Not sure what you mean by cover brackets....I know of no such thing, which is probably why you can't find part #'s.....
Drain the oil, or if you can securely lean the bike on it's right side(I put a jackstand under my right highway peg mount), you can skip this. On the same token, on the sidestand you can remove the clutch cover with no oil spilling FYI.
It's pretty straightforward. You'll need a 12mm to remove the footpeg, a 10mm to remove the pinch bolt on the gearshift, and a 5mm allen key to remove the case bolts, as well as a #3 or #4 philips screwdriver (BIG one) to remove the stator bolts. The two bolts that mount the shifter also help hold the middle gear cover on, they're longer than the rest. The bottom screw on the middle gear cover has a small copper washer on it, just make sure it doesn't get lost.
Remove footpeg
Remove shifter
Remove middle gear cover
Remove stator cover.
The stator cover will fight you a bit since you have to yank it out from the magnets inside the flywheel. Then you just remove the three big philips head screws and the thin disc on top that keeps it centered. Remove the two screws that hold the wire guide in place(one is shared with the pickup coil bracket). Get the stator wires out from under it, pull the grommet out of the case and toss the old stator. Put the disc on the new stator, put the wires back in the channel, and reinstall the guide/cover thing. Then assembly is just reverse of removal.
Make sure your screwdriver fits well....they're pretty tight and stripping them I imagine would cause a royal PITA. If it only fits a little bit, don't use it, and get one that does. If you have an impact driver, it might make this easier. All 3 came out for me without stripping, but it took a LOT of torque and gripping the screwdriver with a rag.
Ensure you do a good job cleaning the mating surfaces...chances are the old gaskets will leave lots of crud behind. I use a razor blade scraper and scotch-brite pads to clean them. A little extra time now prevents you from having to take it all apart again when it leaks. For me the OEM gaskets never worked to re-seal the case, so I use blackRTV, but others have reported that making a gasket can cause binding in the starter geartrain. Always fine for me, but do so at your own risk I suppose.
While you're at it, cut the connector off the stator, and directly splice the wires to the r/r. I'd suggest also wiring the r/r directly to the + and - sides of the battery...the factory harness has lots of choke points that cost you voltage.