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thork86

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Apr 23, 2014
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Decided to change plugs today since former owner hadn't done it for the 3 yrs and 6k miles he owned it. 21k on the clock. 2006 model. This greeted me when I pulled the plug. This rust normal? More badness going on underneath the surface??

See pics.



 
yeah, that small hole below that you show is just a drain from around the spark plug. I would guess that the ones on the right side are worse because on the side stand they don't drain properly. I always blow compressed air in around the plug before removing it and then again back up into that drain to make sure anything down in there doesn't fall into the motor when the plug is removed.

Matt
 
Damn, I blew air in AFTER each plug was removed not before... But thanks for the reassurance guys.

I changed all 4, yep the right two were much worse, all were pretty fouled though. Thanks for the advice, glad nothing was wrong.

Just took her for a spin (got weird looks from everyone as I just had my cutoff jorts on lol). This bike is like a brand new machine, she definitely is pulling a little stronger now! Or it's in my mind since I changed the plugs and oil on my own! Haha.

Coolant flush next, then try to learn about carburetors! I have the 4 filter mods, and I think some sort of stage 7 carb jet kit? Still learning! Wish there was a way to hush up the Supertrapps :(

I'm in the Balt/Annap region.
 
Just be aware, If you leave the coolant system dry for too long, you will probably get gaskets and/or O-rings leaking from drying out and shrinking. It has caused me a lot of trouble. I would have everything ready and do it all in one fell swoop. I just rebuilt my carbs completely, it's good fun and not that hard, if you can do one, you can do 4. Just take as many photos as you can from every angle. I even took a slow moving video before removal of all the linkages and such. It came in very handy, you get things from angles that you miss in pics. Good luck and enjoy.
 
Your ok like the other guy's side. Water drain off hole. Me mind you just me I every now and then spry WD40 around the spark plugs, When I 1st bought my bike it look close to that when the motor was pull to have it working on.
 
Your ok like the other guy's side. Water drain off hole. Me mind you just me I every now and then spry WD40 around the spark plugs, When I 1st bought my bike it look close to that when the motor was pull to have it working on.

Say what?
 
Sounds like a foreign language translated to another language programmed by someone that couldn't speak either of them.

P.S. Or maybe just someone having a good go at learning there second language, if that's the case, I apologize in advance. :ummm:
 
Actually the plug doesn't look bad on the parts which count, the center electrode & side electrode. Neither one appears to have any material missing, & they have sharp edges. No apparent coatings cover them to the naked eye. Great close-ups by the way, much sharper & in-focus than we might see. Just spray some WD40 around the hole after you blow-out the recess w/compressed air before you remove the plug. Spark plug makers say plugs should go in dry, no lube.
 
Sounds like a foreign language translated to another language programmed by someone that couldn't speak either of them.

P.S. Or maybe just someone having a good go at learning there second language, if that's the case, I apologize in advance. :ummm:

Just my friend James I really don't think he proof reads before sending or he might dyslexic like me .
 
I agree the plug looks proper on the working end. With stage 7 they are generally a little brown-er or black-er color on the electrode. Looks as if you are getting the proper air with fuel mix. Changing plugs ?? was no issue with the running better, just peace of mind thing.
Sync the Carbs and keep them in sync, that does help.
Cip 1 .com sells a Voltswagon carb sync tool that is simple and as accurate as the mercury tubes. This one just sticks into the velocity tubes inside the air box. Just adjust each carb with the #2 carb setting and they are in sync.
 
Cip 1 .com sells a Voltswagon carb sync tool that is simple and as accurate as the mercury tubes. This one just sticks into the velocity tubes inside the air box. Just adjust each carb with the #2 carb setting and they are in sync.


I own and have used one of these on my max. Wasn't certain if it was accurate, but figured it got me damn close. Very simple to use and nothing to suck into the engine.
 
Thanks again guys, appreciate all the help and tips! Great to know she's running right, too.
 

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