supertrapps argh...

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dman1961

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so I have the headers lose and my trapps are goin on very well... do i need heat? dont want to beat on them..:ummm:
 
You can carefully use a rubber mallet. Tighten the headers, tap a bit, loosen them, tap a bit etc etc etc. My Marks system was mega tight to get on all the way, but this method worked without marking the cans or pipes.
 
I got em on to where the back mounting bolt is in... and they sound great... but... I doubt if half an inch sliped in...:ummm:
 
I got em on to where the back mounting bolt is in... and they sound great... but... I doubt if half an inch sliped in...:ummm:

Mine were that way when I put them on. Just run the bike and put your hand around the joint to make sure your not leaking. If not, your good to go.

trappt.jpg
 
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As Stated above as long as they aren't leaking you'll be fine.
I attached Pictures of the Joints where my SuperTrapps slipp over the Stock Pipes Below.
 

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DMAN I didnt get near that much in... thats what she said :punk: but im gonna mess with them some more...
 
An old trick of the audio retailers is to subtly turn-up the volume on the speakers you are shilling hardest to sell. People perceive the louder speaker system to be 'better,' when you are doing an "A" or "B" comparison between two sets.

In the case of Supertrapps they are louder than stock, so you perceive them as being 'better,' or able to keep-up with a simiam bearing its painted buttocks, or however you choose to express your satisfaction.:biglaugh:

Don't 'force' anything. After a couple heat/cool cycles, you might get a bit of additional overlap. You could try leaving the connection not tight, get it hot, and then try snugging things down.
 
Thinking about it, I remember that I enlarged the Holes on the Hanger of the Slipons, so they would slide farther forward.
 
They will go all the way on, and you want them all the way on.
The fit is so precise with the right twisting and pushing theyll go on.

I had 1 or 2 halfway on with no leaks, and one day one eventually worked its way loose and popped off.

a rubber mallet and a1x2 piece of wood will do the trick.
 
so far im having bad luck... and im a fair mechanic... thinking of full header already... we used heat and everything... the black paint/powder coat didnt like it much...
 
so far im having bad luck... and im a fair mechanic... thinking of full header already... we used heat and everything... the black paint/powder coat didnt like it much...
If your local muffler shop has a pipe bender they maybe able to strech the opening up just a tiny bit for you (depending if they have small enough adapter to fit). I had similar issues when I ran supertrapps, I even tried heating them up was only able to "slip" then onto about half way. It didn't leak but I didn't like the way it look so I had the muffler shop strech the ends out for me.

One word of caution, make sure the guy that does it just taps the lever so it only enlarges the pipe just a tiny bit, if he over does it you will have to run some clamps.
 
with the pressure I was willing to apply to my pipe expander it didnt help much....
:confused2:
 
When all else fails.... GET GOOD AND PISSED OFF.... :punk:

They are on... and prolly will never come off again... ever...


thank you sledge hammer...:rofl_200:
 
Hmm...mine really weren't that much hassle. Didn't need any tools whatsoever. A minute or two of fiddling the position and angle around and both slipped in. A firm shove/wiggle from behind scooted them far enough forward to get the bolt in. When running, no leaks from any of the joints.

Previously I had Holeshot slip ons. One side fit fine, the right side wasn't bent right or something, since the lower headpipe refused to go in more than like 1/2" no matter what you did, and bolting the hangar on as intended resulted in that lower pipe frequently slipping out entirely. I ended up modifying the bracket so it held the can a little to the right, the pipe didn't slip out but it still leaked decently. When they got damaged in the laydown it wasn't a tough decision to replace them.
 

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