Rear wheel offset?

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

srk468

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Messages
1,427
Reaction score
2
Location
Niles, MI
Hello everyone I have a quick question, I've always heard that a stock Vmax rear tire is offset to the right a little bit but mine seem to be offset to the left about 1/2" or so? I'm getting ready to send a wheel to Kosman and I want to have it done at 18"x 6" and run a gen 2 rear tire 200/50-18 and was thinking to tell them to offset it about 1/2" to the right when I have it done so the tire centers better and fills the fender better. Anyone ever done this, am I right about the offset or do I need my eyes checked? LOL Thanks in advance for the input!

Scott
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0008.jpg
    IMAG0008.jpg
    48.2 KB · Views: 61
  • IMAG0012.jpg
    IMAG0012.jpg
    52.9 KB · Views: 54
Might be an illusion. You can use two adjustable pivots (like the right side normally has) to set the wheel a little to the left if desired which works in most stock setups.

Sean
 
Might be an illusion. You can use two adjustable pivots (like the right side normally has) to set the wheel a little to the left if desired which works in most stock setups.

Sean

Well I thought about that too Sean so I measured from the bulge of the tire to the edge of the rear fender and it is to the left by about 1/2" I know I shouldn't be measuring to a bodypart but rather a point on the chassis but I just want it to be fairly centered and fill the fender nice, plus it would help me not have to notch the swingarm so deep when I extend it. I just want to get it figured out before I send out my wheel to get done because now is the time to figure it out so I can have the modification done to the wheel. Any advice on where else to take measurements from Sean?
 
kosman (at least for mine) just welded on bigger lips so it didn't change the placement.
 
They told me to download the wheel weld form and fill it out for them and I could basically do what I wanted with it, I was going to do the 17" wheel but there isn't a a tire I like out there except the 200/50-17 and that's getting a little short for my tastes (about 7/8" shorter than my 170 Shinko) but the 200/50-18 is just barely a little taller which I don't mind and with that being the factory size of the gen 2 max there are already decent radials out now and more to come I'm sure so I've decided to have it done at 18"x6". I just know extending it 3" is going to make me lose a little traction and I want to be able to get a decently sticky tire back there.
 
Stock wheel has offset about 5-7mm to the right.
Thant's what I always thought too Prez but do you agree that in my pics it looks offset to the left? That's why I figured I'd come on here and ask guys smarter than I am! LOL I appreciate all the advice guys!
 
Its looks like but like Sean mentioned might be an illusion. Grab a mesuring tape and check the distance beteween rim and shocks.

If you really have some left offset that would be a first I've ever saw.
 
first thing i noticed is your plate looks a little crooked, maybe thats adding to the illusion a bit :confused2:
 
DO NOT use the fender as a point of reference. Remove it and use the frame.

You don't know if the fender is crooked.
 
Well I just went out and measured it about 10 times and came up with this, left side from wheel to shock (not the spring) was 3 5/8" right side from wheel to shock was 3 7/8" and you guys are right the plate bracket is a little crooked but still by my findings the wheel is closer to the left shock than the right...:ummm:
 
wait so its offset to the left, most are to the right, right?
 
Correct. Usually offset to the right. The rear subframe is so easily bent that it's not funny. It could easily have bent on you as well??

Sean
 
Correct. Usually offset to the right. The rear subframe is so easily bent that it's not funny. It could easily have bent on you as well??

Sean

I guess it's possible, is there a reference point I could use to measure off of to confirm it Sean? Is there anyone else with a 170/80-15 shinko on their bike that could measure their tire to swingarm clearance? I have about 1/4" on the left side, does that sound about right?
 
first thing i noticed is your plate looks a little crooked, maybe thats adding to the illusion a bit :confused2:

+1, plate is definitely crooked. The wheel looks pretty well centered up in there though, even considering the plate is crooked. Maybe someone did the pivot bolt trick.

Remove your swingarm pivot covers and check the pivot bolts. One side should look like a normal bolt with a piece of metal behind it that has a tab bent over that locks the bolt into place (left side pivot) the other has a jam nut and the bolt has a hole in the end for an allen key. If they both have jam nuts and holes for allen keys, someone replaced the left bolt to try and center up the rear wheel.
 
+1, plate is definitely crooked. The wheel looks pretty well centered up in there though, even considering the plate is crooked. Maybe someone did the pivot bolt trick.

