VBoost Control Cable Lock Bolt

[user 773]

Seems my lack of BOOST is due to a missing lock bolt on the adjustment slide. :bang head:

Anyone know the size of that little bugger?

Home Depot is waiting...

 

[maleko89]

There's an appendix in the service manual with a bunch of different bolt sizes that are used. I'll check when I get home from work.

Mark
#1098

 

[user 773]

I think I have bigger problems than a $.20 bolt...

I believe either my Vbost control module or the servo motor are bad... While testing the cycle at "run" I was not getting a consistent, full cycle.... Then, even without the lock bolt, the srvo cycled full open and stuck there (bike has not been started at this point). Tuned off the key and put the run switch to "stop".

Turned the key back on and hit "run" with a slight tug on the VBoost cable by the servo motor then a slow, jerky open/close kind of action, with the VBoost now stuck about half way open..... The VBoost mechanical all looks clean and does not appear to be binding in any way....

It appears that either the servo is not responding to the control unit, or the control unit is sending bad signals....

Easy way to test for either of these??????

 

[shawn kloker]

My guess would be the controller.I have never heard of a servo going bad.

The controllers have some issues with the solder joints needing resoldered.Right where the wires from the pigtail are soldered to the board.

 

[user 773]

Thought about that, but wasn't sure how to get all the goo off of the circut board to get to the solder points...

Suggestions?

 

[Buster Hymen]

I think I have bigger problems than a $.20 bolt...

I believe either my Vbost control module or the servo motor are bad... While testing the cycle at "run" I was not getting a consistent, full cycle.... Then, even without the lock bolt, the srvo cycled full open and stuck there (bike has not been started at this point). Tuned off the key and put the run switch to "stop".

Turned the key back on and hit "run" with a slight tug on the VBoost cable by the servo motor then a slow, jerky open/close kind of action, with the VBoost now stuck about half way open..... The VBoost mechanical all looks clean and does not appear to be binding in any way....

It appears that either the servo is not responding to the control unit, or the control unit is sending bad signals....

Easy way to test for either of these??????

The servo motor runs off 12 volts so test it with a 12 volt source. Reverse the source and it should go the other way. One of the problems with controller is the cable that plugs into that feeds the servo. It can get corroded. Check that connection. If it is OK, then try flexing the controller a bit and see if the VBoost cycles correctly. If it does, this usually means bad solder joints, so you'll have to peel off the resin that covers the board and resolder the joints.

 

[user 773]

Of course, it may be that I am a fucking idiot, too.... :rofl_200:

After all my testing and cycling of the servo last night, I threw the charger on the bike and went to bed.

Got up this morning (battery fully charged) and the servo cycles every time perfectly. :bang head: Bike fired right up and hummed @ 1000 RPM without choke, coaxing, or garage language. (re-adjusted the VBoost control cable with full servo action) Rode to work this morning with a smile on my face...

Started this little quest looking for a charging problem, got distracted, spent the day chasing my tail... :hmmm:

One highlight to the process was that I took the time to resolder the crimp with a much hotter gun (to insure a full flow of solder through the crimp) and now show 13.9V at the battery running... Previously showed 12.4V.

Have I fixed the problem? Who knows... Still need to check stator...

ANYWAY, thanks to all who took the time to respond yesterday!

\m/ DS

 

[shawn kloker]

Next you'll want to go to an Odysee pc 680 battery.

 

[user 773]

Best source? Resonable price?