8 passes on Friday ar HRP

[Rusty McNeil]

Well, I took the bike out to HRP Friday nite and had a pretty good night. It's the first time I've had it to the track since installing the UFO exhaust.

First thing was take it to the scale and it confirmed the wieght loss which was about 20lbs from stock to the UFO's.

With the bike on the reserve light it tipped the scales at 600lb.

I also confirmed I've been drinking way too much beer lately as with me on the bike it weighed 860lbs, I'm very surprised how much full gear weighs as naked I weigh 235 (not a pretty sight! trust me:biglaugh: ) so gear including helmet weighs about 25lbs

My rear tire is for surely due for replacement which is the reason I went in the first place since I don't like to take a new tire out there since this is my daily driver.

All eight runs were between 11.51 and 11.59 mostly 11.52 & 3's, the 60 foot times were worse than I used to get and all between 1.86-1.92 and traps were all between 118.5 and 117.5

Overall I'm pretty happy, I've had a few faster "fluke" runs in the low 11.40's but that was in 50 degree weather and no humidity, Friday was in the high 70's and typical Houston 95% humidity.

I've never done this many runs that were all this fast and this consistent

Love to see 10's but I don't think it's gonna happen on a stock (mostly) max and me at 235lbs, time to lose weight....

 

[one2dmax]

you need trap speeds of about 122 to make the 10 second pass possible. Then you would need to get a 60' of mid 160's to boot. I finally made my 10 second pass last year with a 10.98 - 1.66 60' - 121 mph. Bike was stock engined, had one of my carb kits (dynoed at 127), and a kosman 17" rear wheel and front strapped down.

Other than that your consistency is awesome and is probably what the bike will run. I would say 11.20-11.30's are in it with better 60' time.

Sean

 

[Rusty McNeil]

you need trap speeds of about 122 to make the 10 second pass possible. Then you would need to get a 60' of mid 160's to boot. I finally made my 10 second pass last year with a 10.98 - 1.66 60' - 121 mph. Bike was stock engined, had one of my carb kits (dynoed at 127), and a kosman 17" rear wheel and front strapped down.

Other than that your consistency is awesome and is probably what the bike will run. I would say 11.20-11.30's are in it with better 60' time.

Sean

Thanks for the comments.

I could use some tips on how to strap a front end (how much to compress it, etc) and what effects it may have down the strip. I strapped it in the garage by going from the brake caliper attachment bolts and up and over/behind the upper triple in front of the instrument cluster and was not completely comfortable with it as it somewhat restricted the turning ease (which I hope like hell I don't ever need on the strip:biglaugh: ) I've seen others do it this way but wasn't really sure if it would be better anchored to the lower triple somehow and not disturbing the turning ability.

Would also like to know if struts (and what length?) would help or effect things.

Other question is if there is a 15" slick available in a width that will fit the stock wheel/swingarm, (I've got a spare wheel available to me)

A 17" rear wheel is just not in the works for me right now as my kid is starting college and I've exhausted my justification for big ticket "fun" items for now till I get a full grip on how hard college is really going to hit me. Plus when I do wheels I want to go all the way with a full set of three spoke style sport bike type rims to lose some weight.

 

[one2dmax]

Well,

I usually go to the lower tripple and fully compress the front end. Some think to leave a little movement. I will tell you that I had 2 passes that had very serious head shake about 60' out and the tower thought I was going down. it wasn't all that big a deal to me but I have watched many go down with similar issues. In fact one of my shop helpers went down 2 weeks ago with his Fazer we built. We are trying to get him into a 9.90 index and so far have a best pass of 10.11 and still not even using 6th gear so we are going to re-gear it.

I do have a 15" slick setup on a stock wheel but it takes some modifications to the wheel. You have to machine off the stock beadlocks so the wider flange of the seating surface of the tire will fit. Car slicks have thicker beads and there is no bike slick in that wheel size so you are stuck with a VW slick.

I could ship you the wheel/tire combo if you want to experiment with it. I even have a guy who wants to sell his wheelie bars if you are interested. Struts are needed with the bars but are worse if you are using just a street tire.

I only picked up 2 tenths (only had a couple of passes too) with the slick over the 17" wheel/tire.

later,
Sean Morley
[email protected]

 

[shawn kloker]

Thanks for the comments.

I could use some tips on how to strap a front end (how much to compress it, etc) and what effects it may have down the strip. I strapped it in the garage by going from the brake caliper attachment bolts and up and over/behind the upper triple in front of the instrument cluster and was not completely comfortable with it as it somewhat restricted the turning ease (which I hope like hell I don't ever need on the strip:biglaugh: ) I've seen others do it this way but wasn't really sure if it would be better anchored to the lower triple somehow and not disturbing the turning ability.

Would also like to know if struts (and what length?) would help or effect things.

Other question is if there is a 15" slick available in a width that will fit the stock wheel/swingarm, (I've got a spare wheel available to me)

A 17" rear wheel is just not in the works for me right now as my kid is starting college and I've exhausted my justification for big ticket "fun" items for now till I get a full grip on how hard college is really going to hit me. Plus when I do wheels I want to go all the way with a full set of three spoke style sport bike type rims to lose some weight.

Rusty,I have always cranked the front strap as far down as possible.I am not sure if struts would work for you with a bias tire.I do like them with a radial.You could make them cheaply.I could post pics of a set if interested.Mine are 11.5" long.Basically you could just match a stock shock with a piece of round stock.Drill holes in each end with the right size and bolt them on and try it.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Rusty,I have always cranked the front strap as far down as possible.I am not sure if struts would work for you with a bias tire.I do like them with a radial.You could make them cheaply.I could post pics of a set if interested.Mine are 11.5" long.Basically you could just match a stock shock with a piece of round stock.Drill holes in each end with the right size and bolt them on and try it.

So no need to weld collets on each end, just use big enough stock to leave some meat after drilling the holes?

Rusty

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Well,

I usually go to the lower tripple and fully compress the front end. Some think to leave a little movement. I will tell you that I had 2 passes that had very serious head shake about 60' out and the tower thought I was going down. it wasn't all that big a deal to me but I have watched many go down with similar issues. In fact one of my shop helpers went down 2 weeks ago with his Fazer we built. We are trying to get him into a 9.90 index and so far have a best pass of 10.11 and still not even using 6th gear so we are going to re-gear it.

I do have a 15" slick setup on a stock wheel but it takes some modifications to the wheel. You have to machine off the stock beadlocks so the wider flange of the seating surface of the tire will fit. Car slicks have thicker beads and there is no bike slick in that wheel size so you are stuck with a VW slick.

I could ship you the wheel/tire combo if you want to experiment with it. I even have a guy who wants to sell his wheelie bars if you are interested. Struts are needed with the bars but are worse if you are using just a street tire.

I only picked up 2 tenths (only had a couple of passes too) with the slick over the 17" wheel/tire.

later,
Sean Morley
[email protected]

I could be interested in the bars but not right away...

later

Rusty

 

[shawn kloker]

So no need to weld collets on each end, just use big enough stock to leave some meat after drilling the holes?

Rusty

I've seen them made out of just flatstock aluminum drilled at each end.

Here's a pic of mine.They are Pingel from my drag bracer wheelie bars.I have bead blasted these and repainted them since this pic was taken.