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Olds Guy

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Joined
Sep 29, 2013
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Location
Nebraska
Here are a couple of pictures of my bike, not the best pictures I just realized but something to start with.

Had to charge the battery when I got it home, spray carb cleaner in it to get it started, running a lot better but a ways to go. I did put some BG 44K in the tank to run thru the carbs but been to busy to get much seat time!! If it doesn't clean them up they will come off as soon as the snow flies - but not before! There is a filter relocate on it but I am not sure what came firts..the kit or the broken filter mount...looks like there will be some steel braided lines and aluminum an fittings going on it this winter. It has aftermarket rims - not sure what type and a big back tire with the drive tube notched for it. It supposed to have the ring gear(that is what I a m calling it) switched to a stronger set. It does tach at 4000@65 mph. There was a lot of jaw moving from the seller and I am sure 90% was crap about what was all done to the bike but I liked it and it was cheap as he had it for sale for awhile and I used the mad skills of cash.:eusa_dance:

Like most of the things I buy - I have to drag them home and get them running before I can drive them and this was no different....
 

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Those look like stock wheels from a "not '85". 110-90 18(f) and 150-90 15(r) are stock sizes. You're gonna want to raise your forks back up in the trees so you don't destroy your radiator. You also have some pretty short rear progressive shocks (I think). Not stock bars/risers. Relocated speedo. It's possible you have a Venture final drive. That would drop your RPM by 10% in all gears. It looks the same as the stock one once it's had the shock stud installed. Cut down/reshaped stock seat. I'm thinking Sportmax, but Sean will be along soon enough to say whether it's one of his or not.

Glad you're here. This site has more information than you'll ever need.
 
Not Too bad, I'm sure once you get it cleaned up it'll look great !!!
As stated above, Slide those Fork Tubes back down to a Maximum of 1" above the Triple tree or your front fender will hit your radiator on hard braking.
OR You can add the Progressive Springs Internal lowering kit to get it back down and tighten up the front.
 
Better protect your Olds convertible from a certain "Mr. T," who is cruising the west just north of you, looking for an Olds project! 350, 425, or 455? Looks like an "S" model.

Take a look at the front of the engine case where the adapter for the filter is, did he crack the case, and do this 'repair' of fitting the remote filter to 'save' the engine cases? Man, that is ugly, and not necessary! I'd go back to stock if you can. And do push the downtubes level w/the top triple tree unless you're short.

"Tuglia:" divert south, target acquisition! Execute intercept.
 
Yes on the forks, they slide them down to lower the front and the fender is scratched from the radiator screen. The case is actually missing a chunk where the filter goes...I will do my best this winter to "clean it up".

Thanks for any information!! I am super excited to start doing stuff...and learning.
 
4000 @ 65 mph sounds like stock Max gearing to me, a lot of us run a 170/80 tire on the back, a little larger than stock and still fits, I like the looks of your Max, check out the thread for oldest surviving Max, post up the last 4 digits of your vin..................Tom.
 
Nice 68 and nice Vmax, two of my passions as well! I have a 68 but mine is backhalfed with a 12 point cage, I have a 468 BBO (that's where the 468 in my screen name comes from) almost ready to go for it..

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
 
This is the machine work I did to the Olds, now I am turning towards the bike....
cutlass002.jpg
 

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Eaton screw-type positive-displacement blower, MSD A-6 ignition box, MSD coil, looks like iron heads still, w/billet rocker covers? Or are the rocker covers welded-up from sheet stock? Mass-air & port injection? Did you do the fuel rails too?
 
Eaton m112, FAST Classic EFI, stock 1968 bottom end with smog #7 heads on it to lower the compression, performer RPM cam, 43 lb injectors, port injected - bought blank rails and did the rest, it is a speed density system. When I first got it together I had the boost bypass wrong an it was only getting 3.5 lbs of boost. It made 325 rwhp and 390 ft lbs of tq. That is roughly 375 crank hp, 475 ft lbs of tq. I have it getting 8 lbs of boost now so it might be around 400 or so at the tires....not bad for a stock 1968 350...old school heads and all. Just a cruiser....

I use to have a 468 Chevy in it with No2 - so I do know fast...
 
Those look like stock wheels from a "not '85". 110-90 18(f) and 150-90 15(r) are stock sizes. You're gonna want to raise your forks back up in the trees so you don't destroy your radiator. You also have some pretty short rear progressive shocks (I think). Not stock bars/risers. Relocated speedo. It's possible you have a Venture final drive. That would drop your RPM by 10% in all gears. It looks the same as the stock one once it's had the shock stud installed. Cut down/reshaped stock seat. I'm thinking Sportmax, but Sean will be along soon enough to say whether it's one of his or not.

Glad you're here. This site has more information than you'll ever need.

Great, thank you .:punk::hmmm:
 
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