Weird rear hub squealing

[Eric S.]

Today my rear tire locked up. Pretty certain it was the rear caliper but I may be wrong. Cleaned it up and flushed it out. This is without bleeding rear caliper and the pads are "free floating" the sound is definitely in the rear hub. Any ideas would be appreciated. Here is the youtube like, and thanks!!!!

 

[user 16790]

check all of the bearings

 

[sdt354]

Pull the caliper and spin it again, to eliminate the possibility. How much torque on the axle nut? Much less, than what the spec states, is needed.

 

[Eric S.]

I'll have to get the rear end up again. I know that it is not anything to do with the caliper cause it still did it when I had it off too. What will I look for when it comes to bearings? Thanks and what do you recommend as the "correct" torque? Thanks

 

[user 16790]

the bearings should be smooth running with no resistance, grating, wobble or corrosion,
also check that no spacers are missing

 

[Eric S.]

All,
Thanks for your responses, they are much appreciated. I took the rear tired off and found out that the sealed ball bearing seized up. It left a good size "cut" in the axle/shaft. Should I get a new one along with obviously new bearing? I'm pissed cause these bearings are about 400 miles old. From Dennis Kirk. Is there a break in period for bearings I'm not aware of for high speed applications? Thanks

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

All,
Thanks for your responses, they are much appreciated. I took the rear tired off and found out that the sealed ball bearing seized up. It left a good size "cut" in the axle/shaft. Should I get a new one along with obviously new bearing? I'm pissed cause these bearings are about 400 miles old. From Dennis Kirk. Is there a break in period for bearings I'm not aware of for high speed applications? Thanks

Any damaged components, replace. Why did you replace the bearings to begin with? I would find OEM replacements as they normally should be a lifetime replacement. I rolled my Virago with the original wheel bearings for 100K miles with no problems. I cant see why the Vmax bearings would be any different.

Another thought....did you have the bearings installed by a 3rd party or did you install them yourself? If you installed yourself, how did you install them?

 

[Eric S.]

Any damaged components, replace. Why did you replace the bearings to begin with? I would find OEM replacements as they normally should be a lifetime replacement. I rolled my Virago with the original wheel bearings for 100K miles with no problems. I cant see why the Vmax bearings would be any different.

Another thought....did you have the bearings installed by a 3rd party or did you install them yourself? If you installed yourself, how did you install them?

When i got my new shinkos put on they said its time for new ones so I bought the set and tapped them in with a rubber mallet and a socket and it went In very smooth and the shaft went right in so I'm pretty damn sure I had those things straight but maybe not, so get OEM instead of the Dennis Kirk ones ? Thanks

 

[sdt354]

I'll have to get the rear end up again. I know that it is not anything to do with the caliper cause it still did it when I had it off too. What will I look for when it comes to bearings? Thanks and what do you recommend as the "correct" torque? Thanks

I use just 30 ft. lbs. Max. on the axle nut. The high spec in the book loads them needlessly. IMO.Timken bearings are good. I wouldn't think Dennis Kirk would sell bearings of poor quality. Make sure the bearings are fully seated. Put them in the freezer the night before install to shrink them some. They'll go in easier. For almost anything you need, Sean Morley will have it. No one ships faster.

 

[one2dmax]

I do have most of all the typical service parts on hand new OEM and some new aftermarket. I haven't stock the ceramics for the stock wheels yet but debated doing that. They do last quite some time for stock already and as you mentioned they don't need near the amount of torque that the factory applies.

 

[Radioguylogs]

Yes, the rear axle nut probably doesn't require the 85ft-lb shown in the manual, especially since it had a cotter pin to keep it in place,... but on the other hand, it won't load the bearings because the spacer prevents the force from squeezing the inner races inward.

I don't think anybody remarked about a break in period for bearings. The answer is "NO, there is no break-in period". Install the bearings and ride it like you stole it - immediately. Something went wrong with your Dennis Kirk experience.

I'm sure you peeked inside the needle bearing on the LH side? Mine was rusted and the inner race was pitted from rust. My bike apparently sat in a damp environment or somebody power washed it.

-Mike

 

[likembikem]

Just when I thought my bike was in good shape now I am worried about my wheel bearings....add that to the list to do!

 

[sdt354]

The cotter pin isn't used on later model gen 1's. A lock nut is used instead. Something to pay attention too in itself. They get boogered after a lot of removals. On early models, ditch the old cotter pin. It's not worth reusing.

 

[sdt354]

Yes, the rear axle nut probably doesn't require the 85ft-lb shown in the manual, especially since it had a cotter pin to keep it in place,... but on the other han

I'm sure you peeked inside the needle bearing on the LH side? Mine was rusted and the inner race was pitted from rust. My bike apparently sat in a damp environment or somebody power washed it.

Just don't over tighten them everybody. An engineering debate on the result I'll leave to experts.

Yes, the rear axle nut probably doesn't require the 85ft-lb shown in the manual, especially since it had a cotter pin to keep it in place,... but on the other hand, it won't load the bearings because the spacer prevents the force from squeezing the inner races inward.

I don't think anybody remarked about a break in period for bearings. The answer is "NO, there is no break-in period". Install the bearings and ride it like you stole it - immediately. Something went wrong with your Dennis Kirk experience.

I'm sure you peeked inside the needle bearing on the LH side? Mine was rusted and the inner race was pitted from rust. My bike apparently sat in a damp environment or somebody power washed it.

-Mike View attachment 70128