Vboost 3k / 6k switch

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jbraz7

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I recentyl purchased a 1990 Vmax. The previous owner installed a toggle switch which he said was the vboost 3k/off/6k switch its a 3 position switch. However, its just dangling there and I want to mount up on the handle bars and make it look nice and label the switch positions but I cant figure out which way on the switch is 3k and which way is 6k I know the middle turns it off but I can't figure out the other two. The bike isnt street legal yet and I live in a neighborhood and cant really punch it to feel which switch position is which. My question is there another way to tell other than ride it?
 
If bike runs you can put switch one way rev it just past 3000 and look at vboost from right side watch mech move...if not switch switch over try again......can also confirm it at just past 6000 if the 3000 happens to fast
 
Be careful about over-revving, our connecting rod/cank asseemblies don't like that! Especially under no-load, it's easy to do that. What you should be looking for is the butterfly valve mechanism below the carbs beginning to open at whatever rpm.
 
not if its tuned for such.

Hmmmm... makes me wonder if it would be possible to slow the initial opening and make it start around 5k or so. Maybe make it so the power surge is a little less abrupt.

I was also thinking that a 2nd V-boost module could be used to control butterfly valves in the exhaust, sort of on a lot of modern sportbikes. To give restriction down low, but opened up wide for when your running hard.

Damn... This is why someone needs to come up with a fully working EFI setup!
 
Then you can also have variable-inlet length as some bikes and cars have, "get all-three!" Long for lower-rpm torque, short for top-end pow-ah! Hey, if it's good for F1, we should get it too.

VBoost, variable length intake, gated exhaust! I think that electronic fuel management would make those three a must, to maximize your results.

Look on youtube for some of the videos showing bench-testing of the F1 engines where the exhausts are incandescent-red from heat, and the engine is turning up-to 15,000 rpm! Here's one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OS_k0V8Bvw This one doesn't have to turn 15K. Pretty-cool to sit in the seat and shift it like that. Watch the vapor cloud rise-up out of the intakes as the revs rise. Now they have programs to run an entire race by computer to test longevity, but I'd still want to take a turn like the engineer. The simulated speed he turns is 225 mph. And another: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxTBfU9mIfg Toyota F1 at a claimed 20K! And a Honda: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWSt4CDNvgQ

Hmmmm... makes me wonder if it would be possible to slow the initial opening and make it start around 5k or so. Maybe make it so the power surge is a little less abrupt.

I was also thinking that a 2nd V-boost module could be used to control butterfly valves in the exhaust, sort of on a lot of modern sportbikes. To give restriction down low, but opened up wide for when your running hard.

Damn... This is why someone needs to come up with a fully working EFI setup!
 
Awesome.......dot even need the car to have fun, that first video lol
 
Hmmmm... makes me wonder if it would be possible to slow the initial opening and make it start around 5k or so. Maybe make it so the power surge is a little less abrupt.

I was also thinking that a 2nd V-boost module could be used to control butterfly valves in the exhaust, sort of on a lot of modern sportbikes. To give restriction down low, but opened up wide for when your running hard.

Damn... This is why someone needs to come up with a fully working EFI setup!

there are working EFI setups, even bolt on, learning ones. be prepared to spend more than your bike is worth tho. think $6k-$8k.

mine was tuned for vboost all the time but i think my valve adjust made the low end too rich. turning it to 3k fixed that issue and it runs right again. whe i can get my hands on an afr gauge or back at the dyno shop i'll have them set it again for always on.
 
there are working EFI setups, even bolt on, learning ones. be prepared to spend more than your bike is worth tho. think $6k-$8k.

mine was tuned for vboost all the time but i think my valve adjust made the low end too rich. turning it to 3k fixed that issue and it runs right again. whe i can get my hands on an afr gauge or back at the dyno shop i'll have them set it again for always on.

Give me the right bike, and I am more than willing to drop double it's value into it to make it how I want it.
 
Give me the right bike, and I am more than willing to drop double it's value into it to make it how I want it.

to each their own man. if i had another $6-$8k i'd keep my carbs and get another bike. probably a 2006-2009 triumph s3. and it has injection.

but thats my thoughts!
 
I thought the SASY (sp?) unit had adjustable v-boost along with other features...
 
Give me the right bike, and I am more than willing to drop double it's value into it to make it how I want it.

+1 if I'm never going to sell it then its worth it to me to make it exactly how I want.. You can't put a price tag on that..

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