What have I got?

[WonkoTheSane]

The bike is new to me, needs a lot of love, and I'm trying to get a handle on what I've actually got, by cataloguing stuff as I find it. I could use a hand identifying any mods.



Goodridge braided lines for brakes and clutch?





Laser mufflers/silencers (don't know about the headers, they're recently fitted but don't know what they are)





Windshield, can't decipher the logo



Renntec sissy bar and rack:









Can any of you fine fellows spot anything else, or does the rest look stock? She's a '91 canadian import. I haven't looked at things under the airbox to see if I can spot any mods to the carbs etc, but the vboost seems intact. I hear something moving at the same time as the fuel pump when switching the ignition, and it certainly feels like I have the hand of God assisting when I hit 6000rpm :-D

 

[donnelly317]

I don't know anything on the questions but I hope you didn't fork out big money for that bike. Looks like it lived its life outside jeez! A little engine paint and hardware replacement will fix that

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[gamorg02]

headers look stock to me. man the front of that engine needs some cleanup eh?

the renntec units are nice, i have one, and getting harder to come by.

goodridge just another manf of lines.

that looks like an OEM flyscreen bracket with an extended plastic bit.

 

[ZackDaniels]

That shield.

Keep an eye for coolant and jazz on that engine side. Could be just rough outdoor life, but it looks rather splattery.

 

[twistedmax]

The seats not stock either, some one cut it down

 

[one2dmax]

I believe Exactrep sells that screen. I'd address the corrosion/rust back by the rear shock mounts. Not a great place to have rust happening.

Sean

 

[Biker Dash]

I'd address the corrosion/rust back by the rear shock mounts. Not a great place to have rust happening.

Yeah, I noticed that, and it concerns me as well. I'm thinking that you would want to go over the bike closely to check for any more trouble spots.

 

[Traumahawk]

Except for the aforementioned stuff...it looks stock....needs some TLC...but I get the feeling that you will take better care of her than the PO. This forum is a great place to start. There are some VERY knowledgeable people here.

 

[customizedcreationz]

Is that fork tube rust in the one picture?

Ouch.

 

[PATMAX]

What have you got? A sweet parts bike or a shitload of work. Take your pick. You did find a great Forum to get her back in order! Welcome!

 

[customizedcreationz]

Unless it runs absolutely awesome, I would say I agree with PatMax. Parts bike most likely depending on your budget. If it runs and you just want to ride. Than ride it. If you want something nice, than part it out and make some money to buy a better one.

 

[twistedmax]

Or combine your parts with OUR parts and build yourself your bike!

 

[woodsman30]

We all started somewhere some better off than others. Sean talked of rust.. he is spot on rust is not good and may weaken parts, bolts, ect.. A safe bike is first and foremost brakes, tires. after that make it your own and enjoy.
Welcome to the partyunk:

 

[one2dmax]

I've got a good frame as well as some others on here have frames. I'm not sure I would say it's complete shit yet but it does need to be examined well. Pay attention to the lower tube sections that run under the engine. They tend to hold water/moisture and will rust out without you knowing it. If the bike has solid mounts installed they won't be as critical since the engine will take over some of the load.

But, you may also be able to blast and paint those areas to stop the rust. Of course a complete tear down would let you blast and examine the whole mess and get it painted/coated and good to go again.

Sean

 

[Traumahawk]

On a side note, There is all of the knowledge that you need to fix this bike....and lots of parts as well.

 

[davesax36]

On a side note, There is all of the knowledge that you need to fix this bike....and lots of parts as well.

This.

Knowing what I know now about how much was involved in reviving and fixing my bike, I would have waited to spend the equal money on a bike in better shape. Seeing as how you already have this one, you need to know how willing/able you are to perform the necessary repairs. There is NOTHING impossibly hard on these bikes. One person can take the whole bike apart in a day (a long day) with the right collection of tools, which is not really that big a collection. If you love projects, you've probably got a great one if the engine is in good shape mechanically. There are guys on here that can help you with every single step of the process. Good luck either way you go.

 

[Suave Cowboy]

Disregard our rudeness, we are just very open and blunt about things here. We're too manly to sweet talk and bull shit unk: When you replace your rear suspension, I'd recommend going ahead and upgrading it to some Chrome 412 progressive lowering shocks.


On another note to everyone bashing the bike; Guys, it's a Canadian import. That means two things. One, Canada doesn't care about it's biker's safety; They didn't 'Nerf' their maxes at all, and this one more than likely makes 120 hp at the wheel stock. Two, It snowes 427 days out of the year up there. It's obviously salt corrosion from the roads taking off the paint, more than likely nothing that can't be buffed/sandblasted away. Not a big deal at all, aside from the shocks. I'd dismiss that as well if I could see the extent of it in person.

