V-boost disconnect?

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Hellboy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2013
Messages
360
Reaction score
2
Location
Perth, Australia
My V-boost doesn't fully open and I've adjusted the cable as tight as it will go.
While I've got my carbs off I've just been cleaning and checking the bike before re-installment. When the V-boost activates it doesn't pull the black box with the adjustment on it all the way to the end of it's travel but the cable has no more adjustment. I don't know if this means the servo is not strong enough or if the servo end of things can be adjusted, it's hard to tell. Even when I physically move the cable box to the extent of it's travel, I can feel that the butterflies still are not 90 degrees, they seem to only be about 25% with servo and about 50% with me manually moving the cable box. Of course if I just move the bracket on the butterflies it will freely move 100%.
After all that, I guess I'm wondering if there is any reason not to just open them 100% manually and disconnect the V-boost. Or does someone know how to get it working properly based on what I've said??? I appreciate any and all input on this.

Thanks, Matt
 
There should be a thread describing how to squeeze the vboost controller in order to get the servo to work right.
 
See post 2, you could have a stripped servo motor gear.


http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=371018#post371018

I've checked that and all seems normal. To be honest, it just seems like there isn't enough travel available to rotate the butterflies to 90 degrees. But at least if the servo could pull the cable so that the black cable box topped out it would at least be about 56-60 %.

I'm seriously considering just leaving them open, but I've read that they don't idle as well???
 
It's possible to get a decent idle with v-boost open. But, at least a full header system is needed to take advantage of it. Many like the rumppity idle of open boost. I've tried it both ways and have it stock currently. But I change like the wind. In your case, you'd have to get the cable situation corrected first or remove the v-boost entirely and use the stage 7 tubes instead.
 
Hey Hellboy Im in Perth as well, Ive read a lot of info on here and absolutely the best help you could get anywhere about your max.
I had issues with the servo but I was able to adjust the cable enough to make it fully open, since then my vboost control box has gone faulty so no vboost at all.
As sdt354 said you really need a full header and jet kit to take advantage of full time open.
Many people like the feel of the boost me included! I had the tboost which opened it at 3k but found 3k was my sort of cruising round town rev range so it was cutting in and out a lot making a not smooth ride.Certainally had a lot more kick in pants feel leaving it at the stock 6k position.
Since my box went faulty Im going down 2 different paths, I have purchased a ignitec module from Sean Morley which will hook directly to the boost servo and can be programmed to open at any % at any rev range,
I also have a gear shifter off a mountain bike with a manual cable that you can hook up and shift the butterflys open to any position on the fly. Loved this idea when reading the thread on it, but havent installed either yet........bike still in a work in progress stage
 
I've got the T-boost switch for 3K as well. It's no good around town, like you said. I love the feeling when v-boost kicks in as well, that's why I like to get it working correctly. I'm pulling the servo motor out tomorrow to take it apart and see what I can do.


Thanks guys

P.S. I'm actually in Toodyay but for our I say Perth for our over seas friends sake. Nice bike Huskyman510
 
One more thing, I hope. I've cable tied the manifold butterflies open fully. What I would like to know if someone knows is, Can I balance the carbs with these fully open? I would think that if you were going to run it like that then it makes sense to. If you balanced them closed and then opened them I would think that things would change, but I'm no mechanic, and I'm not sure.

Matt
 
Depends on what kind of synch tool you use. If you use a typical manometer, you cannot synch the carbs with the butterflies open. Cylinders 1&2 will read the same vacuum because they have a common plenum with the butterflies open. Same with 3&4. You need to synch with them closed with a manometer.

If you have a synch tool like the weber you can synch with v-boost butterflies open. http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Synchronizer_p/43-5712-0.htm
 
Back
Top