Winter checklist: Paint prep and color.

[caseyjones955]

I got Maxine inside and about ready to begin my winter checklist of upgrades. I have the progressive fork springs, seals and oil thanks to Sean for the great videos and parts btw. I hope to have it painted when my new Maxgasser arrives. This is all she needs.

Here is the only thing, I'm a little muddy on paint prep. It is the carbon fiber, hazy and cloudy with a 5" gouge in the rear fender maybe 0.30" deep at the deepest point. I plan to fill with Bondo and rough up everything with maybe 400 to take a painted finish. In case it is not obvious im a body/paint noob. Im leaning towards a turquoise blue, for safety reasons I dont want to go with a dark color. I have not seen one like this so welcome opinions on how that might look.

I plan to rattle can it. I repainted my flaking Lexus front bumper after going to a bodyshop and the guy came out with a camera apparatus and sampled the paint, 45 minutes later I had two rattle cans they made to match exactly and it went on so damn well and the finished product is amazing, it looks almost pro but wifey and I spent a lot of time prepping it. It changed my opinion of rattlecans for small areas like bike parts perhaps. I plan to go back and choose the paint and do my max the same way.

Is 400 grit and bondo appropriate? The guy told me that he uses no clearcoat but just polishes the paint. It worked great on the car but I cant suppress the feeling that I should clearcoat it to as I ride in all weather and all summer so it is not garaged. I know about spraying in sterile ventilated space but if anyone has anything to add I'm all ears. I dont expect ot to look like a showbike but I want an attractive durable finish.

 

[blaxmax]

I got Maxine inside and about ready to begin my winter checklist of upgrades. I have the progressive fork springs, seals and oil thanks to Sean for the great videos and parts btw. I hope to have it painted when my new Maxgasser arrives. This is all she needs.

Here is the only thing, I'm a little muddy on paint prep. It is the carbon fiber, hazy and cloudy with a 5" gouge in the rear fender maybe 0.30" deep at the deepest point. I plan to fill with Bondo and rough up everything with maybe 400 to take a painted finish. In case it is not obvious im a body/paint noob. Im leaning towards a turquoise blue, for safety reasons I dont want to go with a dark color. I have not seen one like this so welcome opinions on how that might look.

I plan to rattle can it. I repainted my flaking Lexus front bumper after going to a bodyshop and the guy came out with a camera apparatus and sampled the paint, 45 minutes later I had two rattle cans they made to match exactly and it went on so damn well and the finished product is amazing, it looks almost pro but wifey and I spent a lot of time prepping it. It changed my opinion of rattlecans for small areas like bike parts perhaps. I plan to go back and choose the paint and do my max the same way.

Is 400 grit and bondo appropriate? The guy told me that he uses no clearcoat but just polishes the paint. It worked great on the car but I cant suppress the feeling that I should clearcoat it to as I ride in all weather and all summer so it is not garaged. I know about spraying in sterile ventilated space but if anyone has anything to add I'm all ears. I dont expect ot to look like a showbike but I want an attractive durable finish.

If you look at the video that is up now called 'what's the difference' I did a rattle can job and the rear fender is 400 grit wet.Tank and front fender are 600. It seems to take better with 600. The 1st video is without clearcoat and the 2nd is with it. Hope it helps ya.

 

[one2dmax]

The original color on your 99 (through 02) is actually a sticker from Yamaha. Pretty innovative at the time for an OEM to do that.

Sean

 

[caseyjones955]

A sticker, that is.cool, I hope this is not a stupid question but can I prep and finish it as Mentioned above or do I need to peel anything off first. I wasnt sure how tbey got the CF and I like it but Im going for something more unique and visible to the hordes of distracted drivers.

On the vids, I cant see them, Im working now but will be home Wednesday so I should be able to view them once I get to my computer. Thanks for the responses guys, Im excited to get started and welcome all the wisdom.

 

[Hooligans]

I really like the Duplicolor engine enamel clear coat for protecting rattle canned parts. I find using a scotch brite pad is enough for the first coat of paint - wet sand with 400 and up for the next few coats, then clear coat and wet sand again with 1000 and up - I usually do 2 to 3 coats of color and as many coats of clear as I have the patience to put on - wet sand with 2000 grit then use nufinish with a buffer for the final glow. It's a lot of work but in my opinion looks pretty close to pro painter quality.

The biggest thing to be concerned with when painting with rattle cans is to ensure an even finish - I do this by putting on a "dusting" coat and then following up 10 mins later with a medium/heavy coat. Do all your consecutive coats within one hour - otherwise wait overnight before putting on any more paint - with the engine enamel wait even longer - if you follow the directions on the can with patience you can achieve a great finish.

 

[Hooligans]

My bike was rattled canned top to bottom.

 

[caseyjones955]

That looks fantastic! Thank you for posting it. I have a mental image of how it has to go down now. I have patience and all freezeass winter. Should I use some type of primer since I'm going to a lighter color? I can probably get an appropriate primer when I get the paint. I will take my sweet time as I plan to keep this bike longterm.

I just did a pair of 18" DIY HT home subwoofers and I took my time inspite of a burning desire to get them hooked up, Its easy to see how some patience shows in the finished product. I will be sure to take my time with this project as well, Im looking for the best results my skill level allows.

 

[one2dmax]

You can paint over the sticker with no issues usually.

