Copper Head Gaskets leaking

[kolzy]

Hi everyone, first of all thanks for the great information on this site my vmax runs like a dream because of this forum.

Its a a 1500 resleave (PCW) with copper head gaskets. After a few 100kms of running in the rear head gasket is weaping a very small amount of coolant. Other than replacing it or retorquing it are there any other options ? Sealant in the coolant ?

The block and heads had the faces shaved. The problem has probably come about due to having to remove the heads to clear debri from a shredded starter clutch, had to replace bearingas as well, sob sob..

I would prefer not to retorque at this stage as i dont want to remove the cams in the frame and redial them in, major pain, would prefer to wait for winter and replace them out of the frame

Rob

 

[sdt354]

Is there coolant in the oil? I'd check that after over night cooling, and time for seperation. I'll bet you can see it in the oil window if it does leak.
Steve

 

[kolzy]

nothing in the oil and nothing in the pot at this stage. all clean..

 

[sdt354]

I think at this point you should contact them-PCW. Or Sean might chime in on this.
Someone with big bore building experience would be better.
Steve

 

[one2dmax]

You should be able to pull the valve covers only and retorque. There are rubber plugs in the tops of the caps. Pull the plug, rotate the engine over (with the bolt accessible though the stator center cover), and align the hole in the cam. Then a long socketed allen will allow you to retorque them without taking the cams apart.

I am not sure if PCW used the ARP studs but if they did you can greatly increase the clamping torque compared to the stock head studs. We use 60ft lbs (compared to 30) when using the ARP studs on big bore engines. On standard engines (and 1300's) we normally torque to 45lbs.

Sean

 

[Rusty McNeil]

At one time there was word that some PCW engines were "dropping sleeves" i.e., the sleeve is slipping/moving downward and leaving only the surrounding engine case material to do the "clamping" since it is now sticking up/out further than the sleeve itself, which of course should be/remain perfectly flush with the surrounding engine case metal.

If this is happened your screwed.:bang head:

 

[bazwell]

Copper head gaskets don't crush much, so coolant leaks can be a problem.

Copper head gaskets are often re-torqued after the first time they get hot.
Some people will even start an engine for a short time without coolant(!), let it get warm, shut it down, wait for it to cool and then re-torque.

Then, after about 500-800k it would be best to do another re-torque.
The bolts settle in a little, the gasket surfaces settle a little.
Back off the bolt 1/2 a turn before torquing it up. Do that one at a time. Also do it on a stone cold engine.

So, I suggest that if the gasket was not re-torqued after it's first run, that you combine the 2 re-torques now. Get it over with before the leak sets in!