front rotors

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I think you maybe don't understand. To get incredible braking on the 85-92 forks you only need the larger rotors, set of gen 1 hayabusa calipers, and my adapters. Everything else will work just fine. 2 finger very progressive and controllable power!

Sean
 
Oh, if that's the case, then that is a good way to go & doesn't require a big layout. Thanks for the education, always learning.
 
I don't know if the early front end & adapters is the "best option." Not to me. Locating a 43 mm '93+ triple trees & downtubes/sliders allows you to use the stock front wheel. eliminates speedo problems, allows mounting all stock accessories where they belong, i.e., handlebars, headlight, speedo, turn signals, brake splitter, fender, femder & fork brace... . About the only thing you have to do is get the '93+ 298 mm rotors and make sure your new calipers will fit. The 100 mm caliper spacing of the '93+ brakes allows a variety of calipers to be used, and if you want to keep it in the family, you can use 1000 cc FZR/YZF/R1 calipers, although for some of those calipers you may need the 320 mm rotors. The 1994 FZR1000 used a 6 pot caliper. No adapter needed. With a set of HH pads & s.s. brake lines, you have an upgrade which will cost far less than going with an USD sportbike front end. You could do the whole thing in a 2-3 hr. period if you already had good steering head bearings and didn't have to fit new ones. You don't have to use 'slugs' on the sportbike downtubes and since it's a 'remove & replace' effort, the average guy can do it in their carport and have the bike done in an afternoon, no machinists, no adapters, no expensive parts sourcing, and if you want, it can even be all-Yamaha.

If all you want to do is change calipers/rotors, then yes, the adapters for the early front end will save you a bit of dosh, as our Brit friends like to say.

Sure there's more than one way to do this, and that's the beauty of this bike isn't it? You can choose a path, easy or difficult, inexpensive or $$$, and arrive at a similar place. Any way you go, it's better than the stock pre-'93 front end, if you go to the '93+ front end at a minimum. In my opinion, spending $ on the '92-earlier front end just isn't worth the $, not when you can upgrade so easily. Just shop the parts sources, buy stuff on-sale/used, and when you have the parts acquisition completed, a few hours will result in a big change in the bike's road performance.

I do agree mate and its like Sean says... Be careful not to bend the 41mm stanchions with excessive braking power... :rofl_200:
 
I think you maybe don't understand. To get incredible braking on the 85-92 forks you only need the larger rotors, set of gen 1 hayabusa calipers, and my adapters. Everything else will work just fine. 2 finger very progressive and controllable power!

Sean
See thats all the info I needed.
So I will get stock newer rotors from a 99-2000, brackets from Sean for the busa 6 pot calipers and prolly new lines.

One more time though WHAT YEARS are the gen1 busa calipers as ebay usually list by year and sometimes not even that. Are they 99-07?:ummm:
 
I sell all the parts but you can get them cheaper on ebay most of the time though if theres a problem getting it taken care of might be a bit trickier! 93+ Vmax Rotors, and many years R1 (99-03 for sure). Hayabusa calipers 99-07.

Sean
 
LOL, you can't bend the forks but you'll be amazed at what the factory could have done with just a few years newer technology!
 
found this info on ebay;

This is a used take-off Yamaha OEM front brake rotor from a Yamaha Vstar 1300, but it will fit all 2004-2011 Yamaha Road Star 1700 models, 93-07 Yamaha Vmax models, 98-03 Yamaha R1 models, AND all Yamaha V-Star 1100 and 1300 models.

Did you all know this?






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If its 132/150/298 like i think it is it works fine... Eventhough those are not Vmax. Those have 7 bushings and vmax has 10... Rather use R1 or R6 or FJR, etc. You can find them easily...
 
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Good catch on the mounting bolt #. i recently did the '93+ front end on my '92 and had to chisel-out one of those puppies which just wouldn't break loose. As far as the # of mounting bolts, by upgrading the bolt size & metallurgy, the factory could reduce the # of fasteners, and it would probably be lighter. During the old Trans Am car series, when Roger Penske was hired to campaign American Motors cars, he found they could use 4 bolt wheels just fine, and it cut down on the wheel changing time in the pits. That was before he was elected to the Board of Directors of GM, and not too long after he won the Speed Week race in Nassau (a big race party held at the end of the season), after which he decided to give up driving and concentrate on the business world.
 
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