New to VMAX and need some advise

[Modaguy818]

Hello fellow riders, vmaxers
I bought a 2001 VMax with the carbon fiber color (don’t know if it’s stock or after market). I got on very good deal but right after i noticed the brakes are very weak like they grab way later than they supposed to with brand new pads in the front and rear.

The bike will also wanting to stall when I’m idling after a long run, starts only with chock on and there was oil residue at the rear of the back cylinders. I took the bike to the shop and he suggested that my forks are leaking and that’s what’s causing the brakes to be weak. As I recall I didn’t see any oil on the front forks.

Also the shop suggested brand new rotors/pads/brake lines/valve cover gasket/forks rebuilt/ carbs cleaning and syncing and he goes about the LED lights cant be done cuz of how the light is designed and can’t fit a new head light in there and a digital odometer/analog RPM.

All that said makes me feel that he is trying to get me. I might not know about Vmax much but I think that shop is feeding me horse shit. He wanting to charge me $3500 and I agreed but that lights BS are is telling me , I just can’t get over it and my last question, is removing the silencers off the super trap exhaust could cuz the bike not to run smooth?

if any one knows some LED head light bulb that fits directly without having to take the front cowl off and can send me a link I would greatly appreciate it and if some one knows of a place where I can go to get the head light and tail light blinkers and digital tach installed, I’m open o suggestion.
im in Richardson Texas.

Thanks for ready and key shiny side up

 

[Jack Hammer]

I'm in North San Antonio, TX. Ride over and I'll take a look over some day during weekend. I'll tell you what you will really need for the bike. Bring me a 12-pack of Modelo and call it even.

 

[Modaguy818]

I'm in North San Antonio, TX. Ride over and I'll take a look over some day during weekend. I'll tell you what you will really need for the bike. Bring me a 12-pack of Modelo and call it even.

Thanks for the warm welcoming, I wish I would have posted here any earlier. But a ride up to San Antonio sounds wouldn’t be bad and sound like fun after it’s all done and did which I shall see how it turns out after that shop do what they say are going to do.

 

[Fire-medic]

No, you don't probably need all that he's telling you to buy.

Read this, save it on your computer, and print-out a copy and put it in a 3 ring binder. You will be referring to this frequently with the bike, as you do work. The first 64 p. are annual updates, then the shop manual starts. The Appendix has fastener sizes, labels for fasteners, torque values, cable and electrical routings on the bike, and much more.

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/new-vmax-owner-faqs-new-members-please-read.21240/
brand new rotors/pads/brake lines/valve cover gasket/forks rebuilt/ carbs cleaning and syncing and he goes about the LED lights cant be done cuz of how the light is designed and can’t fit a new head light in there and a digital odometer/analog RPM.

You can fit a better headlamp than the 5"+ OEM size. A popular replacement is a H-D VRod bucket. Search on the forum (upper-right corner) for info on larger headlamps, and the VRod piece.

If your rotors aren't worn unevenly, or past the minimum thickness, going to HH pads for the front and adding stainless steel brake lines in-front will make a significant change in braking power. What does the brake fluid in the master cyl's for the brakes and clutch appear to be? If it's not clear, and now it's opaque, black, it's overdue for a complete fluid change for the brakes and the clutch. DOT 4 is a good choice, easy to obtain, higher boiling point than DOT 3, and you will be purging all the bad, contaminated fluid, helping your pieces inside to resist corrosion, and improving your brake/clutch functions. Use the search function to look for reverse-bleeding of the systems.

Warning! Do Not Buy the 'four carburetors in one' kits off ebay! Their parts often do not fit, their gaskets have been known to cause issues, and it's a waste of time to try to make them perform.

Your bike probably does need a thorough carb cleaning, which means removal from the bike, and at a minimum, disassembling them to front and rear pairs to allow access to the jet blocks, where two of the three brass jets are located inside. The main jet is on the outside of the jet block. Cleaning with an ultrasonic cleaner is how I prefer to do the carbs. The pilot jet has the smallest orifice, and it's not uncommon to have one or more of those plugged. You can poke through any hardened deposits in the jets if needed, make sure you don't gouge the soft brass passageways.

Two things which make huge differences in how the bike carburates properly, besides having clean jets and passageways are

• float levels
• synchronization properly performed

Refer to the 'bench-method' of dry-setting the float needle valves (picture below, instructions in the carburetor section of the factory service manual) for the float levels.

