Fuel filter leads to bigger problems...

[VMAX NV]

So I got my fuel filter in the mail (OEM $18) and replaced it (15K miles) and found my old one was full of big reddish-black flakes which I can only assume is rust from the fuel tank. :damn angry:

So now I gotta fix that. Probably just easier to have a place coat the tank. Or even buy a used rust-free one...

Then get my carbs cleaned or something. After reading a bunch of posts it sounds like some of the symptoms I've been having (low MPG, some popping when starting, a "flat spot" sometimes while accelerating) have been blamed on rust from gas tank getting into the carbs and clogging the jets or whatever.

So who can clean/check out my carbs and for how much? Not a total overhaul, but mostly just clean them real good and make sure the screws work and make sure the bowls/jets/screws and stuff are set correctly and in working order...

or should I just do it myself and send it to Sean when I fuck it up?:rofl_200:

 

[sdt354]

Won't cost anything to drain the bowls into a clean jar, shotgun the carbs, then go for a ride. I'd scope the tank and see how bad it is too.It might extend your riding time. I change my fuel filter yearly now. I think the 15k recommended filter change was without ethanol consideration. Just my h.o.
Steve-o

 

[SpecOps13]

I feel better knowing that others have the same kinda BS Problems I would have. Sorry it's you. Drain your carbs in a clean cup or jar. Line runs under each carb, Philips Screw is midway on the right side of each carb. Most likely to be a problem is the front left carb. It's a straight shot for crap coming in with the fuel. It is also the lowest carb when the bike's on the side stand, more possibility of garbage getting in to it...

As mentioned, run or drain the tank and get a look with a flashlight. If it's bad, Your safest route would be a very very good used tank or a new one... Coatings can be a RPITA...

15,000 miles is way too long for a fuel filter when using ethanol,, Treat the gas too...


Good Luck,,,

 

[alorio1]

+1 on all the post above......Check with Captainkyle or Sean for a rust free tank while all the above suggestions are being done. Keep in mind that if you pull the carbs , and who ever disassembles them you will still need to sync them when they are back on the bike. Might want to hook up with a friend that has a sync meter and the know how. Just my .02 cents

 

[VMAX NV]

+1 on all the post above......Check with Captainkyle or Sean for a rust free tank while all the above suggestions are being done. Keep in mind that if you pull the carbs , and who ever disassembles them you will still need to sync them when they are back on the bike. Might want to hook up with a friend that has a sync meter and the know how. Just my .02 cents

Yep, I already had a CarbTune on order before I found these problems...

 

[alorio1]

I would drain the bowls first and see how much settlement comes out and proceed with the shot gun method. It works well most of the time. You have to remove the A/F screws to do the procedure. Do get a screwdriver that fits well or you will strip the head on the A/F screw and then you will have to send it to Sean to have it removed and replaced. I made me a screw driver that fits good and snug in an A/F screw by grinding the shaft of screwdriver to fit the hole and then filed the tip so it fit the screw head just right. I know of people who have used a tiny pocket screw driver with a small blade on the tip and would always wind up stripping a head on one of their A/F screws. Spray some PB Blaster in the A/F screw holes and that may help also on the removal of the screws.

 

[VMAX NV]

So I finally looked into the tank with a flashlight thru about a gallon of gas and saw this. It's rusty around the filler tube and down at the bottom around the bolt or whatever that is next to the sensor. The rest that I could see doesn't look so bad, but there's a lot I can't see that might be bad.

So I found a good tank and will be swapping it out.

Should I coat the new tank just to make sure it doesn't rust in the future?

 

[m-cman]

Over the years I have coated many tanks using several manufacturers products. My personal recommendations are:

KBS Tank Kit - They make a motorcycle kit. Three steps. Have done 3 tanks with this including my current Max.

Eastwood Tank Kit - Hardest to do. About 12 steps including buying two additional products (MEK and Muriatic Acid). Coating looks similar to Kreem but probably stays better due to the involved installation process. Did one tank with this.

POR or similar phosphoric acid treatment. Did one tank with this. Not exactly a coating but converts rust to inert metal.

I would not recommend Kreem.

Just my experience.

 

[alorio1]

m-cman, someone posted a tank cleaner that had a link to the video or it may have had the video in the thread, but it looked like some awesome tank cleaner. Is this one of the products you used or mentiond in you post?

 

[m-cman]

Haven't seen that video so can't comment. There are several methods to fix rust. Most clean, prep, then coat the tank. Others convert the rust. Just removing the rust without some sort of protection would mean rust would come back. The POR (phosphoric acid) kit I used was from Sudco but there are several companies providing similar products. There is a method a friend used recommended by a VJMC member. Can't remember the details but it was cheap and used simple hosehold products. Something like Coca-Cola or baking soda and a battery and metal strip. Problem was the tank was so bad and the treatment removed the rust so well that most of the bottom of the tank was gone. :doh:

 

[alorio1]

I finally found the thread I was looking for m-cman.....look at post #4 by KJshover.


http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=18100&highlight=tank+cleaning


Link to Summit Race team , who is a dealer: http://www.summitracing.com/search/...autoview=SKU&gclid=CPq2x57o7KkCFQsS2godVXvkbg

 

[m-cman]

This funny. I just saw a demo about this product on 2 Guys Garage. Definitely would give it a try. Seems similar to the phosphoric acid or POR treatments.

 

[alorio1]

Looked impressive to me m-cman.......and I think it sells for 25 bucks per gallon which is all one should need. Who knows, you may be able to save what you pour out of the tank and reuse it.

 

[Got V-Boost?]

I noticed some rust in the bottom of my tank when I shined a flashlight in there this weekend. Glad I found this thread! I just ordered the tank sealer kit from KBS so we'll see how it works.

 

[m-cman]

I noticed some rust in the bottom of my tank when I shined a flashlight in there this weekend. Glad I found this thread! I just ordered the tank sealer kit from KBS so we'll see how it works.

Be sure and follow the instructions and timing to the letter. If you don't, flash rust can develop. I've done 3 tanks with the KBS and so far am happy.

 

[VMAX NV]

Anyone use POR-15? Better or worse than KBS?