Penetrating Oils

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Just be careful with the acetone mix. Acetone is very flammable stuff, and the vapors are pretty powerful too! I usually soak things with PB blaster or liquid wrench, let it sit for a while, then warm it up with a small propane torch. Get's em loose everytime! I always reassemble with a dab of anti-seize to prevent things from locking up in the future.

Yeah, was considering the volatility factor! Seems like Liquid Wrench...of all the readily available penetrants...is probly the way I'll go. Altho I do have a small bit of Mouse's Milk that Tugla sent me which I use only in dire emergencies! :biglaugh:
 
I like the PB Blaster because it has a cool can, all that writing! And, it works. I use atf to soak stuff in for awhile before I try to wrestle w/it. It's good for pickling something for years of storage too.
I always reached for the PB myself Bro. Two things about PB, it will burn the hell out of your eyes. Don't take a torch to PB soaked stuff. It will burst into flames. I've gotten salt water rusted trailer wheel lugs off with it.
Steve-o
 
I always reached for the PB myself Bro. Two things about PB, it will burn the hell out of your eyes. Don't take a torch to PB soaked stuff. It will burst into flames. I've gotten salt water rusted trailer wheel lugs off with it.
Steve-o
I always keep a couple of cans of PB in my storage bin, and one in my RV tool box.......it's good stuff.
 
Don't take a torch to PB soaked stuff. It will burst into flames. Steve-o

+1. Ignites pretty easily with a little heat from the torch. I have some old dirt bike wheels that I was trying to turn the spoke nipples on. I soaked em with PB, let em sit, added heat and had some flames shooting off of it. Still didn't turn.

I've got an '83 YZ that needs some spoke attention. A few replaced, all need tightend up. I'm going to try the ATF/Acetone mix and see how it works.
 
Kroil is by far the best I've used and it works great for cleaning and maintaining guns too... I've never had any luck at all with PB blaster, might as well use wd40.. be careful what you put the atf/acetone mix in, being diluted that much might make a difference but that stuff chews through plastic (more than likely your squirt bottle) like its not even there...

Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
 
Thanks, Joe! Great info
I'm going to mix up some of that "shop brew" asap.
One thing - did the article mention how long the rusted parts were allowed to soak in the various penetrants?

He didn't metion how long they soaked the parts but did say this;

"I can only guess that they soaked each one an equal amount of time. Whenever I have a case of frozen bolt or nut, that I want to save, I will spend at least an hour treating it before attempting to loosen it. If then, it doesn't budge, I'll treat it some more. Overnight if necessary. Of course, this is an extreme case of wanting to save the threads, and not wanting to rip shit apart.
If it's a case of a nut and bolt, no care taken... its coming apart. Ha ha
 
Yeah, was considering the volatility factor! Seems like Liquid Wrench...of all the readily available penetrants...is probly the way I'll go. Altho I do have a small bit of Mouse's Milk that Tugla sent me which I use only in dire emergencies! :biglaugh:

:punk::punk::punk:
 
I've got an '83 YZ that needs some spoke attention. A few replaced, all need tightend up. I'm going to try the ATF/Acetone mix and see how it works.

Finally got around to giving this a shot. I'm working on some 29 year old MX wheels on a YZ 100. The rear wheel needs trued and some spokes replaced. I mixed up some acetone and ATF, put it in a squirt can and went to town. I have the wheel set up on the axle on a pair of jack stands. I applied the mix to the bottom side of the spoke nipples and heated each one till it bubbled up. Then, applied to the top side and did the same. I was able to break all the nipples free but one. I applied a little more mix to the stubborn spoke and decided to let it sit overnight. I will try again this week to see if I can get it to move. So far, I am impressed.
 
Here is an interesting article about Penetrating oils.

Penetrating Oils

Recently "Machinist Workshop Magazine" did a test on penetrating oils.
Using nuts and bolts that they 'scientifically rusted' to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrates and measured the torque required to loosen them.

This is what they came up with:

Nothing: 516 lbs

WD-40: 238 lbs;

PB Blaster: 214 lbs;

Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,

Kano Kroil: 106 lbs

(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.



This last "shop brew" of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat

out the commercially prepared products costing far more.


Crap, when I read the post title I thought it was about a different kind of penetrating....
 
Crap, when I read the post title I thought it was about a different kind of penetrating....

...put it in a squirt can and went to town...I was able to break all the nipples free but

dont know what youre talkin bout 85maxfan, but with posts like mabd's i dont know what other kind of talk this thread would be about. LOL :rolleyes:

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Regards from my Taptalking Hercules
 
I let the atf/acetone mix work Sunday night. After work on Monday I tried to break the last spoke free. I was able to get it to turn and tighten up. Seems like this stuff works to me. Instead of spending $100 + on a whole new spoke set I was able to get them all turning and will only have to buy replacements for the lost/broken spokes. That should cost about $5.
 
I have had good luck with Kroil and Fluid Film

Look up the recipie for "Ed's Red" it woorks pretty good for lots of things
 
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