I use a short piece of clear plastic tubing and a syringe I buy at the pharmacist's, you don't need a prescription for a syringe, it's a 60 ml (CC) syringe w/a conical tip on it which accepts the clear plastic tubing I.D. tightly. Read further below the links to see another source.
If I am installing a rebuilt slave or a new one, I fill it w/fluid on the bench, hand tighten the bleeder, and install it. I have some rubber plugs I use for the extension to the clutch line, friction-fit. Once the slave is bolted up, I remove the rubber plug for the stock rigid line, though you may have a SS flex line, I think, should be no-difference. Connect it. I usually leave the master cyl dry and just begin using the syringe to push fluid into the system from the slave bleeder. I use a teeny hose clamp to hold the tubing to the bleeder, and loosen the syringe so the tubing and bleeder can revolve either open or closed, depending on what I am trying to do w/it. Close the bleeder if you need to re-fill the syringe. Remove the syringe from the end of the tubing, and fill the syringe, and when you re-connect the filled syringe, if there are air bubbles in the tubing, a bit of 'pulling-out' pressure on the syringe stopper (the plunger) will allow the bubbles to move into the syringe body, and float to the top, leaving you w/a full body of fluid and no bubbles. Open the bleeder valve again, and continue to push fluid up the hydraulic system until you see the fluid start to accumulate in the master cylinder reservoir. This will usually be announced by a multitude of tiny "fizzy" bubbles in the fluid, just what you want, as the fluid is removing the air in the system!
Keep doing this until you don't see the "fizzy" bubbles any more, an indication that you have purged the air from the system. It may be necessary to remove some fluid from the master cyl reservoir if it fills, and you still have "fizzy" bubbles. At some point, you should have fluid and pretty-much no bubbles coming through the big & small holes in the floor of the master cyl. You should close the slave bleeder, and start to pump the lever, which should very-quickly show you to have some immediate resistance, and you should have the sense that the clutch slave is moving the pressure plate into disengagement. CAUTION! If you pull the lever w/the reservoir top off, and it has bled then you will get a geyser of fluid from the tiny front hole closest to the banjo bolt! If you carefully pull the clutch lever, you can see the geyser, and just don't pull it rapidly which will shoot the brake fluid everywhere. I usually cram a bunch of paper towels around the master cyl reservoir and replace them as required. You can always replace the cap which is probably the best way to do it, be careful how-much torque you use the tighten the screws. I usually have a bunch of replacement screws on-hand for the reservoir cap. A tapered flat-head Phillips screw or an allen-head will work, and I have used a hex-head machine screw in a pinch. If you have problems with the Phillips head screws, I cut a slot w/my trusty Dremel & a cut-off blade, and use a good-fitting slot head screwdriver.
Now you pump the lever to a point of pressure, and open the slave bleeder, as you would in a traditional bleeding, and feel the lever go to the handlebar-DO NOT RELEASE THE CLUTCH LEVER! Hold the lever to the handlebar, and tighten the slave bleeder. Now you can release the lever. Do this several times and every time you do, in the clear plastic tubing and the syringe still connected to the bleeder, you should see a solid column of brake fluid slightly-moving with your efforts. By now, you should have a firm clutch lever w/very-little free-play, and a total release of the clutch pressure plate. This concludes your work. Make sure you clean the brake fluid thoroughly. Discard the used brake fluid, never return it to the container!
That's how I do it, and I have pretty-much given-up on trying to rebuild master cyl's, I just buy a new one if the old one is bleeding internally.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21799&highlight=clutch+bleeding
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=22061&highlight=clutch+bleeding
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=31061&highlight=clutch+bleeding
Here is the thread where the pictures went out of sequence when the software was changed. It's harder to follow, but you can do it with a bit of care.
It talks about making a simple bleeder tool from parts you can source at different places. One I made, I did it with a 'flavor-injector' syringe I bought at my local supermarket, in the meats section. Then a trip to the auto parts store for a threaded wheel schrader valve like you have on a cast aluminum wheel. Finally, a trip to the hardware store for some flat washers and rubber washers with a wide size.
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/
