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Chef Bone

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I have a 95' max with the v-boost removed and the stage 7. It runs a little choppy at low rpm and the exhaust smells rich for sure. Now after looking a little closer, the front two carbs look really wet with fuel/oil. Are the front two carbs getting too much fuel? Too my knowledge the carbs were synced after stage seven installed, but not sure if it was done again after a two brothers 4-1 was put on it. Guy I bought it from says it was all is good, yamaha tech says something is wrong. I've read a lot of the threads on boost.....still can't decide if I should do everything over and put it back on or leave it off and fix current problem. By the way all the hoses look good and I can't fing any leaks:bang head:
 
i assume you have the individual air filters and air correctors in the carbs?

is the puke can hooked up properly that its not spitting oil onto the carbs(hence the oil wetness)?

any idea what the jets are? maybe not a jet too rich but float height setting......
how is your fuel mileage
 
Just as a starting point, I'd grab my specially fitted A/F mixture screw screwdriver and count how many turns OUT my screws are currently. Be sure to write it down because you want to go back there. Then you can do a sync though I have a feeling you don't have the tool? Anyone close maybe have a carb sync gauges?
 
with vboost gone will have to use a weber style to sync her up. unless its just locked open the vboost, any idea chef if the butterflies are still there?
 
The v- boost is sitting on my workbench, I have no idea what size the jets are other than it is a stage 7 DJ with individual k&n filters. The puke can looks correct, but then again all this was done before I owned the bike. I can tell you this, the front two filters have a lot of oil on them. As far as mileage goes I get about 90 to 95 miles and I'm looking for a gas station. I ride about 75 down the interstate for an hour each way to work. I have to be honest....I know nothing about the carbs on this bike and what should be what. I only had crotch rockets before this and everything was dialed in by people that knew what they were doing. It would nice if I had guys like you around me so I could call or roll up to the house and say look at this...is it right?
 
95 isnt bad, any plans on installing the vboost again? id go with patmax suggestion to start with a/f screws and then might have to dig into them to see the set up. not hard to do.

with filters off and bike running do you see any fuel spitting out? and are all the slides moving at idle?

you can do a wide open cut plug check to verify jets, make sure they are not too rich or lean.
 
Ok, so I had things apart doing the cop mod and then put it back together before taking some pictures. So I took it as far apart as I could without getting eaten alive. Every carb looks like the photo, and the puke can looks right, but I figured if it was wrong someone could tell by the photo.
 

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I guess I'm looking for what the a/f correctors look like....am I missing them. At idle, if I roll on the throttle a little, its like a chugging air noise and its like a dead spot. Tugla I am thinking about putting the v-boost back on and going with one of Sean's kits and having the carbs synced. Then if I can get some good suggestions on it maybe a sasy? :ummm::bang head:
 
I guess I'm looking for what the a/f correctors look like....am I missing them. At idle, if I roll on the throttle a little, its like a chugging air noise and its like a dead spot. Tugla I am thinking about putting the v-boost back on and going with one of Sean's kits and having the carbs synced. Then if I can get some good suggestions on it maybe a sasy? :ummm::bang head:

you shouldn't need to do that, if there's an issue here another jet kit won't fix it ya know? not sure what the problem is tho.
 
Well it is tough to tell for sure in pictures, but those filters look like they are in need of a good cleaning. Buy the K&N cleaning kit and wash them per the directions and re-oil them. I had a very rich condition from very dirty filters from the previous owner never cleaning them. Bike ran much better and fuel economy went up as well. Got rid of the rich unburnt fuel smell on idle too. Dirty filters is like running it on choke all the time.

Todd
 
Also, if the filters are dirty, the front ones will suck from crankcase to get the air needed. Hence why possibly the two front air filters appear wet with oil as the breather connects to your two front carbs. It is worth doing and is just normal maintenance anyways.

Todd
 
garretts right, looks like you got the air correctors. sounds like it just needs a tuning to get the bog out. adding the vbost back will make it easier to sync and also get that vboost rush back. hard to diagnose when your not around the bike.

does it pull strong all through the rpm range. any idle issues or slow rpm return to idle when you rev it up in neutral?
 
I bought a filter cleaning kit last night. They came that way from p.o. Sometimes it is slow to return to idle in nuetral, but if I open it up it peels my skin back through each gear. If I put the vboost back on will it run crappy until I sync it again? I assume so. Dealership wanted 390.00 to do the job. I don't know anyone with the equipment either.
 
I bought a filter cleaning kit last night. They came that way from p.o. Sometimes it is slow to return to idle in nuetral, but if I open it up it peels my skin back through each gear. If I put the vboost back on will it run crappy until I sync it again? I assume so. Dealership wanted 390.00 to do the job. I don't know anyone with the equipment either.

Equipment for what? Carb synch? You can build you own that is very accurate for less than $20. http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=2369&page=2

EDIT: Guess that won't work if you don't have v boost butterflies. Not sure if they are still on the bike or if you have v boost eliminator tubes installed. If you have the butterflies you should be good to go.
 
think he was thinking of installing them again.

ya good idea to sync them, lots of guys here have one that im sure they can lend out but worth buying for yourself.

slow idle could be sync job, stuck cable. with bike off if you crack the throttle does it snap shut "with authority" make loud snap noise, then you know there is no binding up and ya id say sync is off.
 
I'm in the same boat, my first Max, PO did all the mods, pretty much the same set up but I think mine still has the boost and servo working intact, I think, crash course on max mods sucks but I love the power and sound, having issues of my own on another thread.
 
Throttle is not lightning fast to return, but quick...if that makes sense. Sorry I haven't replied lately, but I ruptured my achilles tendon and had surgery. No bike riding for me rest of season:damn angry:
 
Also, as stated I put the boost and servo back in the bike. I know it will run like crap until I sync it, but will it survive the ride to the shop is the question?! NOt good for it i'm sure, but I don't have another means to get it there.
 
Where are you located Chef? Might be a member nearby with a sync tool, or as stated earlier you could build your own for a few bucks worth of tubing and some trans fluid. $390 to sync a set of carbs is friggin robbery!!!
 
^ I asked what it would cost to sych my carbs at a shop back in 2001 and they wanted around $80 if I remember correctly.
So, I immediately ordered a Morgan CarbTune (with a case) for $100 and synched them myself.
It is extremely simple and only takes about 15 minutes or so to do.
A friend walked me through it the first time, but I'm pretty sure there is a Step by Step tutorial around here somewhere now.
I've synched them every spring since then, so I'd have to say that was $100 very well spent.
Carbtune:
http://www.carbtune.com/
 

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