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paulibiker

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Just bought a stock 07 with 4xxx miles. It was in storage for awhile and PO have the carbs cleaned earlier this year.

It believe it is running super rich. "Lazy" throttle, no surging, runs hard 7000 RPM up, and has a wet pop/burble in the left pipe.

I think something went wrong in the re-assembly of the carbs. Any common re-assembly mistakes that can cause a rich condition?

So far, I sync the carbs, mixture screws 2.5 turns out (BTW it was missing one screw), and I pull the slides to make sure the needles were seated ok. They were also shimmed.
 
2007 is the best year! One of the VMax gurus will help ya, sorry I have no more input than that. I'm carb-tune deficient..
 
Might want to do a wet level float check.
What's on it for pipes?
Is the old o-ring stuck in the hole with the missing A/F screw?

I'd pull the rack and look at everything....sometimes a 'complete cleaning' consists of wiping off the diaphragm covers!
 
Is the shim on the needle under it or on top of it?

The shim is between the C-clip and white spacer.

Might want to do a wet level float check.
What's on it for pipes?
Is the old o-ring stuck in the hole with the missing A/F screw?

I'd pull the rack and look at everything....sometimes a 'complete cleaning' consists of wiping off the diaphragm covers!

Float level was checked at time of cleaning, looks like I'll double check that and the o-ring first.

Stock pipes.

Everything looked clean when I had the slides out. Are the slides suppose to have a hole in them? I'm pretty good at tearing carbs apart and putting them back together if everything is in it correct place. Not so much if I'm trying to find a "paint brush in a tree branch".:rofl_200:

THANKS Paul
 
The shim is where it's s'posed to be but why is it there in the first place? Don't need to shim for OEM pipes.


Yes, there is a hole in the slides....some drill it larger but there's one there from the factory.
 
maybe had a pipe on it, then returned to stock when sold.


Always stock according to PO. No marks on any exhaust fasteners.



The shim is where it's s'posed to be but why is it there in the first place? Don't need to shim for OEM pipes.


Yes, there is a hole in the slides....some drill it larger but there's one there from the factory.

I did run/ride it without shims and there was no change..........
 
Sounds like carbs have been checked out pretty well and appear ok. Maybe take a quick look around other areas. Be sure the air filter isn't clogged, check the spark plugs are in good shape, while you have the plugs out see if the color tells you anything about a possible rich or lean condition. Sounds rich if anything.
 
Might be a stupid question for me to ask, but you stated there is a shim between the needle clip and the plastic spacer.....is there also one above the clip?....between the clip and the small spring? Just checking, trying to help!
 
Might be a stupid question for me to ask, but you stated there is a shim between the needle clip and the plastic spacer.....is there also one above the clip?....between the clip and the small spring? Just checking, trying to help!

Yup, air filter looks good too.

Keep the suggestions coming, I really appreciate it.
 
The needle shims being there indicate someone went inside those carbs, for some reason.....perhaps to 'reinvent the wheel,' which isn't unheard of...(some guy says "what you need is bigger mains, different PAJ2 and needle shims and this bike will run like a bandit"!)

Not saying that's what happened but if they shimmed the needles they may have changed jetting also. :confused2:
 
Yes, tear down and verify look to be the way to go Paul. Bigger mains with a stock air box would be a mistake and make running rich the result. Not that there couldn't be another minor issue.
Steve-o
 
Float level good, removed shims from needles, drilled 1" hole in stock exhaust cans, & it runs pretty good.

Don't know if I fixed something without trying or the exhaust did it.

I still get a pop/burble at cruising/steady speed/rpm sometimes. No surging, so I think it's still rich.

How do I remove the mixture screw to see if the old o-ring is still there? I did not think to check before I put the new one in.:bang head:

BTW the exhaust sounds a lot better then I thought it would, keep in mind that I've had Supertrapps, Marks 4-2, & 4-1 on previous Vmaxs.
 
Screw the A/F screws in till they bottom out, counting the number of turns (so you can get back to that point when you re-install) then just back them out. The old o-ring can really hide in there, best thing I've found is a pick tool to probe around with.

Be careful not to mark up the seats and have the right size screwdriver for the A/F screws.
 

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