wtf mate

[joesteggs]

Hey guys,
Have had a host of issues with my "new" 86 vmax. You guys have helped out a ton so far, but this one is a bit wierd... So my bike stopped starting about 2 months ago, the lights dim, the gages sometimes stop working, missfires, popping, backfiring, and surging. But it is all extremely intermitant. One day its perfect, the next day it surges till it warms up, the next day the lights are stobing without it on. Thus far I have replaced, all of the wire connecters except the ones under the airbox. I have replaced the regulator and the battery. At one point I took it to a shop and they said my stator tested fine, but there was a melted connector/wiring between my stator and regulator and to replace the regulator. I have been push starting it for ever, it sucks but atleast I get to ride . However, the other day, it like wouldn't push start. Kept turning off right after it turned on. I finally towed it behind my truck (fat ass was getting tired of pushing) and got it to stay on after 2 tries. Took it for a ride and it was lurching back and forth something fierce. (way more than usual). Turned the engine off and noticed with the key on and it in neutral all of my lights were strobing....

this is where it gets wierder. I grabbed my old battery (one that came with it) popped it on the trickle charger over night, replaced all the plugs and bought some seafoam. I put my meter on the battery and it read 14.9v today, so I popped that back on the bike, all of my lights were bright as all get out. My wife suggested trying to start it so I humored her... It turned over no problem! My lights stopped flickering, it ran smooth, no missing or popping and no surging. So I was thinking I got scrooged with my "new awesome, wont have to replace for a long time" battery. However, after every start and stop the starter turned slower and it took longer to start... My batter seems to be full (all my lights are bright and not dimming when I break or accelerate like before) but it wont start at all. Also, tonight after work, I tried to start it again, and my headlights and console lights turned off with an audible "click" noise. It wouldn't push start either. Randomly they turned back on, brightly, on the third push start attempt. So I tried to start it again, and same click and everything turned off. So I left it there and caught a ride home.

Sorry for the long write up but wanted to give as much background as possible. Thanks for the help in advance guys!
p.s. I will be fixing myself so any practical advice would be great minus a link to the wiring problem flow chart (thats hard to do without being able to start it)

 

[KJShover]

These things don't really like low batteries and tend to be weak in the charging department.

This sounds like whats going on with your ride. I'd charge the battery, then start the bike. While it's running check the voltage.

Then I'd do the crimp fix

Then I'd take a peek at the R/R

Then go from there.

 

[joesteggs]

do you have a link for the crimp fix? Do you think it's possible i put a bad regulator on from the sound of it? also, could the starter have grounding issues that could cause it just to turn off like that? Thanks for the quick response btw

 

[KJShover]

No problem, hope I can be of some help.

As far as the crimp fix, here is a link; http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/crimp.htm

It could very well be possible you installed a bad R/R, I've seen it a few times where ppl get used one and it's fine for a little bit, then takes a dive. As far as the starter, They don't like low voltage at all, they click up a storm and the bolts loosen up. I'm not sure about the shutting off. Have you checked the ignition switch? There might be an issue there. There were a few people who were having a shut off and other wierd things going on with thier bike and it turned out to be a oxidized ignition switch connection.

 

[maleko89]

I would go ahead and clean both the frame and engine grounding mounts and wires. Engine ground is near oil filler cap and frame is on right side near fuel pump bracket. Remove battery and get it charged and bring it in to Walmart for testing.

 

[SpecOps13]

Odyssey Battery Too...

 

[jfeagins]

I'd bet you got at least ONE bad, really bad connector someplace. And it's probably very close to the battery itself. Sounds like when you replaced the old battery back in, you jostled that loose connector in some way, PLUS, by adding the fully charged battery, you were helping the bad connection to overcome itself (briefly) to get ample voltage to where it needs to be for a properly running Vmax.

If it were mine, I'd concentrate on connectors right close to the battery and the batt box. Look for green corrosion coming out of a connector. You might try putting an ohm meter across some connectors to guarantee their individual continuities.

 

[joesteggs]

what would i be looking for with the ohm meter. I have replace all of the stock connectors with butt connectors.. but am still having the issue. Do you guys think the problem could be caused by the starter since power is getting killed when I hit the button?

 

[ninjaneer]

you might want to look into firefly's fix in the Fixing the 'Splice' for Improved Charging thread. i personally have just glanced at it and still need to gather the forum's opinions before pursuing this.

 

[joesteggs]

went to go push start my bike last night to bring it home, and tried like ten times.... it would turn on and turn off like it wasnt getting power... is it possible i blew a fuse? Which one should i check... None of my lights are turning on with the key...

 

[Rusty McNeil]

To find out if you have a charging problem, you need to get the battery up to normal voltage and then get the bike started.

With the bike running read the DC voltage at the battery, not the pos and the frame etc, read + - AT the battery, to find out what is making it to the battery, you compare this to what is coming directly out of the r/r at its connector to see if you have voltage drop issues via wiring problems, or a bad regulator. If you battery is undercharged or overcharged it's tough to troubleshoot the charging system, so DO charge it first...

You can also measure AC voltage at the battery and it will sometimes give you ac "ripple" which is indicative of failing diodes in the r/r.....but how much is arbitrary if you don't know what a good system is putting out in ac ripple (no r/r is perfect)

A screwed up r/r can aslo overcharge, which is just as bad since it'll very quickly ruin a battery....Also need to check the stator output, should be about 40-60 volts between all possible combinations of any two of the three white stator wires...

You also need to pull the whole main fuse holder and look at it carefully for melted plastic or burning which is causes by loose connections, they do ikt all time and cause intermittent problems

Ground everything, especially the r/r case and the grnd wire if it has one, preferably running them straight to the battery, and ground the battery straight to the engine case and the frame with good wires.

Also run a second new wire straight from r/r positive dircetly to the battery, you can leave all the factory wiring in place and just parrallel it with this new wiring