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Most folks don't have the knowledge, or tooling to perform measurements that would be precise enough to determine which piston came from which cylinder (unless you have some major wear issues happening). It would be nice to put them back in their original position but you probably won't be able...

I'd start by charging the battery again and then having it load tested.

Is the pressure plate properly aligned? It will physically bolt on in any position but if not properly lined up, it won't work

Nice looking covers. You need to thing about putting in some stainless screws to finish it off. https://www.amazon.com/Countersunk-Socket-Screws-Stainless-Thread/dp/B01HBNHJCK?th=1

I don't think its hard to keep the vmax carbs synched at all. If you don't remove the carbs from the bike, its a once a season check and typically, doesn't need much of an adjustment.

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Can you hear the v-boost servo cycling when the key is turned on before starting the bike?

What exhaust do you have? Hard to tell from your avatar but it doesn't look stock. What is your carb setup? You may just need to do a little tuning.

Morley's Muscle should have what you need. Email Sean, [email protected]

Bike looks good Mike. I like the blue hue to the carbon fiber!

Depends on what you have done and the what wheel you use. With a notched arm and the right wheel, you can fit a 200 tire. My arm is extended 3" but I did not have it notched. The arm was offset a bit to better center the wheel on the bike which put the driveshaft closer to wall of the arm...

+1. No cotter pin goes there Late model gen 1 has a self locking nut, early model has a castellated nut and cotter pin

Solid motor mounts add to the problem. A bar snake, filling the bar with sand/bb's/weight of some kind, bar end weights. Check the motor mounting areas and make sure all the bolts are tight.

What is a leaf screen?

It does seem that way but, its the nature of the vmax.

I've had to dremel a slot in diaphragm coves before.

The tool kit sits under the passenger seat, on top of the fender. You can access it with the middle section of the seat flipped up.

Put the oem collector on a jack or use ratchet straps to pull up close to the final height so your not trying to lift it and align it. Loosen the header pipes up near the cylinder so you get some wiggle room.

Can't tell you why Barnett sent you extra plates. Yes, remove the wire, half size friction and steel plate, spring, and spring seat. Install a full size friction and steel plate in their place.

It will physically bolt in place but the offset is not correct