New Old Member with 05

[Vjanus88]

I bought an 05 years ago when my kids were little they are all grown and out of College now, it was mostly original with around 6000 miles, due to job wife and kids it sat on garage under a cover too long.
Recently retired thus the OLD member so I started to revive it, took it out washed it polished the chrome bits, changed the coolant, and coolant switch, oil and filter, new E3 Plugs, rebuilt forks, new original Bridgestone type tires, trying to keep bike as original as I can. New rear brakes, new rear shocks, spray cleaned carbs, synced, checked needles, new starter, new battery. Starts easy runs pretty good, idles well. Changed to full synthetic 10-40, It has 70 psi oil pressure when it's cold, settles down to 40 when your riding and 18-20 at the light. It rides and feels so much better with new tires and suspension set to my weight. Cooling fan works now, can find neutral at the light now, But I could see too much fuel going down number one when I synced carbs and sometimes it misfires and spits back. I can't live with that. Besides them being dirty it's too rich somebody changed somethings in the carbs. Will rebuild carbs as soon as I get a chance and set them back to factory. I have to admit I have hit the Vboost more than once and she likes it, and so do I.

 

[Fire-medic]

Consider dropping 1 or 2 sizes on the main jets. 150 or 147.5 will make it run well. They are a bit rich from the factory.


Here's a factory service manual. Be sure to read it to see how it is organized. The first ~64pp. are annual revisions as changes were made. After that is the entire bike, by areas: engine, chassis, electrical, carburetors, etc. Look at the Appendix as it lists bolt/screw/nut sizes, and torque values, specifications, electrical schematics, and more.

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf
It will carburete better if you remove the carbs, disassemble them, and use an ultrasonic bath, with the jet block off, and the brass jets removed. The pilot jet is a very-small diameter. It plugs easily, and sometimes running a fine wire through it is the only way to remove hardened deposits.

You can usually keep the carburetors separated into left and right pairs for the ultrasonic bath. Just be sure to purge all water from the passages and the starting enrichener cylinders, do not let them sit with water in them, as they will seize-up.


Out of adjustment starting/enrichener pistons



The enrichener pistons are not cheap!



The jet block contains these two brass jets, they unscrew, carefully choose the proper size tip screwdriver to remove them.



The float level setting is critical to the carburetors operating properly. This is a dry setting, once on the bike you can check the wet setting, it's in the manual.



Splitting the 4 carburetors into left and right pairs for cleaning. Most of the time. you can just disassemble them like this. The screws between the carburetors are for balancing the rack.



The pilot jet, inside the jet block, under the float bowl, which must be removed to access the jet block. This l'il fellah can become plugged and causes all sorts of problems in low-speed operation.



The pilot jet with a thin SS wire in it to poke-out hardened deposits.

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

Consider dropping 1 or 2 sizes on the main jets. 150 or 147.5 will make it run well. They are a bit rich from the factory.

View attachment 90125
Here's a factory service manual. Be sure to read it to see how it is organized. The first ~64pp. are annual revisions as changes were made. After that is the entire bike, by areas: engine, chassis, electrical, carburetors, etc. Look at the Appendix as it lists bolt/screw/nut sizes, and torque values, specifications, electrical schematics, and more.

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf
It will carburete better if you remove the carbs, disassemble them, and use an ultrasonic bath, with the jet block off, and the brass jets removed. The pilot jet is a very-small diameter. It plugs easily, and sometimes running a fine wire through it is the only way to remove hardened deposits.

You can usually keep the carburetors separated into left and right pairs for the ultrasonic bath. Just be sure to purge all water from the passages and the starting enrichener cylinders, do not let them sit with water in them, as they will seize-up.

View attachment 90125
Out of adjustment starting/enrichener pistons

View attachment 90126

The enrichener pistons are not cheap!

View attachment 90127

The jet block contains these two brass jets, they unscrew, carefully choose the proper size tip screwdriver to remove them.

View attachment 90128

The float level setting is critical to the carburetors operating properly. This is a dry setting, once on the bike you can check the wet setting, it's in the manual.

View attachment 90129View attachment 90130View attachment 90131

Splitting the 4 carburetors into left and right pairs for cleaning. Most of the time. you can just disassemble them like this. The screws between the carburetors are for balancing the rack.

View attachment 90132

The pilot jet, inside the jet block, under the float bowl, which must be removed to access the jet block. This l'il fellah can become plugged and causes all sorts of problems in low-speed operation.

View attachment 90134

The pilot jet with a thin SS wire in it to poke-out hardened deposits.

View attachment 90135

"It will carburete better if you remove the carbs, disassemble them, and use an ultrasonic bath, with the jet block off, and the brass jets removed. The pilot jet is a very-small diameter. It plugs easily, and sometimes running a fine wire through it is the only way to remove hardened deposits.

You can usually keep the carburetors separated into left and right pairs for the ultrasonic bath. Just be sure to purge all water from the passages and the starting enrichener cylinders, do notlet them sit with water in them, as they will seize-up".

