dies at lights

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diddly squat

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my vmax runs great and idles perfectly for the first 30 minutes or so.
then it will die while sitting at a light after it has heated up real good. taking off is somewhat choppy, but it runs great at partial and wot.
i'm replacing the plug wires when they come in. don't think it is fuel-related since it runs good until it gets a good heat soak.
any other ideas?
 
my vmax runs great and idles perfectly for the first 30 minutes or so.
then it will die while sitting at a light after it has heated up real good. taking off is somewhat choppy, but it runs great at partial and wot.
i'm replacing the plug wires when they come in. don't think it is fuel-related since it runs good until it gets a good heat soak.
any other ideas?
I'd check the charging system and battery health.
Steve
 
Odyssey or other premium brand if it's a battery... Older Max's don't have a real strong charging system compared to 90 and newer.... With the latest Regulator / Rectifier...
 
13.4 at idle

14.4 when revved.

no problems here.

that may not be the case when yer bike dies on you.
like other folks allready said...make absolutely shure beyond a doubt you have GOOD battery. i cant stress that enough. look behind the left side cover for the connector that hooks from the stator to the voltage regulator. make shure its not melted or corroded and either clean it or remove it all together and hard wire it. the 3 white wires can be connected in any order....this is a common failure point and should be looked at. it may or may not have anything to do with yer issue . also...the voltage regulator is another gremlin.....you should run a 12 ga wire directly from the battery ground to one of the regulator mounting bolts. its located behind the left passenger footrest . this too may or may not have anything to do with the issue...
these are 2 easy mods that should be done regardless. if it was me id bring my multimeter and check the voltage when the bike starts giving you issues.
 
i will give these suggestions a shot if the plug wires don't fix the problem, but remember this problem only arises after the bike is good and hot.

it idles perfectly until then.

thanks for the responses.
 
I had this problem as well..try the COPs mod. I have'nt stalled since I've had them. Also make sure you have heavy duty grounding
 
I'd check the charging system and battery health.
Steve

+1 But not in that order.
The easiest way to determine if your problem is electrical or fuel related - install a on-board voltmeter, permanently or temporarily. If you see your voltage drop under 12.5 or so at lights, it's your battery/charging system at fault.
I had the same symptoms - great voltage after starting, but the bike would begin to stumble, sometimes die, at traffic lights. I was using a six year old PC 680, that would hold a charge of about 12.5 volts, so I dismissed that as the problem.
I then monitored the battery voltage while the bike was parked, from cold to normal operating temperature. Sure enough, the voltage would gradually drop off, regardless of what load there was on the bike (headlight, fan, brake lights, running lights).
Next came the complete Electrosport Fault-Finding process. To the letter.
The stator and the regulator tested fine, both under cold and hot conditions. The last line of the process reads something like this;
"If all of the above checks out, the fault can only be a defective battery"
But I still didn't believe it was the battery, based on the voltage after charging (read after letting the bike sit overnight). So I replaced the stator.
Same problem. Poor voltage after heating up. So next came a new PC680.
Problem solved! Now I get 14.0 - 14.8 volts, hot or cold, depending on the load being placed on the system.
If I had gone to the Odyssey website, before changing out the stator, I would have learned that a PC680 at 12.4-12.5 volts is actually only half charged. And that a 100% charged one reads at least 12.8. And probably just as important - a dry-cell battery has a very slow failure rate - which in my case tricked me into believing the battery was still good.
Bottom line - suspect your battery as the cause of the charging system problem. Get it load-tested . Even if that checks out, if the battery is more than four years old, replace it with a dry-cell.
Cheers!
 
interesting stuff, Miles!
i can plug my voltmeter into my float charge connection easily, w/the seat still on.
i will do that test and the battery load test as well.
may be a few days, but i'll get back to you guys.
really appreciate all the help!!
 
put on new wires and plugs.
the bike idles fine now.
i did all the electronic upgrades that were mentioned and checked the battery under load and charging system when the bike started idling crappy and wanting to die. everything checked fine at the time.

appreciate the input. :clapping:
 
+1 But not in that order.
The easiest way to determine if your problem is electrical or fuel related - install a on-board voltmeter, permanently or temporarily. If you see your voltage drop under 12.5 or so at lights, it's your battery/charging system at fault.
I had the same symptoms - great voltage after starting, but the bike would begin to stumble, sometimes die, at traffic lights. I was using a six year old PC 680, that would hold a charge of about 12.5 volts, so I dismissed that as the problem.
I then monitored the battery voltage while the bike was parked, from cold to normal operating temperature. Sure enough, the voltage would gradually drop off, regardless of what load there was on the bike (headlight, fan, brake lights, running lights).
Next came the complete Electrosport Fault-Finding process. To the letter.
The stator and the regulator tested fine, both under cold and hot conditions. The last line of the process reads something like this;
"If all of the above checks out, the fault can only be a defective battery"
But I still didn't believe it was the battery, based on the voltage after charging (read after letting the bike sit overnight). So I replaced the stator.
Same problem. Poor voltage after heating up. So next came a new PC680.
Problem solved! Now I get 14.0 - 14.8 volts, hot or cold, depending on the load being placed on the system.
If I had gone to the Odyssey website, before changing out the stator, I would have learned that a PC680 at 12.4-12.5 volts is actually only half charged. And that a 100% charged one reads at least 12.8. And probably just as important - a dry-cell battery has a very slow failure rate - which in my case tricked me into believing the battery was still good.
Bottom line - suspect your battery as the cause of the charging system problem. Get it load-tested . Even if that checks out, if the battery is more than four years old, replace it with a dry-cell.
Cheers!
My bike has done that twice this month ad my battery is a few months old.
 

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