i got about 7-10k miles out of my ultras. that is with 95% of the time them being on 'high' i thought that was phenomenal. didn't mind paying a bit more as everyone i've ridden with says how bright they are.
What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
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i got about 7-10k miles out of my ultras. that is with 95% of the time them being on 'high' i thought that was phenomenal. didn't mind paying a bit more as everyone i've ridden with says how bright they are.
davesax36
Well-Known Member
Put on my neck covers, scoops, intake covers, checked oil change, and RODE MY BIKE!!!!!! I didn't go out for very long, but what a difference those carbs have made. Now that they are synched it's sooooo smooooth. Fresh oil looked super dirty when I got back, so I'm going to run two or three more changes through it this weekend to see if I can't get all the old stuff out of there. Seems that was what was making my clutch slip like crazy.
ZackDaniels
Well-Known Member
More Progress!
First thing isn't actually on the bike but whatever. My father-in-law picked up a dirt cheap used Harley seat at this motorcycle show last weekend, and a quick hardware store trip later it's a bitchin shop stool. Now I can scoot my goony ass around the garage instead of constantly leaning over and feeling like an old man.
Bars mounted back on bike complete with blinky lights (special thanks to that pink strap from a toolbag for holding the mirror and brake fluid reservoir for me).
In the process of disassembly I hosed up my throttle cable housing a bit. A mishap that may or may not have involved a rubber mallet and poor aim. So I got some stainless lines to replace it. Only marginally more than stock and nice looking so why not? The trouble with the new line is the ball end that was crimped on was just a bit too big for the housing.
Very light shaving with a Dremel and it fit fine. Sits fine in the push/pull wheel as well... I asked other members here who have used these SS lines and nobody else has had this problem so I think I just got a slightly defective crimp. It never seems to be as easy as it should be lately...
Here's what's under the V-Max scoops (hint: not actual ram air scoops):
Complete with loads of annoying Philips screws that I've been replacing as I go with a Allen head stainless steel fastener kit.
Some adjustments and freeplay tuning later everything can go back together without the use of pink straps.
I have some wiring to do yet to actually make those signals functional, but I'm so fed up with handlebar stuff I'm moving on to something easy. A seat swap from stock to a cut down and comfy seat. (Thanks a bunch 99 Max!)
Stock:
None:
New To Me Cut Down :
All back together and ready for a quick test ride tomorrow on the seat and throttle stuff. I hope it doesn't snow so I can get a couple miles in before taking it all back apart to finish up the wiring and finally get to the new springs and cartridge emulators I've had since X-Mas.
Now it just needs to not be 10 degrees outside.
First thing isn't actually on the bike but whatever. My father-in-law picked up a dirt cheap used Harley seat at this motorcycle show last weekend, and a quick hardware store trip later it's a bitchin shop stool. Now I can scoot my goony ass around the garage instead of constantly leaning over and feeling like an old man.
Bars mounted back on bike complete with blinky lights (special thanks to that pink strap from a toolbag for holding the mirror and brake fluid reservoir for me).
In the process of disassembly I hosed up my throttle cable housing a bit. A mishap that may or may not have involved a rubber mallet and poor aim. So I got some stainless lines to replace it. Only marginally more than stock and nice looking so why not? The trouble with the new line is the ball end that was crimped on was just a bit too big for the housing.
Very light shaving with a Dremel and it fit fine. Sits fine in the push/pull wheel as well... I asked other members here who have used these SS lines and nobody else has had this problem so I think I just got a slightly defective crimp. It never seems to be as easy as it should be lately...
Here's what's under the V-Max scoops (hint: not actual ram air scoops):
Complete with loads of annoying Philips screws that I've been replacing as I go with a Allen head stainless steel fastener kit.
Some adjustments and freeplay tuning later everything can go back together without the use of pink straps.
I have some wiring to do yet to actually make those signals functional, but I'm so fed up with handlebar stuff I'm moving on to something easy. A seat swap from stock to a cut down and comfy seat. (Thanks a bunch 99 Max!)
Stock:
None:
New To Me Cut Down :
All back together and ready for a quick test ride tomorrow on the seat and throttle stuff. I hope it doesn't snow so I can get a couple miles in before taking it all back apart to finish up the wiring and finally get to the new springs and cartridge emulators I've had since X-Mas.
Now it just needs to not be 10 degrees outside.
hijacker
Well-Known Member
Lookin' good Zach!
That seat looks cool, but it looks slippery. Hang on tight!
That seat looks cool, but it looks slippery. Hang on tight!
ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
paired it up with what I learned to be a kawi eliminator. i was sitting in traffic when a couple lanes to my left, a bike rolled by me with a growl as nasty as the yellow and green paint on his tank. through the cars i watched the guy rev his attitude and saw him goof the green light. so i says to myself, "self, let's see what kind of trouble we can get ourselves into". so i weaved through the cages and pulled up next to him at the next light. he looked over and through his helmet, i saw the delight in his eyes as he ID'd my Max. he must have seen my delight when he informed me the make of the bike and spied that it was a kerker strapped to his 1100 that was what was responsible for all the racket he was making. we bumped fists and when the light went green, tore into the tachs and speedos, toying with each other down US1. he managed to squeeze a late-model beemer in between us before we approached my intersection. but he merged into the same turn lane and commenced to salute the cordial goodbye wave, but i signalled that i too was turning down the same road. he gave the thumbs up. i passed him after overtaking the beemer in risk of getting my liscence confiscated by doubling the 45 mph speed limit over solid yellow lines. he was giving me what i figured out later was a "hurry up, there's a cop coming" frantic kind of signal as i pulled out from behind the beemer into the passing position and a thumbs up as i pulled in front of him. hehehe. we tore up the blvd down to the next intersection where i signalled that i was going straight. a glimpse in my mirrors showed his "i'm going straight, too" wave. man this next stretch was prolly the best of fun. i could hear him take advantage of the empty road ahead of us as he proceeded to redline through his gears. as soon as i heard what he was up to, blam, i followed suit and ended up waiting for him at the next light after triple-digits across the I95 overpass. he flipped up his lid and i nodded to answer his "your bike's hot?" question while pointing at my S7 oil return tube and v-stack covers bolted to my diaphragm lids. hehehe. shhhhh don't tell him. we talked a little more during redlight and held back an anxious soccer mom for a few seconds when the light turned green. i was gonna turn right but saw he was going straight, so i accompanied him and we laid into road one last time before we arrived at the stop sign that marked the end of the road. he was going left and i was going right. he gave me fist pump and i gave him a peace sign as we parted ways into the dusk. dont get me wrong, i dig the "communing with nature" rides, but man this particular commute was a breath of fresh air.
Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
tothemax93
Well-Known Member
unk: I ride alot just looking for "that guy"
dannymax
Well-Known Member
Haha! Love those pre-supper adrenaline rushes....Good story!! :clapping:
Fun time!
"ninjaneer,' glad you squeaked-by for doing that in an urban environment, but there are a lotta reasons why you save that for more-deserted roads-'soccer-moms,' latte-swillin' texting fools, jealous cagers, po-po, etc.
"zack," that seat pic looked ugly to me off the bike, was wondering what it looks like mounted, nowhere near as-bad as I feared. As to being slippery, that mid seat piece always keeps me in-place, but I can see where a shorter rider might want a Bultaco Metralla-style suede insert.
"zack," that seat pic looked ugly to me off the bike, was wondering what it looks like mounted, nowhere near as-bad as I feared. As to being slippery, that mid seat piece always keeps me in-place, but I can see where a shorter rider might want a Bultaco Metralla-style suede insert.
ZackDaniels
Well-Known Member
I prefer the styling of the cut down vs stock, that was never an issue for me at all. What is an issue... is that it snowed like 6" overnight. So much for that test ride :/
On my way to the AMCA meet in Dania Beach, FL where I will be turning these over to my machinist friend in Palm Beach Gardens FL for headwork. Head gaskets were still good. Light oil left in the cylinders overnight didn't show any loss into the crankcase. Leakdown & compression tests had one (#1) cyl. not pressurizing, compression was good & leakdown was good on the other 3. No obvious defects in the valve ass'y for #1, though one intake bucket did seem to be a bit 'tight' going back-in. Time to let the machinist do his work & refurbish 'em. Maybe a bad seal at the seat? Anyway, all it costs now is $$. Between having-done the bottom-end, including an undercut tranny, last year, and now the top-end, which wasn't touched during the crankcase work, it should be about as good as it's gonna be, short of pulling the pistons and replacing the rings. The machinist already saw the cylinders earlier in the week & said they looked fine. So, it sounds like the valve ass'y for the # one cyl is causing the issue, the disassembly will tell the story. My friend the machinist said he should be able to get them done this week.
Bonus pics of some GM iron at a Toys for Tots run in south FL. I like the '70-1/2 Z28 the best
Bonus pics of some GM iron at a Toys for Tots run in south FL. I like the '70-1/2 Z28 the best
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ZackDaniels
Well-Known Member
Machinists are great friends to have for jobs like that! Sounds like it's coming along nicely.
