What else should I watch out for?

[DigitalArts]

So based on current circumstance, I should be bolting the beauty back together early next week and the following will all be better than new (keep in mind my budget is literally below zero now so anything else should hopefully be labor only):

Brake fluid topped off
Spark plugs
Fuel pump cleaned
Fuel lines replaced
Fuel filter replaced (twice, lol)
Gas tank KBS (Por15) coated
Carbs will be cleaned over weekend
New battery
R/r replaced
New blinkers (not yet installed, they're LED)
Rear tire replaced (will do front when I find money)
Carbs will be tuned in sync
Oil changed (w/ bosch filter) 5w-40 Rotella
Shaft drive fuild changed 75-90w
Fuses replaced/connections cleaned
Ignition wires (thanks to a member here sending me some)
Velocity stack filters cleaned
Coolant flush and new coolant in


Basically, I need to know what else I need to do (preferably that is only labor). I need her to be dependable and safe.

I don't know exactly what the previous owned did. It has right around 50k miles

Do I need:
- A valve adjustment?
- Anything else?

Thanks a million guys, I'll be sure to pay it forward once I get on my feet. This has been quite a project considering the seller told me "I could drive it wherever and have nothing to worry about" when I bought it :bang head:

But hey! At least second gear hasn't slipped!!! unk:

 

[wayne z]

I would completly change both brakes and clutch and slave cyl fluids by bleeding off and topping off resivoirs until fresh fluid comes out.

 

[DigitalArts]

I would completly change both brakes and clutch and slave cyl fluids by bleeding off and topping off resivoirs until fresh fluid comes out.

How do I change the clutch fluid? And I have not bled the brake lines but compared to my old 07 CBR they certainly stop like shit xD

Haha, when the "running into money" miracle happens I'm certainly upgrading to at least 2 pot brakes on each rotor.

 

[wayne z]

Changing the fluids doesn't make the hydraulics work any better. It does vastly extend the life of the rubber parts though.

Brake fluid degrades and gets contaminated with water and wear debris over time. Good idea to completly change it every couple years.

Change the slave fluid same way as brake calipers by using the bleed screw and a hose to direct waste fluid into a container..

 

[[email protected]]

I agree on replacing all brake and clutch fluid. Its cheap and who knows how old it is?

 

[marsmax85]

Brakes and their function are a must and tire pressure I believe 36 frnt 42 back also make sure to warm engine gradually let oil warm to operating temps before revving it up you don't want to blow the orange oil seal in the oil pan area .

 

[Lew L]

All this talk of brake bleeding (replacing ) makes me think of "Speedbleeders.com" . Yes its another expense ( about $7 or $8 each and you need 3 )

BUT they make exchanging and bleeding SOOO easy.
Lew

 

[95spfldmax]

Do I need:
- A valve adjustment?
- Anything else?

I would say your due for another valve check/adjustment assuming the first one was done at 25K miles. It's a challenging process but is fully documented step-by-step here on the forum somewhere. Just a little out of spec and corrected can make your motor run with a whole new improved attitude.

 

[silverado6x6]

The stock front wheel bearings on my 85 were not the sealed type, when I pulled the wheel off last week to clean out the speedo hub and to repack it I saw some very dirty almost dry wheel bearings, neither one were the modern sealed type, so I bought a new set of 25-1334 All Balls, with seals, cost was less than $20.00 on Ebay, replaced both last night, I highly recommend doing the same. Cheap upgrade and insurance.

This should give you many many more trouble free miles now with sealed bearings.
And next I am taking rear wheel off to inspect the splines.
This is on my 85 with I think only 23,000 miles.