R1 vs FZR750 calipers?

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I use 94 YZF 750 6 pot calipers (bolt on for my 97 Max) with HH pads, stock master cylinder and braided lines. There is NO comparison to stock, none at all. The bike feels like it will stand on its head if you grab the lever like you mean business and seems to have good travel to modulate intermediate braking.

My first ride out testing it literally scared the crap out of me with how much more braking ability I had.

In order of my "perceived" effect when I did the mods one step at a time:

HH Pads from stock organic, with all other factory parts - 30% increase in braking effectiveness

Braided lines, 5% increase (slightly better lever feel.. sponginess reduction)

6 pot Sumitomo calipers (Pure bolt on) with HH pads - 60% increase in braking effectiveness (And DAAAAM they look good. Hmmmm I will try to find some pics.

These are Perceived increases, seat of the pants feel stuff. I do not feel any need to make it brake better now...at all. You better have good springs (Progressive) and/or Ricor Intiminators/Emulators because that stock front will dive to China! Yes that was my next upgrade I did (Ricor/Progressive Springs/1" front lowered).


Here ya go .
 

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The Hayabusa Conversion (for the early years) and Sumitomo's for the later years are the ONLY way to go if you want to STOP!

Sean
 
I just bought a set of YZF750 off ebay for $150 complete! I know they are not the FZR750's but should be much better then stock!

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Blue Oval, you have some good add-ons there. Stop posting and start modding! Then return with pics we all want to see.

The triple-opposed piston calipers should be equal to and probably surpass the four-opposed piston calipers in extreme use. Supposedly the hot ticket would be the variable-sized pistons where the size differential is supposed to correct for uneven 'bite' due to being second or third in-line to 'grab' the rotor. On the FZR/YZF forums, the 4 vs. 6 piston calipers' 'feel' and function is a topic of contention. The six-piston came on some but not all the FZR 1000 forks, later years were USD forks. Many people said a properly set-up and tuned conventional fork of that era was just as good as if not better than the USD. Of course, things have progressed, now we have cartridge forks and nearly 20 years of racing to improve the breed.

Bottom-line, better pads, better lines, and better calipers will result in better function but it's still up to the rider to use them effectively.

I just checked my FZR1000 calipers, they are indeed four-opposed piston Sumitomos. These are also the same brakes I swapped onto my VMax and I was able to use my 1993+ 298 mm rotors, no change-out required. If you want wave rotor "High-Zoot" factor, hey, it's only $$! If you were going to use your VMax on a track day, maybe you would get some benefit out of the wave rotors. For the rest of us who don't need to spend the $, your stock rotors, in good shape, should be fine, in my experience. Eye candy factors are always to be a major consideration for some. I always like the color green in my wallet if the stock work the same for my use. I have an FZ750 caliper I am planning to add to the rear of my VMax so the calipers are all the same color (FZ and FZR are gold, at least the ones I have are, late 1980's), I haven't trial-fitted or measured them for mounting yet, so if they don't work, I will follow-up post.
 
I would think the greatest improvment would be the old single piston calipers to a newer set up. When I did mine, the Nissen 4 pots were all I found available to replace stock calipers, or I would have gone 6 pot Tokico. This is a first mod on an older style Max front end IMHO.I'm actually very pleased with this set up using the stock master cylinder (though I liked the feel of the FJ masters some of my friends use). I'm very used to the feel now and can hit them hard without lock up ,even with one pinky...lol. These calipers saved my ass more than once. I'm also using the HH pads and braided lines in front, ceramic in back. The lines prolly aren't as important as the rest for the budget contious improvement wise, unless the rubber lines were bad. The stainless lines look real nice and shouldn't expand like the old rubber lines.
I would think that the greater the pad surface the better the stopping power. I put a Hong Cong cheapo rotor in the back and it works great. I have 2 more to add up front.I'll report back after putting them on. New chrome rotor bolts from Sean were worth every cent. They look beautiful and are flat rather than the round stockers.
Steve-o
 
Your right Fire-medic! Next time that I post pics, it will be the mods on the bike.:rofl_200:

Yeah you have a lot of cool stuff to play with. And then you can work on your bike!:rofl_200:

I have been collecting exhaust pieces to 'mix & match' to see what I can come-up w/on-the-cheap. I intend to work on both bikes in this regard. Probably gonna take awhile.

I do have an FZR1000 17" rim and a stripped rear VMax wheel to contemplate mating, all it will take, my machinist told me, is $500...:biglaugh: Still much cheaper than the UFO or Sean's Italian Carrozzeria's. I wanna run radials!
 
I just got a set af 6 pot Sumitomo from a 97 YZF 750R.

I am going to take the R1's off and try these.

Are the correct brake pads for the 6 pots FA190?

Will the 6 pots work with the same diameter rotors as the R1's. R1's came off a 2001 YFZ R1.

Gary
 

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I just got a set af 6 pot Sumitomo from a 97 YZF 750R.

I am going to take the R1's off and try these.

Are the correct brake pads for the 6 pots FA190?

Will the 6 pots work with the same diameter rotors as the R1's. R1's came off a 2001 YFZ R1.

Gary


I can't confirm the pad part # but I can say that the six pots will work with the rotors. I had a set bolted onto my bike and there were no issues at all.
 

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