Water pump

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Ost85vmax

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So I feel like my bike runs hot. The coolant is a year or two old and I am going to change that but I have two other questions.

1. Is there a good system flush and if so has anyone had luck or is it a waste?

2. I know on boat motors the impeller will slowly go bad and pump less water. Would rebuilding the water pump help circulate more coolant?

Thanks guys.
 
If the impeller is in anti-corrosion inhibitor, it won't go bad. The one off my '85 is perfect, not a single spot of corrosion or cavitation.
If the water pump is weeping out of the hole under the bearing, then give it a rebuild. It's just bearings and seals.
 
at what points does it run hot? sitting still? moving? all the time? whats the average temp?

when i'm still it gets very hot but as soon as i move it sits at like a 3:30-4 o clock position which is pretty normal.
 
Well for instance yesterday on my ride home from work, which is about 20 miles, and I was in a hurry so was probably averaging 80 on the interstate. I wasn't stopped at all until I got into the driveway. I was only stopped for a minute to get the opener out and open the garage. I have an aftermarket temp gauge that was reading about 225. Switched on my fan overide and parked and shut the bike off but I like to leave the Dan run until the bike is cooling. Just seemed like it got to hot to fast and didn't cool down as quickly as normal. I know my thermo switch (stock one) doesn't ever turn the fan on and I always have to use my manual one. I am going to replace the coolant and check the thermostat to make sure it looks to be opening all the way. It was only in the high 70s here so I am afraid for the hot days.

Also when it was really hot it seems as if I could here some unusual ticking at the rear of the motor. Sounded like the lower end possible around the u joint that connects to the drive shaft but it was hard to pin point. I did use a it thermo and at the worst all cylinders looked to be around 235 deg.
 
Well for instance yesterday on my ride home from work, which is about 20 miles, and I was in a hurry so was probably averaging 80 on the interstate. I wasn't stopped at all until I got into the driveway. I was only stopped for a minute to get the opener out and open the garage. I have an aftermarket temp gauge that was reading about 225. Switched on my fan overide and parked and shut the bike off but I like to leave the Dan run until the bike is cooling. Just seemed like it got to hot to fast and didn't cool down as quickly as normal. I know my thermo switch (stock one) doesn't ever turn the fan on and I always have to use my manual one. I am going to replace the coolant and check the thermostat to make sure it looks to be opening all the way. It was only in the high 70s here so I am afraid for the hot days.

Also when it was really hot it seems as if I could here some unusual ticking at the rear of the motor. Sounded like the lower end possible around the u joint that connects to the drive shaft but it was hard to pin point. I did use a it thermo and at the worst all cylinders looked to be around 235 deg.


is the thermostat/thermo switch off of the 2000 engine? i'd be surprised if they went but definitely worth looking into. the thermo switch thing scares me it should def turn it on, altho even on my stock one its right about where i start panicking.
 
The mechanical thermostat is newer. The electrical switch to activate the fan I assume is original 85.
 
No one mentioned it but I came across old bikes with Radiators that needed attention. Caked up with crap and it seemed CLR would loosen it up and flush it good. I never saw a bad impeller with bad vanes but I have seen some with deep groove in the shaft. I trashed as it is a cheap part and should last a long time once a new seal and impeller assembly.
 
No one mentioned it but I came across old bikes with Radiators that needed attention. Caked up with crap and it seemed CLR would loosen it up and flush it good. I never saw a bad impeller with bad vanes but I have seen some with deep groove in the shaft. I trashed as it is a cheap part and should last a long time once a new seal and impeller assembly.

the shitty impeller shouldn't make it run hot unless the fins are broken eh? i completely agree about the radiator, maybe its a flow issue.
 
Isn't 225 normal operating temp? My fan doesn't come on till the needle is close to the red zone. And I have flushed, replaced coolant, etc. Also installed fan override switch but only use when stuck in traffic in Texas heat. I think these are designed to run at that temp.
 
After reading and reading it sounds like I am going to do a good flush and change my fluid. Then run it up to temp and make sure there isn't any air in the system and temps up to 220F aren't really that bad. I will just have to pay attention to see if it cools off as it should.
 
At 225 an engine isn't overheating. Cooling systems are pressurised only to stop the water boiling, as the normal operating temp is over 212.
 
This makes me feel better. Does anyone know at what temp the radiator cap will start to let fluid into the overflow?
 
RA warrior might he put a gauge with numbers on. maybe even KJ.

does the service manual list those values maybe?
 
This makes me feel better. Does anyone know at what temp the radiator cap will start to let fluid into the overflow?

The cap is not on the radiator but on the housing behind right scoop and it doesn't open by temperature directly but due pressure. If i recall correctly the pressure for opening is 1.1 bar and its engraved on the cap.
 
Yep just wondering at what temp on average is hot enough to build that pressure to open into the overflow. Just curious at what temp I can expect it to happen at.
 
Don't know that but if the coolant was a gas you could use Gay-Lussac gas law to find out the temperature corresponding to a 10% increase in pressure but i say again this is not a gas so no can do in that matter...
 

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