Don't let them bash you too much, mine was rough around the edges when I got it and now have flipped it with some TLC for 2 grand while adding over 5k miles. Just takes a little time and dedication, that's all!

 

[Fire-medic]

What have you got? A sweet parts bike or a shitload of work. Take your pick. You did find a great Forum to get her back in order! Welcome!

Sweat equity can solve the appearance items. Cold, hard cash can solve everything else. Which do you have more-of, time or money? Go that route.

I would say, after a careful appraisal for structural and running issues, make a determination about what you want to do. If it runs fine, and your inspection shows that the chassis isn't weakened by rust-through/rust-out to the point of structural failure under use, then if you spend the time on it, sure, you can bring it back.

You have to look at what your needs are. If the engine is suffering from the common worn shift dogs for second gear, causing it to jump-out of second gear while under load, you can try to cheap-out by only buying those parts which show wear, the shift dogs are an integral part of that gear, and the mating gear.

A better course of action would be to get the gearset undercut, after replacing any worn gears, and replace the shift drum and shift forks.

If the fork tubes are corroded where the seals are, you will have to bite the bullet and spend $ for a good used set of downtubes or buy replacements from a USA supplier like Forking by Frank. Last time I checked a USA price for a pair of downtubes was $300, maybe more now. You cannot do anything to your tubes to 'bring them back' which is cost-effective, except replace them.

The rear shocks probably have corrosion on the shafts and have the jounce/rebound capabilities of a 20-euro pogo-stick, and will need replacement. You could probably find a decent used pair to get you back on the road, but you are better-off buying some quality used replacements such-as Hagon, Progressive Suspension, or another purveyor of replacement shocks. My advice is to stick w/a stock 13" length, measured eye-to-eye, on-center. Shorter ones cost you travel, will make it easier to ground-out on corners if you are an enthusiastic cornering-devil, and are not as comfortable for the long-haul. People replace the stockers with up-to 1.5" shorter, indeed, I have a pair of 11.5" Progressive Suspension 440's, like new, just sitting because I don't want to give-up the cornering clearance.

Things that you would have to replace on any bike given wear and normal use, those are costs that you will have on most-any bike, given enough ownership time, like tires, brake pads, batteries, coolant, oil, brake fluid, and maybe either master cylinder rebuilds or replacements for F & R brakes, and the clutch master and slave. Those costs are a wash, as you will have them with any bike, eventually.

Appearance is highly-subjective, and there is something to be said for having a 'rat-bike-appearance' ride which is mechanically-sound and maybe even modified to provide better-than-stock performance. Nothing gets a guy's goat than to soundly-defeat him with a ratty-looking bike."How could that pile of &^%%^$#$^!* beat me, doesn't he see I have a 2013 Tardive Dyskinesia 600 Sport, as-ridden by that famous Italian rider to great international success?" Looks can always be addressed, after safety, reliability, and your budget are addressed.

I bet a pound-to-a-pauper that your bike spent its years close to a saltwater source, like the North Sea, or the Atlantic Ocean. That's the kind of appearance you acquire from salt-laden air. Nothing that sandblasting can't remove, once you properly-seal the engine. See the pic of my engine before and after sandblasting. I did it myself w/a 20-lb. pressure canister and a 60 gallon 220V air compressor.

So, tell us about its running capabilities. I may have missed that description. First order of business is to see it runs, shifts, and doesn't leak or overheat. Then you need to make a list of what needs to be done after a thorough exam of its bones. Price parts, labor, and total the costs, and see if your financial commitment matches the number this bike will take from your funds. You may decide to start w/something less-needy, always good advice when dealing with mechanical equipment or women.

Post on here and see what we can do to help you. unk:

Here are some pics to encourage you. The dated pic w/the blue tarp in it is my bike being slowly-brought back to use after an extended period of non-use. The one where I am polishing the bike, it was 1700 miles on the odometer about then and a year-old (pic is from 1993), you can see it has a paper tag (the temporary one they issue you here until your new metal tag arrives), and I was much-younger and thinner then! I'll tell you that I have spent over $4000 in parts, labor and repairs since that pic with the blue tarp was taken (Dec. 2011), nearly two years-ago, and I am not done yet. The last two are pics of what it looks like now, taken last month.

 

[woodsman30]

Holy shit Fire-medic the last pic has some big cans what are those?

 

[Suave Cowboy]

Looks like a 4-1 off of a yamaha warrior roadstar :blink000: