Veronica goes VROOM!

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bazwell

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After a long long time, Veronica goes VROOM again. :biglaugh:

Thanks to all the people on this forum for their parts and advise. You help has been invaluable, and is very much appreciated. Rock on! :punk:


After a test ride a few days ago I had to tighten a hose clamp, tweak the steering bearings a bit, put on the speedo and belly pan.
Today the vboost seems dodgey. Also the clutch pumped up and started to slip. Other than that, it is pretty much all better. Starts and runs better, Sounds better. Doesn't jump out of gear. Brakes are heaps better. More comfortable riding position. Handling feels better. It's all positive!

A search on "clutch freeplay" yielded one result, which was exactly what it needed for the clutch problem to be fixed! The miracle of vmaxforum!

So, here's what was done to the old tart. :biglaugh:

Pulled out motor, split crankcase, replaced 4 gears and all gearbox bearings.
Tidied the engine up a bit with a rattle can.
Solid engine mounts.
Bought a powdercoat gun and coated the removable engine casings.
Changed the fork seals and pc'd the forks and triple clamps.
Rebuilt some Ducati 916 calipers with new seals, and fitted with adaptors.
Chinese wave rotors front and rear.
Cleaned up rear caliper and pc'd along with brake mounting and bar.
Changed wheel bearings.
Changed steering bearings.
Rebuilt front brake master cylinder, clutch master and slave.
Shiny new master cylinder lids.
New braided lines all round.
UFO drag bars and XV250 handlebar risers.
"New" mirrors from an '05 model, which I can't see anything out of! (Needs bar end mirrors...)
Wiring loom stripped. All earth wires replaced with thicker wires. Tboost built into loom. "Crimp fix". Direct connection of r/r to battery with big fat wires and an inline fuse (in addition to keeping original charge wires). Loom wrapped in Mopar cloth tape.
AGM battery.
COP's fitted.
Starter clutch fixed.
NOS old style Barnett clutch, EBC frictions with 1/2 plate removed.
Rebuilt and pc'd water pump.
Spiegler LSL rearsets, pc'd to match forks.
Vintage aftermarket Harley indicators, Model A tail light, aftermarket "stretched" headlight (same size as std). Clamp on front indicators mounts to suit Harley 41mm forks, with .5mm plastic shim acting as a gasket over air holes. (Air tube removed, will get holes welded later.)
Cheap chinese grips and footpegs. (Footpegs have to be modded for LSL rearsets.)
Prez's radiator shrouds (bought from Kyle.)
Superbrace from Bill K. (Original brace had 4 cracks, and one corner fell off in the bead blaster!!)
Most bolts replaced with stainless.
Assorted bits and bobs done here and there, too many to list.


I've got good spare sidecovers from texas ss tornado waiting for powdercoat, an all black Marks 4-2 on the way, programmable TCI coming soon from Dingy, and I'll be ordering a Morleys jet kit once Mark gives me the bill (coz I'm constantly out of money).
I've got to sort out the vboost now, and look out for more teething problems. And then do some suspension stuff. And save some money for wheels.


And todays word of advise is DON'T use VHT paint. I did my front calipers and master cylinders in their brake caliper black, and baked them in the oven to specifications. Today when looking at my clutch master I saw the paint is already coming off. (see pic) I did this prior to ordering a powdercoat gun. That'll learn me.


At the end of the day, I'm just happy to be riding a vmax again! :biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:
Veronica vmax, she's my girl! :punk:
 

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Congratulations!!!:punk:

Sucks about the caliper paint though.
Did you use the cleaner and primer first? or just go straight to the paint.
 
Congratulations!!!:punk:

Sucks about the caliper paint though.
Did you use the cleaner and primer first? or just go straight to the paint.


Wet glass bead blasted, and washed with thinners. They say it goes on bare metal.
The paint is melting close to the cap. **** paint!
 
Wow, you've been busy! Nice work and well done.
 
Wet glass bead blasted, and washed with thinners. They say it goes on bare metal.
The paint is melting close to the cap. **** paint!

The reason I asked is; a friend of mine did the calipers and MC's on his virago and it turned out pretty good. He used the cleaner and the hi temp primer first, then sprayed the caliper paint.

On the plus side it will get you through until you PC them :clapping:
 
WOW Baz Vero loox amazing and what a lotta good work! You must feel great about it.

One question - to me it looks like your front tire is the wrong way round - check rotation arrow and tell me I'm dreaming?

Also sucks about the M/C, but then brake fluid is THE best paint stripper and even just a tiny lil' bit will eat into paint like we bite into a juicy burger.. PC has to be the way!

Can't wait to get back to Oz, take delivery of mine and getting together for a good ride! Mid April mate :)
 
Looks great Bazwell. I bet one of the biggest thrills was when you fired the beast for the first time.:punk::punk:. "IT'S ALIVE":punk::punk:
 
Very nice job Bro. I'm glad to hear the good news. Thanks for the heads up on the paint. I'd like to pc my calipers, but they need to be taken apart completely. The master, I?ll repaint. I'm not sure, all the trouble involved with the fluid level window is worth it to pc. Which sucks, because I can't keep paint on the masters long.
Steve-o
 
Wet glass bead blasted, and washed with thinners. They say it goes on bare metal.
The paint is melting close to the cap. **** paint!

That is happening probably because you must have a bad o-ring on the lid. Either bad or not properly seated and its leaking fluid on the paint.
 
That is happening probably because you must have a bad o-ring on the lid. Either bad or not properly seated and its leaking fluid on the paint.

You may have a great point here - I rattlecanned mine a couple of years ago without doing a very great amount of prep and it seemed to stay on quite well for the following year or so. I used the same M/C caps as Baz, too..
 
Very nice job Bro. I'm glad to hear the good news. Thanks for the heads up on the paint. I'd like to pc my calipers, but they need to be taken apart completely. The master, I?ll repaint. I'm not sure, all the trouble involved with the fluid level window is worth it to pc. Which sucks, because I can't keep paint on the masters long.
Steve-o


Oh, the frustration of the master cylinders!
I pulled the windows out, blasted the cylinders, painted them with the good stuff (supposedly) and then glued flimsy little glass windows in. Those little windows worried me, but they look really nice.

If I have to redo, I'm going to have to get a pair of old cylinders and PC straight over the original windows. I've still got the little tool I made to hone the cylinders, and I'll just swap over the new seals.

Either that, or I'll have to fit dome plugs instead of windows, and PC over them. The windows SUCK BALLS.
 
That is happening probably because you must have a bad o-ring on the lid. Either bad or not properly seated and its leaking fluid on the paint.

It got fluid on it somehow, but the paint is supposed to be resistant to brake fluid, especially when oven cured.
I'm thinking it's not.
 
One question - to me it looks like your front tire is the wrong way round - check rotation arrow and tell me I'm dreaming?

ha ha, you been in Oz too long already. "Tell him he's dreaming" - Darryl Kerrigan. :rofl_200:

Yep, you're dreaming. But I'll be honest and say I tried to put the wheel on back to front and wondered why the speedo drive was on the wrong side. I checked the arrow at that point. :biglaugh:
 
Yep, you're dreaming. But I'll be honest and say I tried to put the wheel on back to front and wondered why the speedo drive was on the wrong side. I checked the arrow at that point. :biglaugh:

Right ok phew lol.. That tire thread pattern just looked wrong to me!
 
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