The Yamaha Service Manual also has how to synchronize the carburetors properly. Without synchronizing, your carbs may 'hang-up' when you release the throttle, and idle at several thousand RPM, instead of at 1100 rpm as the manual specifies.

Synchronization will make the bike idle properly, and display good throttle response, off-idle. It's amazing at the difference it can make. Buying even an inexpensive of analog-style bourdon tube gauges off ebay will pay for themselves with one use.



I have a set by EMGO like these, and they have worked for me for over 40 years. There are fluid ones (Motion Pro), and electronic ones (Digi-Synch, on the top of the page banner advertisement), but you don't need to spend $$$ for something which gives good results. Pit Posse is a good place to buy motorcycle-specific tools.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2919073839...d=&campid=5338413729&toolid=10001&mpt=2724468





The pilot jet which is often the source of erratic low-speed operation (below) & w/a single SS strand of wire thru it.




Jack Hammer should be able to give you a good review of things.

 

[Jack Hammer]

Definitely not. All that shit sounds like a worst case of ripoff.

 

[Modaguy818]

when I read his reviews online I felt very confident taking the bike there and had to wait months cuz I wasn’t around on the shop working hours till I finally did. Again for what’s he doing I should notice a big difference.
I still want to get some lights added. Front and rear and Im here searching the forums for any plug and play lights threads.
thank you all for the reply.

 

[Fire-medic]

Do you have any mechanical skills, and tools? You don't need all those things, probably. Things leaking, yes those should be fixed. Frayed, worn pieces of casing flaking-off hydraulic cables, means those cables should be replaced. Worn or oil-soaked brake pads should be replaced. Leaking calipers should be rebuilt or replaced. What shape are the fork downtubes in? If they're rusty and pitted, it's a useless thing to replace fork seals, as they will get torn-up by the flaking hard-chrome, shredding the seals to bits. Try Race-Tech or Forking by Frank for replacement fork downtubes.

I would skip the digital odometer/speedometer and the rear taillight for now. You don't need either one. Get the worn-out pieces replaced first. Get needed servicing done. Save the optional stuff for later. Make it run well, safely, and reliably. Later, do the other things. Having a better headlamp is one of the things I liked on my bike, because I felt the need for more than OEM-provided illumination.

PinWall Cycle Parts in OH is a good source of reasonably-priced used parts. PinWall Cycle Parts Inc | eBay Stores There are also numerous people here who sell new and used parts, Sean Morley [email protected] and CaptainKyle [email protected] Check the sale section for parts, as other members sell parts they don't need.

 

[Modaguy818]

Do you have any mechanical skills, and tools? You don't need all those things, probably. Things leaking, yes those should be fixed. Frayed, worn pieces of casing flaking-off hydraulic cables, means those cables should be replaced. Worn or oil-soaked brake pads should be replaced. Leaking calipers should be rebuilt or replaced. What shape are the fork downtubes in? If they're rusty and pitted, it's a useless thing to replace fork seals, as they will get torn-up by the flaking hard-chrome, shredding the seals to bits. Try Race-Tech or Forking by Frank for replacement fork downtubes.

I would skip the digital odometer/speedometer and the rear taillight for now. You don't need either one. Get the worn-out pieces replaced first. Get needed servicing done. Save the optional stuff for later. Make it run well, safely, and reliably. Later, do the other things. Having a better headlamp is one of the things I liked on my bike, because I felt the need for more than OEM-provided illumination.

PinWall Cycle Parts in OH is a good source of reasonably-priced used parts. PinWall Cycle Parts Inc | eBay Stores There are also numerous people here who sell new and used parts, Sean Morley [email protected] and CaptainKyle [email protected] Check the sale section for parts, as other members sell parts they don't need.

I have mechanical skills on cars doing brake jobs, oil changes, alignment like The minor things, but bikes I worry because I just can’t feel comfortable working on my motorcycle. I loved the bike for the 3 months I had it and wasn’t riding it much because of the worrying about the things you mentioned reliability or any other things that could interrupt the joy of being on a Vmax.

I will wait as you suggested on the lights and cosmetic and looking forward picking up the bike after having all those items I mentioned taking care of and will ride it more often and will report back.

thanks so much for your inputs and hope y’all have a great weeken.

keep shiny side up

 

[Fire-medic]

Jack Hammer may be able to help then. S.A. to Dallas is about 275 miles, that's a haul to get your bike looked-at, but it might save you from the other guy who wants to charge you probably more than you paid for the bike in the first place.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Hello fellow riders, vmaxers
I bought a 2001 VMax with the carbon fiber color (don’t know if it’s stock or after market).