 

[Miles Long]

For the scratch, Bondo would suffice, but finishing putty would be my choice. It's finer than bodyfill, and harder after it sets up. Try to use as little as possible, since it's also harder to sand.
To prepare the scratch, drill a series of very tiny (1/16") holes along it's length, spaced about 1/2" apart. Don't fret if you drill completely thru the plastic. This will help anchor the bodyfill or putty.
I've had good luck as well with "paint bombs" mixed at auto supply shops, but make sure you ask about drying times when you purchase. A hardening agent is usually added to automotive paints prior to spraying with conventional equipment. This is why the paint can be wet-sanded and buffed out within a few days. For obvious reasons, the hardening agent cannot be added to paint bombs.
I usually wait at least three weeks before touching the paint, then use a rubbing compound in an inconspicuous area to make sure the paint is hard enough for final finishing.

With the huge variety of paints and finishing techniques available, it's best to ask for specific instructions from the supplier. Better still, a professional painter.
Good luck!

 

[[email protected]]

I'm envious of those that get a nice finish from a rattle can. I don't have the skill or patience to pull it off. Kudos to those that can do it.

 

[blaxmax]

I'm envious of those that get a nice finish from a rattle can. I don't have the skill or patience to pull it off. Kudos to those that can do it.

Trick is to stay 12in away and paint your angles first.

 

[caseyjones955]

I considered having them sprayed but I have a self-imposed budget for this bike, besides I have always admired guys that do most or all of their own customizing where possible. I thank you gents, I think I have a good idea now of how to get started and what I need to get. Ill have some pics in a couple weeks of progress after we get started on it. Again thank you for being so quick with all the right answers.

 

[blaxmax]

Color?

 

[caseyjones955]

I'm thinking turquoise but its not etched in stone, looking for something light that I have not seen on a max yet. Scoops to remain unpainted,

 

[sdt354]

Have a look at the 2 part, epoxy clear coat from Eastwood. It's hard as nails and can be worked. I'd not hesitate to rattle can a bike. There are some nice looking bikes out there that were done this way. I'm terrible at painting, but the beauty of it is you can sand and buff almost any paint job, to look decent.

 

[Miles Long]

Have a look at the 2 part, epoxy clear coat from Eastwood. It's hard as nails and can be worked. I'd not hesitate to rattle can a bike. There are some nice looking bikes out there that were done this way. I'm terrible at painting, but the beauty of it is you can sand and buff almost any paint job, to look decent.

+1
If and when I repaint my bike, I'm going to give this product a go.
www.eastwood.com/spray-max-2k-high-gloss-clearcoat-aerosol.html
Unlike the over-the-counter clear coats available, this is a two-part system, and of most importance, highly resistant to gasoline and other fluids(who hasn't spilled gas on their rear fender from time to time?).
Another big advantage of clear-coating is that you generally do not have to wet-sand your base coat. Clear coats are meant to be applied within a day (or less) following the base coat application. This assures better adhesion of the clear, because the base is not yet fully cured.
Not having to wet-sand and buff the base saves a lot of time and effort.
Again, it's always better to get the advice of the pros, once you decide on your choice and method of painting.
Cheers!

 

[[email protected]]

+1
If and when I repaint my bike, I'm going to give this product a go.
www.eastwood.com/spray-max-2k-high-gloss-clearcoat-aerosol.html
Unlike the over-the-counter clear coats available, this is a two-part system, and of most importance, highly resistant to gasoline and other fluids(who hasn't spilled gas on their rear fender from time to time?).
Another big advantage of clear-coating is that you generally do not have to wet-sand your base coat. Clear coats are meant to be applied within a day (or less) following the base coat application. This assures better adhesion of the clear, because the base is not yet fully cured.
Not having to wet-sand and buff the base saves a lot of time and effort.
Again, it's always better to get the advice of the pros, once you decide on your choice and method of painting.
Cheers!

I've heard good things about this clear coat too.
My concern would be finding a compatible base coat. Not sure if this can be sprayed over whatever base you choose or there are restrictions. Inquiring minds and all that.

 

[Miles Long]

I've heard good things about this clear coat too.
My concern would be finding a compatible base coat. Not sure if this can be sprayed over whatever base you choose or there are restrictions. Inquiring minds and all that.

In the Q&A section of the above link, one of the questions involves this.
The answer - "Catalyzed urethane clear should not be used over lacquer paint."

 

[caseyjones955]

I'm delighted to be home after 8 days in the field, I was unable to view that or the video on my phone but I have noted all the wisdom here to bring with and I plan to have a quick conversation with the body guy before buying. After I sleep for 48 hours I'm heading over there to get the stuff I need. If he says anything different than whats posted here I'll come back and do more research. I have been deeply impressed by this place so I expect no hitches.

If not for this forum I would be lost as painting is outside my comfort zone, I'm only going to try it because the Lexus came out so nicely.

 

[caseyjones955]

Finally got through at the paint shop, picked a color from the book and got all the fixins'
1 SEM high-build primer surfacer, elastometric arcrylic.
2 cans of solid color base coat
2 cans of some high gloss two part clear coat. I'll have to put a key into the bottom of the can to mix and use within 36 hours. I asked him about the Eastwood and nobody local seemed to have any. He assured me that this was about as good as it gets from a rattlecan. I got two so I can recoat the scoops (unpainted).

The color swatch came out a little bit lighter than the turquoise I imagined but I'm going to stay the course and hope it looks good. The lighter the better in regards to safety so we'll see. I hope to get started this week now that things have slowed down. Pics as soon as I get going on it.