stage 7 manifolds

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shawnlee

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I just received my stage 7 for my 01max. The dyno instructions are pretty understandable except for where the manifolds go. Can anyone help me out on this one? Thanks in advance
 
I wouldn't bother using them. Just unplug the servo motor electrical connection to the VBoost (under the left scoop, the round connector) when it opens on turning on the key. Or you could just open the manifold manually and safety wire it open. Having the manifold still in place makes it much easier to synch the carbs.

The tubes are to replace the VBoost butterflies.
 
So should I install the manifolds,sync the carbs and remove them or what. I already run with the butterfly valve wide open and I sync with my carbtune. What is your opinion?
 
So should I install the manifolds,sync the carbs and remove them or what. I already run with the butterfly valve wide open and I sync with my carbtune. What is your opinion?

Don't sync the carbs with the butterflys open.
You can install it with or without.
 
Thank you Dragmaster, this is going to be a labor of love. I waited 4 years for my UFO,original canister style, and another 5 for the stage 7 kit. Thanks, SLee
 
Good luck with it. I hope it was worth the wait for you and i hope everything works out for you too.
I personally would not install the manifolds supplied. It is designed to work without the vboost or the vboost opened at all times but i think it is best to leave the vboost on and close it just to sync the carbs. They will sync better with the vboost closed.
 
They will only be able to be synced with carbtune with the crossovers closed. You need to measure vacuum on individual carbs so the connection needs to be closed to have correct readings.
 
The V-boost open at idle gives a false individual reading. The Carbtune will fail to isolate an individual cylinder. The other option is to get a different type of sync method. I have an Edlebrock unit that sits on top of the carbs. It only reads well at off idle speeds, which isn't too big a deal. I sync off idle anyway. But, I've not used it on my bike because it limits me to only seeing one carb.at a time. Unless I were to buy 3 more. 4 wouldn't be much more than a Carbtune. I haven't convinced myself of it being worth the extra flow from installing the v-boost eliminator tubes. There is a possible small gain here though, at W.O.T. mostly, I'd imagine. Anyone that has tried it will hopefully chime in.
Steve
 
The V-boost open at idle gives a false individual reading. The Carbtune will fail to isolate an individual cylinder. The other option is to get a different type of sync method. I have an Edlebrock unit that sits on top of the carbs. It only reads well at off idle speeds, which isn't too big a deal. I sync off idle anyway. But, I've not used it on my bike because it limits me to only seeing one carb.at a time. Unless I were to buy 3 more. 4 wouldn't be much more than a Carbtune. I haven't convinced myself of it being worth the extra flow from installing the v-boost eliminator tubes. There is a possible small gain here though, at W.O.T. mostly, I'd imagine. Anyone that has tried it will hopefully chime in.
Steve

Steve what would be the difference if you read off of one carb ? At that point your still reading off of two ( not ). :ummm:

Dave
 
Steve what would be the difference if you read off of one carb ? At that point your still reading off of two ( not ). :ummm:

Dave

Not really Dave, because it reads the air velocity through the top of a single carb. instead of the vacuum below the throttle plates, which is shared by both carbs on each side. For now I just shut the v-boost and use the carb tune. It's quick and accurate. Throttle plate opening measurement is still an option, possibly.
 
When my Vboost was always opened (with S7) i always made the sync with Cabtune.
Longer to do than with closed butterflies but it works too...
 
I believe it restricts the vapor/condensed oil and allows it to drip back into the crankcase
 
I know it goes in the tube but in near the crankcase or up by the filters? What keeps it in place and what is it's purpose?

The hose only, keeps the restrictor in place. I believe it to restrict the flow there & direct it to the new, larger vent hose on the oil cap opening while allowing any condensed oil vapor to not be trapped in the original venting hose. There must be a need for some venting at the original location. You don't HAVE to terminate at the filters.
 

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