I would disagree with sonic cleaning a pair of split carbs as you would still have a coasting enricher on one side or a cut off valve on the the other and rubber or gasket material does not agree with detergent - also there are passages underneath each that require a thorough cleaning.

 

[Fire-medic]

"It will carburete better if you remove the carbs, disassemble them, and use an ultrasonic bath, with the jet block off, and the brass jets removed. The pilot jet is a very-small diameter. It plugs easily, and sometimes running a fine wire through it is the only way to remove hardened deposits.

You can usually keep the carburetors separated into left and right pairs for the ultrasonic bath. Just be sure to purge all water from the passages and the starting enrichener cylinders, do notlet them sit with water in them, as they will seize-up".

I would disagree with sonic cleaning a pair of split carbs as you would still have a coasting enricher on one side or a cut off valve on the the other and rubber or gasket material does not agree with detergent - also there are passages underneath each that require a thorough cleaning.

I suggest you follow the probably universal procedure of blowing-out the passages with air, if you do not currently.

 

[CaptainKyle]

Welcome

 

[Coastal Grey]

Nice bike
I had a stock 2005 I really did like it a lot great trolling bike
Enjoy, stay outta shit, rubber down

Cheers Peter

Oh yes I forgot. SEAFOAM!!!

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

I suggest you follow the probably universal procedure of blowing-out the passages with air, if you do not currently.

If you don't completely disassemble the two sets of carbs you split into halves you cannot blow through with a cut-off valve and a coasting enricher still attached.

 

[dannymax]

Dissemble to this extent or there will be several areas left uncleaned. The enrichers have already been apart, cleaned and back together in this photo.

 

[Fire-medic]

Yes, that's the "to the bare-bones" strip-down.

I usually just split 'em into left/right pairs, because I purge any water out before reassembly, as soon as they come out of the ultrasonic bath. dannymax is the authority here, along with Sean Morley and CaptainKyle

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

Yes, that's the "to the bare-bones" strip-down.

I usually just split 'em into left/right pairs, because I purge any water out before reassembly, as soon as they come out of the ultrasonic bath. dannymax is the authority here, along with Sean Morley and CaptainKyle

Cut-off valves will usually wear out quicker than slide diaphragms so they need to be checked more often requiring complete teardown. Really seems a waste of time and effort once you have removed them to not separate them completely.

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

Yes, that's the "to the bare-bones" strip-down.

I usually just split 'em into left/right pairs, because I purge any water out before reassembly, as soon as they come out of the ultrasonic bath. dannymax is the authority here, along with Sean Morley and CaptainKyle

Not quite "to the bare bones " as he left the holders to the float needle valves attached.

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

Not quite "to the bare bones " as he left the holders to the float needle valves attached.

 

[Vjanus88]

Ok let me explain why I said what I did, when I took my diaphragms apart this is the order somebody had assembled them.
Which cannot be right because the spring will do nothing and the needle will just float around moving in and out randomly because there is no washer above the circlip to push down on. I found no diagrams anywhere in my manuals or on the internet for this stock needle with no adjustability. Looks like somebody tried to adjust it by putting the washer under the circlip,
and a copper shim also trying to richen it up, does anybody have the correct configuration for a stock 2005?
Correct me if I am wrong lose the shim, put the washer on top?
Thank You

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

Ok let me explain why I said what I did, when I took my diaphragms apart this is the order somebody had assembled them.
Which cannot be right because the spring will do nothing and the needle will just float around moving in and out randomly because there is no washer above the circlip to push down on. I found no diagrams anywhere in my manuals or on the internet for this stock needle with no adjustability. Looks like somebody tried to adjust it by putting the washer under the circlip,
and a copper shim also trying to richen it up, does anybody have the correct configuration for a stock 2005?
Correct me if I am wrong lose the shim, put the washer on top?
Thank You

Correct order is C-clip on the needle, plastic washer with nipple underneath-(make sure it gets dropped into its slot in the slide) washer on top then spring on top of washer-drop the plastic cap after needle is inserted and tighten the cap---pull on the bottom of the needle and it should move about 1/4" up and down----Some put 1 2mm washer under the C-clip to richen the mix-also tie a few rounds in the large slide springs for quicker lift.

 

[Vjanus88]

Thanks You all, I got the carbs removed, stripped, cleaned, adjusted, reassembled, back on the bike, and synced.
Starts easier and idles better, runs smoother, no more spitting or missing, I am not saying it was easy, I almost gave up a couple of times, but it's done and I don't remember if it ran this good when I first got it like ten years ago.
The sick thing is I now know what every part is in the above picture and where it goes.
And yes I remember the two stroke triples, I had a Kawi 500 in high school, with Wiseco pistons, ported, balanced, racing clutch, tt seat and rear end, crap for tires, and no brakes or handling.
My hand would shake every time I went to put the key in the ignition, because I was 16 years old, 120 Lbs and knew without a shadow of a doubt "It wanted to kill me".