240mm rear tire on Vmax 1700 ???

[Itgoes]

Anyone knows what difference it is between stock bearings and the "Wide Wheel Bearing Kit" and do I need it? (Using a widened stock rim)

Are you installing the factory wide wheel from Yamaha?

Here are the instructions.

 

[The One]

Are you installing the factory wide wheel from Yamaha?

Here are the instructions.

No, it's a stock 18x6J rim that is widened to 18x8J, what I don't know is if the Yamaha wide wheel have special needs for a different bearing? or do I also need the "wide wheel bearing kit" ( 2S3-F53S2-V0-00 )

+Thanks for the Install Manual!

 

[g2gboom]

with the 240mm rear would you have to remove the final drive every time you change out a tire?

 

[Itgoes]

with the 240mm rear would you have to remove the final drive every time you change out a tire?

Yup...

 

[g2gboom]

There goes my desire to fit a wide rear.

 

[one2dmax]

I think the parts are the same just saves you trying to remove and transfer the stuff over.

 

[The One]

I think the parts are the same just saves you trying to remove and transfer the stuff over.

I wonder... called my local Yamaha dealer and they gave me 2 different prices on stock bearing vs. wide wheel bearing (almost +50%)

 

[why2kmax]

Dont

No, it's a stock 18x6J rim that is widened to 18x8J, what I don't know is if the Yamaha wide wheel have special needs for a different bearing? or do I also need the "wide wheel bearing kit" ( 2S3-F53S2-V0-00 )

+Thanks for the Install Manual!

Id PM Sean to be sure but Id think if yours is a stock rim that was just widened, the bearings needed would be the stock ones since the hub etc is still the OEM one not the WW Kit. If you were using the Yam Wide wheel kit then you would use the wide kit bearing. Again, Im just guessing and dont know for sure but I dont see any reason why you would need the other bearing kit if you are using the OEM wheel. Ask Sean what he uses.

 

[The One]

Dont


Id PM Sean to be sure but Id think if yours is a stock rim that was just widened, the bearings needed would be the stock ones since the hub etc is still the OEM one not the WW Kit. If you were using the Yam Wide wheel kit then you would use the wide kit bearing. Again, Im just guessing and dont know for sure but I dont see any reason why you would need the other bearing kit if you are using the OEM wheel. Ask Sean what he uses.

Sean? one2dmax?
I agree with you (and hope) it should be sufficient with stock bearings!

 

[Butch Cassidy]

Avon makes great oversized tires. They are well rounded and are great when wet or damp. I'm sure you have heard already but large, wide tires handle like sh!t when turning / carving mountain roads. Have a chopper with a 300mm rear tire and it will go very fast in a straight line but turns like a train. It has a 2032cc or 124 cu in engine and is purpose buit to go straight quickly. I would NEVER go wider on my 1700 v max. It handles perfectly with the tire it has. A 240 or 300 rear tire would not keep the tire from going up in smoke through the first (3) gears anyway. 15-20 psi and throttle control may. 1700 vmax is one of (5) of my bikes I currently own and have owned over (35) bikes in my lifetime. It is my favorite unless I am going on a long trip. Only complaint is 80 miles to a tank full. A (3) gallon fuel bladder in my passenger seat bag cures that minor problem though.

I also have a coupler of Big Dogs ... can you point me to your 'fuel bladder' solution..? Than ks

 

[The One]

Anyone knows why the h*ll my axle won’t come back on? Know there is one spline that is thicker then the rest (idiot way to construct!!) and I have managed to get the splines correct BUT I can’t get it to go all the way in! I have tried everything I can think of but nothing helps!!

 

[Itgoes]

Anyone knows why the h*ll my axle won’t come back on? Know there is one spline that is thicker then the rest (idiot way to construct!!) and I have managed to get the splines correct BUT I can’t get it to go all the way in! I have tried everything I can think of but nothing helps!!

There is an access hole on the swingarm with a rubber plug in it. Take the plug out and get a screwdriver in there to lift the axle until it's level. That should allow it to be able to be pushed into the coupler.

That's if the spline is truly aligned. You need to look down the swingarm tunnel with a flashlight to determine what the orientation of the coupler is and then you need to rotate the drive shaft to match.

 

[The One]

There is an access hole on the swingarm with a rubber plug in it. Take the plug out and get a screwdriver in there to lift the axle until it's level. That should allow it to be able to be pushed into the coupler.

That's if the spline is truly aligned. You need to look down the swingarm tunnel with a flashlight to determine what the orientation of the coupler is and then you need to rotate the drive shaft to match.

No need for the screwdriver thanks tho the plastic cone in front of the axel...it guides the coupler to match...and I have done like you said with a flashlight but still it just comes on a small part then it stops and I can’t manage to get further...really frustrating!! It’s 01:06 here to...

 

[The One]

The thick part is dead-center to the small yellow dot on the coupler..and Yes I have put it in first gear so it does not move...

 

[Itgoes]

No need for the screwdrive

OK......

 

[The One]

and here is a pic on the thick spline center to the small dot... I really have no clue what I’m doing wrong...

 

[Itgoes]

and here is a pic on the thick spline center to the small dot... I really have no clue what I’m doing wrong...

I already told you the remedy.....the coupler socket droops and the axle droops. The nylon cone is not always enough to correct for that. You need to push the axle in and then lift through the access hole and they will mate.

It wouldn't hurt smear some grease on the nylon cone either.

 

[The One]

I already told you the remedy.....the coupler socket droops and the axle droops. The nylon cone is not always enough to correct for that. You need to push the axle in and then lift through the access hole and they will mate.

It wouldn't hurt smear some grease on the nylon cone either.

did like you said, lifted it and sure it goes in easier but still did not go all the way (added grease too) have a little less then an inch left..

 

[Itgoes]

I also have always rotated the coupler so that the keyway is either at 12:00 or 6:00. Just seems to go in easier that way.

If you put the bike in neutral you can use a broomstick or I use a wooden closet rod to turn it, then put the bike in gear.

 

[The One]

Still no result... beginning to hate the person whom came up with the idea of having one special spline...is there a reason for that?