The bike will also wanting to stall when I’m idling after a long run, starts only with chock on and there was oil residue at the rear of the back cylinders. I took the bike to the shop and he suggested that my forks are leaking and that’s what’s causing the brakes to be weak. As I recall I didn’t see any oil on the front forks.

Also the shop suggested brand new rotors/pads/brake lines/valve cover gasket/forks rebuilt/ carbs cleaning and syncing and he goes about the LED lights cant be done cuz of how the light is designed and can’t fit a new head light in there and a digital odometer/analog RPM.

All that said makes me feel that he is trying to get me. I might not know about Vmax much but I think that shop is feeding me horse shit. He wanting to charge me $3500 and I agreed but that lights BS are is telling me , I just can’t get over it and my last question, is removing the silencers off the super trap exhaust could cuz the bike not to run smooth?

if any one knows some LED head light bulb that fits directly without having to take the front cowl off and can send me a link I would greatly appreciate it and if some one knows of a place where I can go to get the head light and tail light blinkers and digital tach installed, I’m open o suggestion.
im in Richardson Texas.

Thanks for ready and key shiny side up

The '99 & '20 bikes came in carbon effect so it would be worthwhile checking you frame to see when it was manufactured. My guess is that the bike a '20 first registered in '01.

It's always easy to spend other peoples money and for $3500 you could buy another bike and IMO I'd steer well clear of your 'expert'!

If it was bought privately the first job is to give it a full service and assume nothing has been done to it. Service check sheet attached.
IMO it is normal for the bike to need some choke to start from cold.
Before diving into the carbs and tearing them apart start with making sure the basics are correct; synchronise the carbs and run some fuel system cleaner through. That may be all you need to sort the stalling.
Brakes: if they are grabbing check for any thickness variation in the discs although this normally manifests itself as a pulsing through the lever.
Check that the pistons are free to move which is more likely to be your issue. If the discs are within thickness spec and without thickness variation or excessive run out they are serviceable. If the lines are OE then they probably are past there best and would benefit from replacement
The forks are either leaking or they aren't - a visual check will confirm this. IMO that they are affecting the braking is BS. That said I would be inclined to at least remove them to drain and replenish the oil. While you are at it you may as well fit Racetech springs and emulators (see, I said it was easy to spend other folks money )
For the oil leak (and stating the bleedin' obvious) first you need to establish where it is coming from. Thoroughly de-grease the motor and puff some talcum around the top end. That will show where the leak is and thus determine the next step.

LED indicators are relatively straight forward but you will need ballast resistors as well. The speedo is more involved and what needs to be done would depend on which one you want to fit. There are those of us who have gone down this rout so once again we can try to help.

There is nothing complicated about the Max and armed with the Service Manual there isn't much that is beyond the scope of the home mechanic...and there are also those here who are happy to offer advice.

I'd get your bike out of the shop a.s.a.p. and get your tools out.

 

[VMAXXIMUM]

I'm in North San Antonio, TX. Ride over and I'll take a look over some day during weekend. I'll tell you what you will really need for the bike. Bring me a 12-pack of Modelo and call it even.

This is what makes this group so special.

 

[Modaguy818]

The '99 & '20 bikes came in carbon effect so it would be worthwhile checking you frame to see when it was manufactured. My guess is that the bike a '20 first registered in '01.

It's always easy to spend other peoples money and for $3500 you could buy another bike and IMO I'd steer well clear of your 'expert'!

If it was bought privately the first job is to give it a full service and assume nothing has been done to it. Service check sheet attached.
IMO it is normal for the bike to need some choke to start from cold.
Before diving into the carbs and tearing them apart start with making sure the basics are correct; synchronise the carbs and run some fuel system cleaner through. That may be all you need to sort the stalling.
Brakes: if they are grabbing check for any thickness variation in the discs although this normally manifests itself as a pulsing through the lever.
Check that the pistons are free to move which is more likely to be your issue. If the discs are within thickness spec and without thickness variation or excessive run out they are serviceable. If the lines are OE then they probably are past there best and would benefit from replacement
The forks are either leaking or they aren't - a visual check will confirm this. IMO that they are affecting the braking is BS. That said I would be inclined to at least remove them to drain and replenish the oil. While you are at it you may as well fit Racetech springs and emulators (see, I said it was easy to spend other folks money )
For the oil leak (and stating the bleedin' obvious) first you need to establish where it is coming from. Thoroughly de-grease the motor and puff some talcum around the top end. That will show where the leak is and thus determine the next step.

