Wheel paint vs powdercoat

[RaWarrior]

I want to re-do the wheels on my Z in a solid gloss black. I've been waiting until it was tire change time so I could do it while the tires would be off anyway, and now it's that time.

Several people have recommended I get them powdercoated, citing better durability. However, of three local places I called that do it, the lowest quote I got was $300 for the pair, and a 1-2 week wait. Too expensive and too long.

I figured I would just paint them instead, though a few people I asked said this is a bad idea, it won't hold up, in a few years it will start to chip off and look terrible. Though I know someone who rattle-canned his bike wheels several years ago with a special VHT wheel paint and "wheel clear" from pep boys. They still look great probably 10k miles later, and his driveway is gravel. I also wondered about using a hardened rattle can clear like the SprayMax.

I can paint the wheels for maybe $20 and be done in an hour or two. Is it really worth the wait and expense for powdercoating?

 

[PATMAX]

I think paint can be done with good results. I just don't have the equipment or funding for paint plus the learning curve is steeper for paint than PC. My only suggestion is the media blast the Z wheels even on the inside lip of the wheels to get good "Bite" for the coating of your choice. Obviously do NOT do that if you ever think you will polish the wheels in the future.
Riding season is here!

 

[srk468]

I painted the center of my welded Kosman with similar paint to what you are talking about and its only been a year but it still looks as good as the day I did it.. Mine was a bare aluminum finish so I used self etching primer first then the black wheel paint then the clear.. Good thing about paint is if it does chip (mine hasn't) its easy to touch up. Some guys love the powder coat but I can usually paint it 20 times if I have to and still be cheaper, just my $.02

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[Fire-medic]

I got my FZR1000 wheels powdercoated about a year ago & am very happy w/how they have held-up, but I don't ride the bike much. It really isn't a 'trial by fire.' The shop closest to me charges $100/wheel, including prep.

 

[Miles Long]

I polished the rims of my bike in '06, then painted the hubs and webs, using automotive paint loaded into cans by the supplier ("spray bombs").
The paint has held up very well- no chipping or flaking. I think part of the reason for this has been that the hubs and webbing of the '03 wheels have a slightly serrated finish - only the rims are smooth, which made it much easier to polish.
Cheers!

 

[Biker Dash]

I myself will probably choose to have them powdercoated when the time comes for that. Mind you, that is a ways off, cause I wanna make sure that all physical changes are done before the painting and powdercoating is done.

 

[sdt354]

I think with a good clear you'll be fine painting them Ryan. The Eastwood 2 part rattle can clear get's great reviews. It might be worth the few extra dollars. The prep for PC is very time consuming. PC is more chemical resistant and harder. I painted my rear caliper with VHT caliper paint yesterday. Bead blasted it after fully collapsing the pistons. Degreased first of course. The dam paint was melting off as soon as a drop of brake fluid got on it. Next winter I'll PC all three.
Steve-o

 

[Diablotin]

I had some chips showing on the lips after 2 years so decided to go for powder coating. I should have done it earlier

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[one2dmax]

Powdercoating is not chip proof. It's just melted plastic on the wheel is all. A good properly baked/cured paint job will hold up well too.

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

paint 'em, and if you don't like it have them powdercoated next tire change!

 

[NHVmaxpower]

Powdercoating is not chip proof. It's just melted plastic on the wheel is all. A good properly baked/cured paint job will hold up well too.

Sean

I have parts that were pced & have chips in them. My wheels I had painted & they look like the day they were painted no chips,scratches. You wont get a nicer shine than paint!!!!Pc just don't have the same shine.

 

[maxcruiser]

paint 'em, and if you don't like it have them powdercoated next tire change!

+1 - prepped properly and good quality 2 part spray bombs should hold up well.

 

[NHVmaxpower]

Mine were done in a spray n bake booth no bomb. base coat clear coat.

 

[customizedcreationz]

If you strip them down to bare alumunim I ll coat them for $50 a wheel plus shipping. If they have to have the factory powder coat taken off and you don't want to do it yourself, then you would be at $125 per wheel. Plus shipping.

 

[timscues]

I powders coated mine like 8 years ago still look like great and even had some dot 3 leaking on them over the winter last year didnt harm them

 

[fmcandrew]

PC them if you can afford it...Custom's offer is sweet!

Chipped PC is most likely a result of an undercured application. Handlebar manufactures will PC the bars before bending them...plastic is very flexible & durable (just check out any landfill in America

 

[fmcandrew]

PC them if you can afford it...Custom's offer is sweet!

Chipped PC is most likely a result of an undercured application. Handlebar manufactures will PC the bars before bending them...plastic is very flexible & durable (just check out any landfill in America

 

[fmcandrew]

And PC can provide EXCELLENT results...to be honest I don't think this could have been painted any better...and I sure as shit know it wouldn't be anywhere as durable! And this is done by me...a hobbyist...at home...go figure...

 

[KJShover]

Garbage in, is garbage out.
Prep is everything, I'd paint them. A while back I did my swingarm and hub. No chips, still looks great, and going on 5 seasons now.

 

[RaWarrior]

I ended up going with paint. The wheels did have the factory orange (yuck) powdercoating on them, which caused the quotes for PCing to double or more. The front wheel was pretty clean, but the rear one had a lot of oxidation on the bare aluminum edges of the rim, especially on the "low" side of the bike.

Spend a good hour or two wet-sanding the existing PC and smoothing out the corrosion best I could. A self-etching primer went down(took like 5 coats to finally hide the orange), wet sanded that, then VHT "graphite" color wheel paint went on. It's a darkish gray with a slight metallic effect. I was going to do straight black, but saw that at the auto store, and it almost precisely matches the finish on the bike's engine. That covers well but holy crap does it make a mess, metallic dust goes everywhere. Then VHT wheel clear went on. After they had set up, like an hour, put them in the oven at 200* for 30min to cure as the directions suggested. Surprisingly very little smell.

It's not a flawless finish, but for ~$30 of paint and an afternoon I'm pretty happy with the results, at least it got rid of that awful orange.

Once I get the new tires put on them and back on the bike I'll get some before/after pictures.