Where to find Fasteners for my GMC K1500

[Redbone]

I have a 1998 GMC K1500 that I'm replacing the front wheel hubs/ rotors/ brake pads/ shocks. Some of the bolts need to be replaced due to rusting and my fumble handed attempts at removing them have ruined them. I was able to get a couple out today and feel good that I'll get the others out tomorrow.
With that moving forward I need to get some new bolts, is there somewhere I can go to find out the proper sizes/ grades/ etc.? I have searched everywhere , called my local NAPA store and the parts guy said I would have to go through the dealer? There has to be a better (and cheaper!) source. I'm sure McMaster-Carr or Bolt Depot will have what I need but what do I need?
Thanks in advance for any assistance!

 

[caseyjones955]

Are you able to get enough out to get a thread gauge on it or even take the damaged bolts in and use a gauge to determine size and thread pitch, and as is the case with many domestic vehicles, SAE or metric. I have done that move where I bring remnants into NAPA to match them up, some NAPA stores have impressive fastener selections and if your lucky a clerk that knows his stuff.

Fastenall and NAPA are good sources, that line about going through the dealer on anything 98 can loosely be enterpreted as "I have no idea and cant point you in a direction but would rather not admit it outright."

I hope someone can chime in with grades and size/pitch.

 

[Redbone]

I will have a good enough example to take to my Napa that has a fairly good selection. There is a Fastenal here but they are only open when I'm working, not convenient at all as I would have to take a day off just to be able to go to their store. :damn angry: They have a little better inventory than Napa but had to order some bolts when changing over some of Redbone's fasteners.

 

[sdt354]

I will have a good enough example to take to my Napa that has a fairly good selection. There is a Fastenal here but they are only open when I'm working, not convenient at all as I would have to take a day off just to be able to go to their store. :damn angry: They have a little better inventory than Napa but had to order some bolts when changing over some of Redbone's fasteners.

From what I remember those bolts that hold the hub on are special and probably grade 8 hard. Only six point tools should be used to crack them loose or final tighten. But I feel your pain Brian. They get rounded off by previous hub changes. And they are special shouldered bolts. Dorman makes them. Amazon sell some for Chevy's.

 

[Redbone]

Damn, I used a 12 point which is probably why I had issues. This is the first time I've replaced a wheel hub and I'm finding that I'm going to pick up more tools; air tools specifically if I'm going to try to keep this truck going on the cheap. I'm looking at the 150k shock bolts and they look like some real knuckle busters! Thanks for your input Steve.


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[Fire-medic]

I'm sure you are aware of this, but "heat is your friend." Especially when dealing w/the ravages of decades of rust. An oxy/acetylene torch to heat the fasteners and then quenching them w/PB Blaster or ATF/Mineral oil mix should give you a fighting chance of removing them w/o having to cut them off, or have them snap-off when you try to break that rust bond that's taken-ahold after 19 years. As you mentioned, you should only be using 6-point sockets on hex nuts. Twelve-point sockets are for removing six-point nuts that haven't been subjected to decades of salt and whatever-else the northern localities use in the winter for their roads, or for removing 4-point square fasteners w/o having to buy special sockets.

I once had an early 1940's Mercury from which I was trying to remove the fasteners. I rung-off a couple of fender bolts, and went out and bought a large set of gas-axe bottles, and after heating the remaining fasteners, I never lost another bolt to fatigue and too-much torque. I also learned how to braze on that project, a skill I've saved the cost of my bottles and torches many times over, from being able to do things myself.

I haven't been to a GM dealer in some time, but I thought the microfiche listed the fasteners by type, grade, and size. Now it's all digital online, but I bet if you look on different websites for the electronic microfiche, you should be able to get the info you need. Those integral washer-head bolts and nuts I'm not sure what to call 'em, but I suspect that's what you need for a lot of the fasteners.

 

[sdt354]

I'm sure you are aware of this, but "heat is your friend." Especially when dealing w/the ravages of decades of rust. An oxy/acetylene torch to heat the fasteners and then quenching them w/PB Blaster or ATF/Mineral oil mix should give you a fighting chance of removing them w/o having to cut them off, or have them snap-off when you try to break that rust bond that's taken-ahold after 19 years. As you mentioned, you should only be using 6-point sockets on hex nuts. Twelve-point sockets are for removing six-point nuts that haven't been subjected to decades of salt and whatever-else the northern localities use in the winter for their roads, or for removing 4-point square fasteners w/o having to buy special sockets.

I once had an early 1940's Mercury from which I was trying to remove the fasteners. I rung-off a couple of fender bolts, and went out and bought a large set of gas-axe bottles, and after heating the remaining fasteners, I never lost another bolt to fatigue and too-much torque. I also learned how to braze on that project, a skill I've saved the cost of my bottles and torches many times over, from being able to do things myself.

I haven't been to a GM dealer in some time, but I thought the microfiche listed the fasteners by type, grade, and size. Now it's all digital online, but I bet if you look on different websites for the electronic microfiche, you should be able to get the info you need. Those integral washer-head bolts and nuts I'm not sure what to call 'em, but I suspect that's what you need for a lot of the fasteners.

+1, I usually swap out the whole hub. So excessive heating around the thread until it's glowing helps mucho. I've had to grind the heads off before to get them apart, I hope yours aren't that difficult, Brian. The hub assembly gives you a new ABS sensor as a bonus. The Timkin bearing brand seem to last longest for me. Never- seize on the new bolts is a kind thing to do.

 

[Redbone]

I finally decided to just replace the hub and caliper mounting bolts but the won't be here until Monday. In the meantime I picked up a impact gun that's battery powered, an 18v to go with driver/drill and lower powered impact set from Milwaukee. That will make quick work of the rusty shock bolts, I hope!

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[[email protected]]

I'm a fan of Milwaukee cordless products. We have over 15 trucks outfitted with construction equipment. Over the years, we've tried Dewalt, Mikita, Bosch, etc... The 18v Milwaukee Fuel line is my favorite so far.

The local rep stops by every so often and has some great promotions. I just picked up a utility crimper and hammer drill/impact driver kit last week.

Anyways, pay attention to the specs on their impact wrenches. They have multiple variations. You can buy a 1/2" impact with 210 ft-lbs or up to 700 ft-lbs. When you shop around you need to compare spec and price.

Just a couple examples:

www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2763-20

www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2655b-20

Edit: FYI, if you create am account on their website you can create a personal tool tracking database. You can upload receipts, serial #, location, etc... not a bad idea to do if you have an investment in tools. We have our own system and it helped prove ownership after we had a truck robbed. It also helped with the insurance claim.

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[Traumahawk]

Here is the drill/driver that I bought 4 almost 5 years ago. I picked it up from Lowes on sale, and it was about 125 if I remember correctly. The thing that i like about it, is that it is smaller, Ive used it for all of my carb work, for the screws putting the diaphragm covers on, and all of the little screws that are on the Vmax. On the scale, I put the drill on 16, and it will tighten everything up, without stripping it out, and without them being too loose as well. Its what I always take to the dyno with me, if I am changing jets there.

I was kinda shocked to learn the price without it being on sale, but its been great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045JK3F...argid=kwd-133175741844&ref=pd_sl_3zah7job8t_b

I might looked the the Milwaukee ones posted above for bigger jobs. That would be the perfect thing to take to rallies....etc.