Remove your swingarm pivot covers and check the pivot bolts. One side should look like a normal bolt with a piece of metal behind it that has a tab bent over that locks the bolt into place (left side pivot) the other has a jam nut and the bolt has a hole in the end for an allen key. If they both have jam nuts and holes for allen keys, someone replaced the left bolt to try and center up the rear wheel.
Yea I gotta work on getting that plate squared up, I'll check it out in the morning and keep you guys posted, thanks!!
 
i I HAVE A LOT TO SAY ABOUT THIS , I'M ONE OF THOSE GUY'S THAT MEASURES 33 TIMES , THEN GOES AND SETS UP THE SHIT TO DO IT AND THEN MEASURES AGAIN WITH A CLEAR HEAD ! . I WORKED AT A BODY SHOP FOR YEARS DOING CHASSIS WORK , AND HAVE BUILT - WORKED ON AND RACED STOCK CARS MY ENTIRE LIFE , I MENTION THIS BECAUSE THIS IS ALL MEASUREMENTS AND GEOMETRY , ... I WOULD TAKE THE BACK FENDER OFF THE BIKE ! ... PUT THE BIKE ON THE CENTER-STAND , GET THE FRONT WHEEL OFF THE GROUND SO THE BIKE IS LEVEL , SECURE THE BARS STRAIGHT , FIND THE CENTERLINE OF THE FRAME AND THE FRONT FORKS , HANG PLUMB-BOBS FROM YOUR FOOT-PEGS AND WHEREVER-ELSE WILL AID AS REFERENCE POINTS , PUT A CHALK LINE ON THE FLOOR , AND START MEASURING MY ASS OFF ! .. AND ONE THING THATS OVER LOOKED WHEN MEASURING , THIS IS JUST AN EXAMPLE ; IF YOU ARE MEASURING AND COMPARING YOU LEFT SIDE REAR WHEEL TO THE RIGHT SIDE AND ITS A 1/2 INCH OUT TO THE LEFT , YOU ONLY NEED TO MOVE IT TO THE RIGHT 1/4 OF AN INCH , BECAUSE AS YOU MOVE IT TO THE RIGHT AND CLOSE THAT GAP A 1/4 INCH , YOU JUST ADDED A 1/4 INCH OF GAP ON THE LEFT SIDE , SO THAT A 1/2 INCH TOTAL OF CHANGE ! .. I HAVE FUCK UP MYSELF BY NOT REMEMBERING THIS , THATS WHY I'M REMINDING YOU , AND THAT WHY YOUR ALWAYS BETTER OFF SQUARING EVERYTHING UP AND FINDING THE TRUE CENTER-LINE BEFORE DOING ANY MEASUREMENTS , BECAUSE " CENTER IS CENTER " ! .. IT IS WELL WORTH THE EFFORT AND WILL PAY OFF IN THE LONG RUN !
 
What about tying a string around the head tube, leave a loose loop around it so it will self center (kinda like this O------) remove gauges, faux, seat, grab bar, and fender. Measure and mark the center of the frame above the fuel tank, extend the string beyond the rear subframe. Make sure string is centered on frame near the tank and pull tight, then meausure from the string to the right/left sides of the subframe to compare. Would that tell you if its out of whack?
 
All great idea's guys! I know exactly what your getting at as I have built chassis for a few drag cars, my 68 Cutlass has 32" ladder bars with coilovers and track locator and has 33x18.5" ET streets on it, I also hung a pinto rack under the front of it, I'm not bragging just letting you guys know I'm not new to this stuff! LOL Where I'm at now is I find it hard to believe that I have the one vmax with a left offset wheel so I'm going under the assumption that the rear subframe is bent (I did check the pivot bolts mabdcmb and they are stock but thanks for the tip!) so I'm just going to have the wheel made straight and build the swingarm around it because trying to straighten that rear subframe would not be easy, thanks for the advice on the phone Sean I sure appreciate it! The bike rides great and I can't see trying to go through all the mess of straightening the frame when it's just a slight optical illusion. I'm still open to idea's and I've got plenty of time cause this is just a project for next winter but I just wanted to get my wheel done so I can buy a tire, that way once I'm ready to start this project I'll spend more time working on it and less time waiting on parts. Thanks again everyone!
 
+1, plate is definitely crooked. The wheel looks pretty well centered up in there though, even considering the plate is crooked. Maybe someone did the pivot bolt trick.

Remove your swingarm pivot covers and check the pivot bolts. One side should look like a normal bolt with a piece of metal behind it that has a tab bent over that locks the bolt into place (left side pivot) the other has a jam nut and the bolt has a hole in the end for an allen key. If they both have jam nuts and holes for allen keys, someone replaced the left bolt to try and center up the rear wheel.

Using a straight edge and the edge of the tire, it looks pretty centered to me. Did you put the bike on the centerstand and rotate the tire to check for runout?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top