Won't turn off

[godsend1]

Just replaced the right side controls, starter switch kil switch..test rode just fine.

Rode into work did quite a bit of idling bike is normal hot, went to turn it off with the key...notta. Kill switch kills it. Head light stays on no matter where the ignition key is.

Made it into work and pulled the 4 fuses under the faux tank. Will check switch operation when the bike is cold.

Any ideas real quick? Never had this problem before.

 

[Miles Long]

If the ignition switch checks out O.K., next check the three wire connector that connects the switch to the wiring loom. The brown and red wires may be making contact thru the plastic. This happened to my bike, and at least two others on this forum.
Cheers!

 

[godsend1]

If the ignition switch checks out O.K., next check the three wire connector that connects the switch to the wiring loom. The brown and red wires may be making contact thru the plastic. This happened to my bike, and at least two others on this forum.
Cheers!

Thanks Miles,

IS there a procedure to check the ignition switch in the manual? If not I'll look around here to find one.

Won't be able to get into it till I get the bike home.

 

[godsend1]

Miles, I found your post in this thread:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=24414&highlight=turn
that explains how to check the ign switch.

Thanks again.

 

[Miles Long]

Miles, I found your post in this thread:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=24414&highlight=turn

that explains how to check the ign switch.

Thanks again.

Yes, easy job, to check both switch and connector. You can do it all, just by disconnecting the three-pin, and setting your meter for continuity. No need to remove the ignition switch, unless of course it turns out to be the culprit.
Switch in off position - no continuity between any of the wires.
" " on " -continuity between all three wires.
" " park " - continuity between only the red and blue wires.
If all this checks out, then check the loom side of the connector. You will have battery voltage at the red wire terminal, nada at the brown and/or blue terminals - unless the plastic is shorted thru.
As you say, lots of tutorials in the electrical forum for reconditioning the switch, if needed.

 

[naughtyG]

I had that problem with my '86 - troubleshooted EVERYTHING and still it would not go off. I ended up temporarily wiring a killswitch inline with the main fuse from the battery, and hid it under the faux-tank near the fusebox.

In the end, I could never find where the short was, even though I unwrapped most of my wiring loom. Luckily I had a spare loom from another '86 (spare parts bike), so I ended up replacing the whole loom and that finally fixed it!

 

[dannymax]

If the ignition switch checks out O.K., next check the three wire connector that connects the switch to the wiring loom. The brown and red wires may be making contact thru the plastic. This happened to my bike, and at least two others on this forum.
Cheers!

Had this happen to my '85 700x and it can be a ***** to find. The connector can look perfect but somehow power will jump across that plastic partition! Even broke the plastic apart looking for a tiny crack but couldn't see one. I ordered a handful of 3 wire connectors and the male/female brass ends and replaced the entire thing.

Actually, the guy I bought the 700x from told me he had let it idle for a long time also (thinking it would start running better I guess).....not sure how that would relate to the problem but it is a common thread. :confused2:

 

[88vmx12]

If you are in need of a new connector housing I might have that one in stock

G

 

[godsend1]

Think I found it, disconnected the ignition connector everything is still on. checked continuity on the loom side ignition connector between the red/brown, and there is continuity.

When replacing the connector can I remove the broken connector leaving the spades on the wires and just slip them into the new connector?

Here's a couple of pics of the damaged connector:

 

[naughtyG]

Get the spades out and separated, then see if you still have continuity first..

 

[Miles Long]

Think I found it, disconnected the ignition connector everything is still on. checked continuity on the loom side ignition connector between the red/brown, and there is continuity.

When replacing the connector can I remove the broken connector leaving the spades on the wires and just slip them into the new connector?

Here's a couple of pics of the damaged connector:

You could replace the connector, or do what I did - eliminate the connector completely, use three individual soldered, crimp connectors as a replacement. Never have to worry about this connection failing again!
Of course the down side - if you have to replace the ignition switch. For this reason, recondition (clean) the switch terminals first.

 

[godsend1]

It was the connector, no continuity between the wires.

 

[godsend1]

Looks like I'll be soldering.

 

[godsend1]

Looks like I'll be soldering.

Ughh, or a new connector.

 

[88vmx12]

Got em'

G

 

[naughtyG]

It was the connector, no continuity between the wires.

Phew! Glad that's all it was for you :clapping:

 

[godsend1]

Phew! Glad that's all it was for you :clapping:

Ya, I read your post about this and was very happy that it was so simple.

 

[dannymax]

Get a new 3 wire connector, it may be worth it's weight in gold someday.

I soldered mine, then couldn't live with that and installed the connector....now I sleep good again! :biglaugh:

 

[godsend1]

Ya, got one coming from 88vmx12

 

[mr.maxx]

Ya, got one coming from 88vmx12

wont take long:biglaugh: he"s pretty zippyunk: