Down 5 Hp =(

[RagingMain]

Let me know what you all think
I am down 5 Hp over all, but much better in throttle response in the mid range. Was rich on October. This is where I spend most of my time anyways. Plus you can see a high rpm miss after 7k for the new one as compared to before it was straight up. Not sure if I am going to worry about that or not. Also my torque curve is not quite as flat as it was before but it is still pretty much spot on for where I do most of my cruising.
I had to rebuild my carbs because I was lean at 4.5-5 turns out on all my screws. I put in one size larger pfj (slow jet) stock is 37.5, I went to 40. Removed the shims from my needles and put the stock springs back in.
All my screws now are close to 1.5-2 turns out.

Blue is the current
Red is from October
Also I am not running the Dyna 3000 ignition right now. This might explain the high rpm drop and the lower top end horse power

 

[kaboom]

I'd get that Dyna 3000 back on right quick.......:confused2:

 

[RagingMain]

Its out for warranty and I have the COPs. Which reminds me I need to respond to the other post and adding an inline resistor.

 

[Birdoprey]

Fargo,

Looks like a 4hp difference to me
A/F looks better than last time. Are you running full ignition advance with the switch thingie? May be too much advance at high rpm. Might explain the miss as well. Happen to run it with and w/o the full advance?

 

[EvilD]

Can't see it real well, but it looks like a considerable difference in atmospheric condition between the 2 runs, that can easily account for 5 ponys

 

[RagingMain]

Fargo,

Looks like a 4hp difference to me
A/F looks better than last time. Are you running full ignition advance with the switch thingie? May be too much advance at high rpm. Might explain the miss as well. Happen to run it with and w/o the full advance?

Mark
Yes I agree the A/F looks better than last, I wonder who helped me out with that :hmmm:. Thanks brother
I am running the full advance, I wish I had set it up on a switch. Think I just might do that and try a couple of runs with and without it on.

As far as the atmospheric conditions I had thought about that as well. The only thing that concerns me was the high rpm miss, I am not up there enough to really worry about it.

 

[one2dmax]

key is how it rides. It does look like a/f is better this time around.

Sean

 

[2stangs69-91]

hmmm interesting is 13 to 1 the AF ratio you shoot for on a bike wot on a dyno? That just seems lean to me for a dyno pull. It looks like the second pull you actualy have a little lean spot around 8K. I am used to drag cars so you have to forgive my ignorance lol.

 

[Birdoprey]

Mark
Yes I agree the A/F looks better than last, I wonder who helped me out with that :hmmm:. Thanks brother
I am running the full advance, I wish I had set it up on a switch. Think I just might do that and try a couple of runs with and without it on.

As far as the atmospheric conditions I had thought about that as well. The only thing that concerns me was the high rpm miss, I am not up there enough to really worry about it.

Fargo,

Not a problem at all there buddy. Glad it was of some use for ya.

It will be interesting to see what it does on a switch and compare runs. I'm guessing that you'll see more hp/tq down low and up into the midrange with the full advance, and i'm gonna guess that you may actually see more hp up top with OUT the full advance. If you do indeed see this, it might be fun to make a run with it ON up until the rpm where you see the hp fall(comparing previous runs w/o the advance) and then flip the switch. If this happens to indeed be the case(more hp up top w/o full advance), you might wire the switch through a window switch and have it automatically switch from on to off at a specific rpm. Best of both worlds. Of course, if you see more hp all the way up, well the choice would be obvious.

 

[RagingMain]

key is how it rides. It does look like a/f is better this time around.

Sean

It is running much better in the midrange, throttle is crisper and bike responds better.
Unless we do some cam work I think we have this engine maxed out? What do you think???

The guy did do something for me though that I forgot to report. He put it in 5th gear and ran at 4000 rpm to simulate where I do most of my riding and it was right at 15:1 while cruising. Obviously this is just a tiny bit lean. Would this present any type of long term problems???

Fargo,

Not a problem at all there buddy. Glad it was of some use for ya.

It will be interesting to see what it does on a switch and compare runs. I'm guessing that you'll see more hp/tq down low and up into the midrange with the full advance, and i'm gonna guess that you may actually see more hp up top with OUT the full advance. If you do indeed see this, it might be fun to make a run with it ON up until the rpm where you see the hp fall(comparing previous runs w/o the advance) and then flip the switch. If this happens to indeed be the case(more hp up top w/o full advance), you might wire the switch through a window switch and have it automatically switch from on to off at a specific rpm. Best of both worlds. Of course, if you see more hp all the way up, well the choice would be obvious.

That would be interesting mod. Will have to work on this and see how it comes out. I do know that with the full advance, or Dyna 3000, the bike has a completely different profile when just cruising around town and on the highway, I am sure this is due to the partial throttle instead of WOT. It was an easy mod and I can honestly say it is one of the best things to do to "Wake Up" our engines.

hmmm interesting is 13 to 1 the AF ratio you shoot for on a bike wot on a dyno? That just seems lean to me for a dyno pull. It looks like the second pull you actualy have a little lean spot around 8K. I am used to drag cars so you have to forgive my ignorance lol.

I noticed the difference in the A/F at 8k as well but dont know if it is contributing to the high rpm miss since the drop in HP/TQ happens sooner than 8k. I am open to all input that will help me maximize the power of this thing. I told Sean from the beginning I want a strong engine that will be reliable for me. He delivered on that 100%.

 

[one2dmax]

lean cruise is normal and not a problem at all. The pistons will take plenty of anything you want to throw at them. Cams would be next and then a power added like NOS.

Sean

 

[RagingMain]

Hey Mark (BOP) wha is a window switch. Tried googling it and all that came up was power window switches for cars.:confused2:

 

[Birdoprey]

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=3181003&showprevnext=1

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=5008911&showprevnext=1

With the MSD window switch, you can have it activate your full advance mod at say 1500rpm and kick it off at say 7000rpm. This way you will have easier starts and also not have the full advance at idle. The stk V-max setup does not advance below 1500rpm anyway so it will be closer to stk but not operate via the map sensor.
Nifty, huh?

 

[Birdoprey]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MSD-...456QQitemZ150332726456QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

 

[RagingMain]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MSD-...456QQitemZ150332726456QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

Thanks Mark. I am going to put a toggle switch on and have the Dyno guy turn off the advance at 7k and see what happens. If it works I will get this.
I sent your LM-1 back. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!! It helped very much in getting the bike set up right and definately improved the ride ability. Thanks again

 

[Birdoprey]

If you can, i would definately do a before and after(one with advance switched on, and one with it switched off, that way you can get a good comparrison. If you are able, i would then do one and switch it off at 7K.
You sure your done with the LM-1? Glad it was helpful to ya!

 

[RagingMain]

Yep I am all done with it. I do appreciate it.