wheel offset

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Because they didn't care or know better in 1985 (more actually early 1980's when development started).
 
:punk: You can't correct it with the wheel. It is offset about 3/8" to the right side of the bike. The final drive pushes it to the right. Even using the stock wheel and adding a bigger tire makes you swap the washer pushing it further to the right. Only way to correct is chain drive or offset the swingarm which are both very costly. Good Luck, Spurs
 
Supousely it should help with balance...

I imagine looking at the rear axle as a balance beam and the wheel as the fulcrum. If the wheel were perfectly centered the bike would tip left because the left side is heavier with the differential and driveshaft,etc. To make to make it balance out it seems to me the rear wheel should have been offset to the left, not the right.

I could be looking at it wrong?
 
I imagine looking at the rear axle as a balance beam and the wheel as the fulcrum. If the wheel were perfectly centered the bike would tip left because the left side is heavier with the differential and driveshaft,etc. To make to make it balance out it seems to me the rear wheel should have been offset to the left, not the right.

I could be looking at it wrong?


:punk: Balance isn't really what the VMAX needs when sitting still. It wobbles at different speeds because the rear wheel is offset from the front one by about 3/8". When these two wheels have a different centerline they are constantly fighting for that straight line or to follow each other. The bigger the rear wheel the bigger the offset unless you offset the swingarm, not notch it. Turning left with a big rear wheel is much easier than turning right. It's the offset and wheel center line that makes it that way. Lots of problems with handling when you get a bigger rear wheel. Spurs
 
I imagine looking at the rear axle as a balance beam and the wheel as the fulcrum. If the wheel were perfectly centered the bike would tip left because the left side is heavier with the differential and driveshaft,etc. To make to make it balance out it seems to me the rear wheel should have been offset to the left, not the right.

I could be looking at it wrong?

Not quite...anyway thats why I've said "supousely" :biglaugh:
 
" Lots of problems with handling when you get a bigger rear wheel. Spurs"

I have stock wheels, but bigger tires front AND rear. I think it actually handles better, not so "twitchy". Maybe that's more because of the oversize front tire, though. I run 120/90 front and 170/80 rear.
 
Our extended swingarms are normally offset .250" to correct wheel offset.
 
Not quite...anyway thats why I've said "supousely" :biglaugh:

Przemek,
When I look at it I don't understand how moving it to the right can help balance? Id be interested to hear more of your opinion on the subject.

On another note, have you ever converted a '08+ gsxr 600 or 750 rear rim for use on a Vmax?
 
Our extended swingarms are normally offset .250" to correct wheel offset.


:punk: Sean, I guess that would be close to correcting the original 3/8" offset with a stock 3-1/2" wheel. However when you install a 5.5" or 6.25 " wheel you could not correct for that. The centerline would move over to the right quite a bit making it harder to turn right and very easy to turn left. This happens because the left side of the wheel can not move over to the left because the swingarm and final drive are in the way. You need a swingarm with multiple u-joints or a chain drive to center the wheel. Very costly mod, Spurs
 
Przemek,
When I look at it I don't understand how moving it to the right can help balance? Id be interested to hear more of your opinion on the subject.

On another note, have you ever converted a '08+ gsxr 600 or 750 rear rim for use on a Vmax?

Some says thats like a dividing scale(?) and since you have a heavy pumpkin
on the left, by moving more weight to the right you will get it balanced.

06 with a straight spokes - yes.
07> with slanted(?) - never.
 
:punk: Sean, I guess that would be close to correcting the original 3/8" offset with a stock 3-1/2" wheel. However when you install a 5.5" or 6.25 " wheel you could not correct for that. The centerline would move over to the right quite a bit making it harder to turn right and very easy to turn left. This happens because the left side of the wheel can not move over to the left because the swingarm and final drive are in the way. You need a swingarm with multiple u-joints or a chain drive to center the wheel. Very costly mod, Spurs

There's also some room on pivots to play.
 
There's also some room on pivots to play.


:punk: Prez, not really, using the wrong pivot point adjusters in the wrong place does not work correctly and keep the bikes wheels in alignment. If you take your bike to a place that measures alignment in .0001 increments you will find eyeballing the rear wheel to see if it's in the center of the back fender is not a good way to check alignment. I have had a few beers today but would be glad to post pictures and documentation to show you that centering the wheel in the bike frame can not happen without a chain drive or a very expensive multi angle swingarm. Don't want to get in a pissing match, but I'm tired of people saying they can center a 6" wheel or a 200 tire in a stock or notched swingarm. Happy Sunday, Spurs
 
i agree..... my max handles real well, but alot of cash was spent by previous owner. r.c. wheels 18,s 180 rear 130 front avons. 2 inch lower springs in front half an inch in back, progressive, but the real key i think is the steering damper as i have never had any wobble or shakes.
 

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