I pulled the bike out today intending to ride and give a good butt test on that seat, but the totally iced up driveway convinced me to just pose it. Probably for the best as I'm awaiting some posi-tap connectors to arrive in the mail so I can finish up those bar ends anyway.
All that's left for the off-season is suspension work, so here's how the lady will look for the first quarter/half of 2013. Maybe longer but I doubt the mod monkey will be leaving me alone for that long.
I pulled the bike out today intending to ride and give a good butt test on that seat, but the totally iced up driveway convinced me to just pose it. Probably for the best as I'm awaiting some posi-tap connectors to arrive in the mail so I can finish up those bar ends anyway.
All that's left for the off-season is suspension work, so here's how the lady will look for the first quarter/half of 2013. Maybe longer but I doubt the mod monkey will be leaving me alone for that long.
ZackDaniels
Well-Known Member
I love all of that. Looks gorgeous, and nice work.
Thanks I love your bikes pictures
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Blacksun71
Active Member
Replaced the original carb diaphragm cover screws with allen heads. The phillips ones were softer than I expected. Messed two pretty completely, need to continue the work tomorrow. Any tips how to get them off?
I use two tools-one is a 10" straight-jaw Vise-grip locking pliers, just make-sure you get a grip on the widest part of the head, I don't have as-much luck using the needle-nose Vise-grips.
The second, is to use a cutoff disc in a Dremel and to cut a slot into the head, going almost-down to the diaphragm cover itself, and then using a slot-tip screwdriver that is a good, tight fit to remove the screw.
I do not recommend using an impact driver!!! Don't ask me 'how do you know this!':confused2:
Either method should remove any diaphragm cover screw. I don't have to use penetrating oil, but if it makes you feel better, go-ahead.
Blacksun71
Active Member
Thanks for the warning Fire-medic. The impact driver would have been my weapon of choice for tomorrow. And I'm not gonna ask how do You know. I just trust on Your hands on experience. So it's time to get my dremel out of the closet.
I don't mind, I broke a carb body from one too-many enthusiastic licks w/a ball pein hammer on the impact driver. I had a good fit of the new phillips-tip in the screw, it had worked for the other screws, but maybe that one carb body had a porosity or crystallization in the alloy of the potmetal, or it could have been too-much of a swing. In any-event, I heard a sickening 'cra-ack!' and saw the carb body open a fissure, instantly turning it to junk.
For working on anything mechanical, straight-jaw Vise-grips and a Dremel tool w/a variety of bits are indispensable. I can't recall how-many times the Dremel has saved my bacon over some project that would have been near-impossible w/o it. I have a gas-ax, two different Milwaukee side-grinders, an air chisel, pneumatic cutoff tool, 4" electric cutoff tool, hacksaws, cold chisels, you-name-it, but the Dremel has paid for itself many times over. I got my first hobby rotary tool for working on slot cars when I was a kid in the early 1960's and once in-awhile I'll use it instead of my newer Dremel just for 'old-times-sake.' I asked for it for Christmas one year and my Dad bought it for me, he's been gone 40 years now, and every time I pull it out, I recall finding it under the Christmas tree and how-excited I was to get it. It was probably my first tool I could lay-claim to as being 'mine,' and I still have it. It is probably 50 years old.
Anyway, good-luck with your screws.
For working on anything mechanical, straight-jaw Vise-grips and a Dremel tool w/a variety of bits are indispensable. I can't recall how-many times the Dremel has saved my bacon over some project that would have been near-impossible w/o it. I have a gas-ax, two different Milwaukee side-grinders, an air chisel, pneumatic cutoff tool, 4" electric cutoff tool, hacksaws, cold chisels, you-name-it, but the Dremel has paid for itself many times over. I got my first hobby rotary tool for working on slot cars when I was a kid in the early 1960's and once in-awhile I'll use it instead of my newer Dremel just for 'old-times-sake.' I asked for it for Christmas one year and my Dad bought it for me, he's been gone 40 years now, and every time I pull it out, I recall finding it under the Christmas tree and how-excited I was to get it. It was probably my first tool I could lay-claim to as being 'mine,' and I still have it. It is probably 50 years old.
Anyway, good-luck with your screws.
hijacker
Well-Known Member
Got back into the garage today and installed the Raptor shift light I got from Cycle One-Off, very easy install. I took a bunch of pictures and put up instructions in the How-To Guides forum: http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=27494
Also, pulled off the stock grips and mirrors and installed a set of D-3 grips and bar-end mirrors.
Also, pulled off the stock grips and mirrors and installed a set of D-3 grips and bar-end mirrors.
