New to me 1985 VMAX

[jsmith1107]

Dang, I don't ever want to have that happen to me---sounds like an interesting day. Thanks for the heads up on what can happen with these things.

 

[jsmith1107]

ok, finally received my carb kits---time to get these back together!

I apologize if the pictures end up sideways--still can't figure this out--they are fine on my computer and phone and then when I upload they turn sideways. Is there anyway to avoid this OR fix it once uploaded??

 

[D-Max2012]

Just curious,, When you took the picture, was your phone vertical or horizontal?

 

[jsmith1107]

Vertical--do you think that is the issue? It's weird because sometime it happens and sometimes it doesn't.

 

[D-Max2012]

I Never try to take photos or videos with the phone vertically. Never got in that practice and I don't like the black bars on the left and right hand side of an uploaded video for posting.
Also, since most of my vids and pics are sent to my computer 1st, the PC's monitor is also horizontal, so everything looks correct.

Try a few horizontal shots and post a couple. That may be your issue.
Also, take note of where the microphone is on the phone. It's always closest to the mouth (downward of the phone), so orient the horizontal with the microphone on the right. Some phone are smart enough to re-orient the photo, even if you took it upside down, BUT, you don't want the extra work if it does not post that way.. Good luck.

 

[jsmith1107]

ok, first of all I took this picture like suggested above--let's see if it works.

Second, I purchased this fuel sender locally from a guy pretty cheap because the holes match up to what the VMAX has on it--the only issue here is that the plug isn't the same as the VMAX--shouldn't be a problem, snip it off the old one and put it on the purchased one. Is there any other reason this shouldn't work? I don't see any logical reason--this one is off a 2001 Yamaha YZFR1.

 

[Fire-medic]

If the blades in the connector look to be the same size maybe you can just swap out the plastic that the conductors snap into

 

[D-Max2012]

just a suggestion.
Before cutting anything, take a resistance reading of that sender. See if its within specs of the original. If its way off, you could be heading down the wrong path..

Take care..

PS.. your picture came out correct..

 

[D-Max2012]

Out of curiosity, I tried to cross reference your 2001 Yamaha YZFR1 fuel sender on Partzilla but the weird thing is, there is no part called a "Fuel Sender" for that year / model.

 

[jsmith1107]

That is weird---unless I have the model of the Yamaha wrong? It should work--in theory just match up the wire that I cut to the other connector and I should be good to go. Ok, I should know this but how do I check the resistance and what should the number be when checking so it passes??

 

[D-Max2012]

This is from the online service manual.

You'll need a multi-meter to check to see if its within range of the Vmax sender.

 

[jsmith1107]

I really appreciate all your help!! I feel dumb but I have never been good at electrical—can you put that picture into “English” for me? Not sure I understand how to do this—put the red on one wire, second on the other of course but after that? What do I set the multimeter at? And what am I looking for? Sorry for being so dumb at this—just not a strong point.

 

[D-Max2012]

No problem. That's how we learn, by asking questions or trial and error.. Personally, I'd rather not have the trial and error while on the road.. :biglaugh:

I'm going to assume you're using a digital volt/ohm meter.
Set your volt meter to 20K Ohms
Basically, (taking into account the .2k variance) you're looking for readings anywhere around .7K ohms -- 1.10 K ohms



Just a head up.. a few years ago, I made a video of my experience with this issue. This was after I got stranded at the job. I ordered a replacement thermistor to replace that corroded one that was inside the fuel senders brass can.

I ran it outside in a little jar of gasoline with a connection wire, to see after being removed from the fuel, would it warm up enough to cause the circuit to operate correctly.

It did work for the test, but I was not fully confident that it would hold up for the long run, like the stock unit does.

So, even after taking the time to tare down, order replacement thermistors, re-solder, reconstruct, and test,, I still did not have piece of mind until I put a stock part in there.

Also, since my tank is now coated, I no longer worry about rust build-up, that causes all sorts of trouble.


Submerged in gas test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMNo4EaCfKY

Out of fuel test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTU_WDld--U

 

[jsmith1107]

No problem. That's how we learn, by asking questions or trial and error.. Personally, I'd rather not have the trial and error while on the road.. :biglaugh:

I'm going to assume you're using a digital volt/ohm meter.
Set your volt meter to 20K Ohms
Basically, (taking into account the .2k variance) you're looking for readings anywhere around .7K ohms -- 1.10 K ohms



Just a head up.. a few years ago, I made a video of my experience with this issue. This was after I got stranded at the job. I ordered a replacement thermistor to replace that corroded one that was inside the fuel senders brass can.

I ran it outside in a little jar of gasoline with a connection wire, to see after being removed from the fuel, would it warm up enough to cause the circuit to operate correctly.

It did work for the test, but I was not fully confident that it would hold up for the long run, like the stock unit does.

So, even after taking the time to tare down, order replacement thermistors, re-solder, reconstruct, and test,, I still did not have piece of mind until I put a stock part in there.

Also, since my tank is now coated, I no longer worry about rust build-up, that causes all sorts of trouble.


Submerged in gas test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMNo4EaCfKY

Out of fuel test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTU_WDld--U

Thank you--I will do this tomorrow--so basically I will just do the dry test correct? And I want the ohm readings you mentioned above correct?

 

[jsmith1107]

ok, so when I put it to 20 ohms setting it shows a 1 on the screen--this is without touching anything with the leads. Is that right?

 

[D-Max2012]

this is without touching anything with the leads

That is correct.. Open Circuit

Move it to the 20k setting.. If your meter is showing (1.---) then that's basically saying that there is no resistance, (open circuit).

Here's a picture of the actual thermistor that is used in that test video. Note that I have my meter on the 20K setting and I'm at .89K. well within specs of the stock sender (.9K ohms +- .2K ohms).

 

[jsmith1107]

ok, when you have the leads on nothing you have a 1 like I do showing on the multimeter right? When I touch the leads together my multimeter goes to 0 which I have seen is correct.

 

[D-Max2012]

ok, when you have the leads on nothing you have a 1 like I do showing on the multimeter right? When I touch the leads together my multimeter goes to 0 which I have seen is correct.

Correct.. open circuit reads a 1.. Dead short (wires touching) reads 0.0

When you touch the wires to the sender, you're looking for readings around .7 K Ohms up to 1.10 K Ohms.

 

[jsmith1107]

dang, I am not getting anything---this sender looks like new to be honest.

 

[D-Max2012]

Check the wires leading to the sender itself.. Make sure you don't have a broken wire... Also,, try flipping the meter to a higher range, to see if you get a reading..