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Congrats Drew you bought a GREAT bike! I hope you enjoy yours as much as I've enjoyed mine. I would definitely remove the excess oil or it will most likely make a mess on the drive pumpkin and wheel after it gets good and hot and exits the vent. It's an easy fix though ........you just need...

Have you been to Barber Motorsports Park during Vintage Weekend in the early fall? I've been there twice.....like Heaven to me.

I agree 100% ! That is a classy custom build correct for that time period......I wouldn't change a single bolt either!

Really nice!

Gasoline weighs 6.3 pounds per gallon. You should be running with a gallon or less, and filling only when necessary.

Motor mounts.

They don't hold anything....but they don't weigh anything either. I'd say less than a pound.

Sean Morley has aluminum mounts on his drag bike. They were custom made by a shop......I think it was through Tim Nash when his bike was at Gurued Gear being tuned. BTW his bike made over 200 HP on race fuel.

You could replace your motor mounts with some material that's lighter.... they're made out of iron. I think they weigh 15 lbs.

I would say no effect on engine performance.....and there will be less drag. Someone I know of that raced their VMax took off the lower radiator for weight savings. Not sure if he ran on the street like that though. Do you already have a lithium battery?

Please contact Neal directly, his contact information is in the first post. Thanks!

I've had several but this is my favorite for lifting the rear of the bike for service or rear tire change. https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemcatalogs/p/all/yamaha_motorcycle_accessories-stands/5632a3df87a866079834c300/rear-wheel-stand-by-harris I just checked and that one seems hard to find...

I also have always rotated the coupler so that the keyway is either at 12:00 or 6:00. Just seems to go in easier that way. If you put the bike in neutral you can use a broomstick or I use a wooden closet rod to turn it, then put the bike in gear.

I already told you the remedy.....the coupler socket droops and the axle droops. The nylon cone is not always enough to correct for that. You need to push the axle in and then lift through the access hole and they will mate. It wouldn't hurt smear some grease on the nylon cone either.

X-Pipe and wheel are sold.

OK......o_O

There is an access hole on the swingarm with a rubber plug in it. Take the plug out and get a screwdriver in there to lift the axle until it's level. That should allow it to be able to be pushed into the coupler. That's if the spline is truly aligned. You need to look down the swingarm tunnel...

Sorry no I don't.

Intake scoops are sold. I'm very surprised the X-Pipe is still available......On the old StarVmax site used X-Pipes would sell in minutes for way more than what Neal is asking, they are so desirable. A lot of other very nice parts as well.

Most of the fasteners on the bike have lock-tight on them from the factory. I snapped off one of the allen bolts that holds the cam covers on, on my first Gen 2.