember what color the wires were but here is a picture of where they plug in. I modified some bullet connectors to plug in.


I made up a little bracket and attached it to the fuel pump and faux tank release assembly. The switch sits right above the rear cylinder head. My wiring run from the electrical panel behind the scoop, up against the frame rail to the switch. Once the scoop and faux tank are on the bike, all you can see is the switch. It was a temp install that's been on the bike 2 years now :biglaugh:

 

[lawman504]

I'm having kind of the same problem. It is trying to cycle but it just wont. It will close fine but when it tries to open, its like it don't have enough ass. I don't think its the servo motor itself because it is doing it with two different motors. Does anyone know if there is a certain wire or something that is not letting get enough juice maybe. Or any other suggestions?? Also, I'm on my second control box, If that is the problem, how can I "test" that?

 

[lawman504]

I found how to test the control box. Servo works like it should. It definitely is somewhere between the control box and the motor. Anything else it could be other than the control box.?

 

[lawman504]

It was definitely the box. Problem solved with some makeshift parts. haha

 

[bazwell]

Ine way to fix a dodgey controller is to install the programmable ignition which can be purchased from Morleys Muscle.
I had 2 controllers die on me before I found out I could do away with the controller and use a programmable box.
You also get a rev limiter and other cool features.

 

[lawman504]

Awesome. Im kinda on a tight budget right now though because of Christmas and im trying to save money to buy a zero turn mower. Are those things expensive? Sounds like it.

 

[Traumahawk]

The ignitech is a great unit....I have one. You can always email Sean and see what the going rate is.

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