LED indicators are relatively straight forward but you will need ballast resistors as well. The speedo is more involved and what needs to be done would depend on which one you want to fit. There are those of us who have gone down this rout so once again we can try to help.

There is nothing complicated about the Max and armed with the Service Manual there isn't much that is beyond the scope of the home mechanic...and there are also those here who are happy to offer advice.

I'd get your bike out of the shop a.s.a.p. and get your tools out.

You nailed with every thing you have mentioned in your post, I also had such a bad experience with the bike shop I took my BMW 1200 LT so I changed this time to this other shop that doesn’t seem to be any better than the one I previously went to based on some FB Vmax groups and some other forum.
i don’t want to post his shop name so I won’t give his business bad reputation but again I felt robbed by him telling me my forks are leaking and it’s $100 for led turning signals a pair when I see them online for way cheaper than that. But again I want him to finish what he started and hold his ass liable if I would to go pick up the bike and find it the way I dropped it off.
it’s been a week there now I will call him tomorrow and see how far he’s gone and tell him to halt on the lights cuz like I mentioned he gave me an estimate for turn signals ONLY for $400 which is a total rip off if you would to ask me.
thanks again for every one’s input and I will post back after I get an update.
cheers

 

[one2dmax]

Running a shop is not cheap so the costs will be alot more hten doing it yourself. This is one of the easier bikes to work on in general but still not "cheap". I do have various parts that we offer to both change cosmetics (like the signals) and even brake upgrades like hoses, lines, and different calipers. Even new brake pads (which can make a huge difference depending on the pad composition). Likely you do not need rotors. I haven't read your entire thread but the group here can help provide direction. Some maybe not the same way i'd go but at least gives you options to consider.

 

[Modaguy818]

Running a shop is not cheap so the costs will be alot more hten doing it yourself. This is one of the easier bikes to work on in general but still not "cheap". I do have various parts that we offer to both change cosmetics (like the signals) and even brake upgrades like hoses, lines, and different calipers. Even new brake pads (which can make a huge difference depending on the pad composition). Likely you do not need rotors. I haven't read your entire thread but the group here can help provide direction. Some maybe not the same way i'd go but at least gives you options to consider.

I appreciate you sir and every one in this group being very helpful and resourceful, at this point the bike is at the shop, 2k deposit paid and waiting on it patiently. After I get it back with everything he said is going to do done, I will see how more enjoyable it is because I did enjoyed it so much but was always afraid some will go bad as I’m riding or brakes will go out on me, the money I’m paying is a lot and it’s mostly for the labor, parts arent that expensive. I’d rather have him do it and I will reach out for the lights upgrades when it’s time for it.

any one here in Dallas and goes on weekend rides?

 

[1fatmax]

I appreciate you sir and every one in this group being very helpful and resourceful, at this point the bike is at the shop, 2k deposit paid and waiting on it patiently. After I get it back with everything he said is going to do done, I will see how more enjoyable it is because I did enjoyed it so much but was always afraid some will go bad as I’m riding or brakes will go out on me, the money I’m paying is a lot and it’s mostly for the labor, parts arent that expensive. I’d rather have him do it and I will reach out for the lights upgrades when it’s time for it.

any one here in Dallas and goes on weekend rides?

 

[1fatmax]

Yes there are several of us here in the DFW area. I wish you would have reached out/found us first before taking it to the shop. Look up VMAX Dallas on Facebook. Rick created the group and is highly knowledgeable on both generations. He has one of the most beautiful bikes I’ve ever seen. He lives in Allen and I live in Wylie.

 

[Modaguy818]

Yes there are several of us here in the DFW area. I wish you would have reached out/found us first before taking it to the shop. Look up VMAX Dallas on Facebook. Rick created the group and is highly knowledgeable on both generations. He has one of the most beautiful bikes I’ve ever seen. He lives in Allen and I live in Wylie.

That’s awesome, I just sent a request to join and I’m looking fwd a group ride one day

 

[one2dmax]

You may want to consider finding a set of mid 90's FZR1000/YZF750R six piston calipers. They are a direct bolt on and will resolve your brake upgrades wish.