Stock exhaust mod - carb question

[jasondon]

If I do the stock exhaust mod, drlling the baffle &or drilling holes in the end cap, will I need to rejet or can I just adjust the A/F? Elevation is 3400ft FWIW.

Maybe I wont need to adjust anything, but I suspect it will be running rich. Just wanted to see what others have done.

Thanks,

Jason

 

[dannymax]

If I do the stock exhaust mod, drlling the baffle &or drilling holes in the end cap, will I need to rejet or can I just adjust the A/F? Elevation is 3400ft FWIW.

Maybe I wont need to adjust anything, but I suspect it will be running rich. Just wanted to see what others have done.

Thanks,

Jason

Re-jetting isn't necessary. I have drilled out stockers with the A/F screws out 2 1/2, and it runs fine.

 

[4gasem]

+1 It probably wouldn't hurt to go down to a 147.5 but the stock jets will work fine IMO.

 

[jasondon]

Re-jetting isn't necessary. I have drilled out stockers with the A/F screws out 2 1/2, and it runs fine.

Thanks guys. Danny did you drill out the baffle too, or just the end cap drilling? I think I will drill out the rivets to start, drill the holes and paint it black - leaving the endcap off. If I am going to drill holes, why put the caps back on other than looks?

I am considering drilling the baffle, but still a little confused on how to do this...havent come across any pics in my searches

 

[82ndCowboy]

I drilled the holes in my mufflers and put the end caps back on with a spacer behind them. I noticed no difference in anything except sound. But that is what I was trying to accomplish anyway. Mine doesn't run rich and the plugs always look fine.
Put the caps back on, they look unfinished without them. My opinion anyway.

 

[jasondon]

Thanks Robert....that is all I am looking for really. I know that if I want more HP I need to do a full system and do it right, I would just like the stock set up to sound a little better...after all our bikes arent 50cc scooters, so they shouldnt sound like one :biglaugh:

I agree that it looks better with the caps on, but it doesnt make sense to me to be drilling holes and then put the cover back on....haha. I will have to see what it looks like with them off. I think these look just fine, you guys?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clZZ6obsMDw

 

[Redbone]

Here are mine with caps off. I/2" holes inbetween the rivet holes, and it ran a little rich.

 

[Jaoteay]

I think it looks WAAAAY better with the endcaps on. I drilled them, put 3 nuts as spacers and it sounds good and still looks real good. I found a cheapy riverter at HF (sorry to admit) and it worked just fine for two bikes.

 

[jasondon]

Brian, looks good, just have to hit it with some black paint. Thanks for posting the pic!

 

[Redbone]

I put the caps back on with spacers but I have the stock exhaust off Redbone. I just received my brand new exhaust yesterday. What I have sitting on the kitchen table is Mark's Performance pipes SS e/ 12" cans. I should have it on tonight if all goes well!unk:

 

[jasondon]

Yikes, dont do that, I think your modded stock one's look great. Package the ones up on your kitchen table, send them to me, and I will report back shortly (I am sure they wont be near as good as your stock'ers)

 

[Redbone]

Yikes, dont do that, I think your modded stock one's look great. Package the ones up on your kitchen table, send them to me, and I will report back shortly (I am sure they wont be near as good as your stock'ers)

LOL too late, it's already installed! It sounds awesome too!unk:

 

[jasondon]

Damn. Well I was thinking you might do that, so I went ahead and drilled the endcaps tonight...wow what a difference. You can actually hear the bike now. I went to the grocery store which is only a couple km away and turned two heads :biglaugh:

Good to hear you like yours as well, I am sure it sounds awesome..

 

[dannymax]

Thanks guys. Danny did you drill out the baffle too, or just the end cap drilling? I think I will drill out the rivets to start, drill the holes and paint it black - leaving the endcap off. If I am going to drill holes, why put the caps back on other than looks?

I am considering drilling the baffle, but still a little confused on how to do this...havent come across any pics in my searches

Jason--Sorry, I just noticed your post. I didn't do the exhaust mod the PO did.

 

[vmax626]

Right now I have the "Y" cover off my air box and the A/F screws turned out to 3 1/2 turns and it runs good BUT, I want to lose the air box and put either K & N or uni filters on it SO, my question is::If I do this do I need to jet the carbs or do I just need to adjust the A/F screws more ??:confused2:
I am running stock pipes with hole shot slipons.
Can any one help me with this ? I would like to do it this weekend if I can. I have these filters on my honda and they fit the vmax. OH poor, poor Honda.:stickyman:
<<Dave>> The mod monkey has ahold of my ass:th_smilie:

 

[maleko89]

You can but you will need the Dynojet air correctors. These fit into the main air jet at the top of each carb. From there, you'll have to tune it and see. You'll probably need to up the main jet. It would probably help to have stage 1 or 7 needles so you can at least adjust the needles if necessary.

 

[one2dmax]

If you want to really mess up your performance then by all means install the individuals. If you want it to stay running good you'll put the "Y" back on with a little spacing and change your mains out to 147.5's or maybe even 150's to maximize your combo.

I don't recommend my kit (or the stage seven) to anyone with slip-ons since you aren't really replacing the worst part of the exhaust (the stock primary pipes). When and if you get a full system you can look at the individuals (stage seven) or one of our kits (many like our kits better).

Sean Morley

 

[vmax626]

If you want to really mess up your performance then by all means install the individuals. If you want it to stay running good you'll put the "Y" back on with a little spacing and change your mains out to 147.5's or maybe even 150's to maximize your combo.

I don't recommend my kit (or the stage seven) to anyone with slip-ons since you aren't really replacing the worst part of the exhaust (the stock primary pipes). When and if you get a full system you can look at the individuals (stage seven) or one of our kits (many like our kits better).

Sean Morley

If I do this, ( put the "Y" back on and get those 150`s how many turns do you recomend that I set the A/F screws at ?
Do I have to replace the primary jets too or just the main ?
(I don`t know too much about the carbs on this bike):confused2:
And how much do they cost ?
<<Dave>>

 

[vmax626]

You can but you will need the Dynojet air correctors. These fit into the main air jet at the top of each carb. From there, you'll have to tune it and see. You'll probably need to up the main jet. It would probably help to have stage 1 or 7 needles so you can at least adjust the needles if necessary.

Are these the little spacers that I`ve heard about ?
I`m still kinda afraid to get into the carbs , I don`t want to screw anything up.<<Dave>>

 

[maleko89]

The spacers are for the needles and used to richen the midrange. The air correctors are brass jets that richen the main air circuit.