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thats a long time for carbs to sit...Start looking for a used set on ebay...buy a case of sea foam lol..

bypass it for now and see if that works.. does it stall from clutch grabbing hard or is it getting ignition cut off?? In other words is it a low rpm stall or a intentional ign cut off?

those so called strong springs from barnett suck..I had a set made custom for mine alot stronger spring..I went from DD to barnett and was a joke even with the strong springs til i had special ones made to my specs... Again realize I am 200 pounds ,,run a bored out 12-1 compression stage 4...

if u send me your email ill send u a wiring diagram..or u can go to morleys site heres the link for the diagram morley has.. http://www.morleysmuscle.com/how-to/vmax-wiring

everything runs off the key which is activated by the ignition key switch... By pass the switch to see if the fuse and the bike is ok its in the switch..If not then it has to be from the output line from switch on..In other words if its not the switch it has to be anywhere from that output line...

yes thats cause u have 3 wires coming off the key switch..The on blue wire powers all the little stuff while the main red powers ignition...Pull the filter and box out...to the right front where the box was there should be your 3 wires running to the switch..Check there crimps and connectors for...

using 2008 cbr cops..short ones with no problems for clearance... at 1.3 ohms with a 1.5 resistor aluminum body wire wound power resister to be exact,,,25 watt 1% tolerance....Total ohms when complete was 2.9 ohms and I am running a dyna 3000 with no problems..Runs like a charm..Ran Iridium...

Im a drag race guy,,I like looks and go,,but feature wise like the auto cancel that I already took off long ago I dont care about..As a matter of fact that auto cancel feature is just a problem waiting to happen... along with that fuel pump cut off when ur fuel light comes on... One thing I...

yeah I know that they use that 1" bar and thats the only real pain cause like u know u can always make a wiring harness work,,but making bars bigger is a pain.. Any suggestions on any other stuff that might work ??Im thinking a newer yamaha vstar or something along those lines... When u used...

problem solved...After trying a few different ways to filter the signal..I tried something a little strange that I thought might work..I took shielded wire,,put it over the tach hot lead...I connected my tach to the shield instead of the wire,,,it works perfect...No jumps and is accurate at hi...

Problem fixed...Just as I thought I went right to the ingnition switch,,it was oxidized and the connector was dirty...I stripped the wire 2 inches b4 I found decent clean wire so these old 80s style wires really have crappy insulation... Now the only problem that still exists is when I hot the...

main fuse connection and fuse connection was 1st thing I checked...Really strange that everything shuts off...If it were the kick stand that would just kill the motor ,but shouldnt shut the whole bike down..the only other thing it can be is a ground,,or ign switch(key switch)....those are the...

I feel your pain bro..I just got stuck in brooklyn...Bike just shut off,,then starts i can go 3 feet when i get on it shuts right off...She will idle,,but when i go forward she shuts down,,everything all light everything..Im thinking ignition switch might be the problem...That relay for the...

When i take off with the bike it just shuts off as soon as u start to go,,everything goes off ,,headlights and everything ..Then comes on when i leave it off for a min,,,I can drive it 3 feet then everything shuts off again.. Any ideas?I was thinking stator short,,but the bike should still run...

ive run with vboost and straight stage 7 with manifolds..I also have run downdraft carbs with absolutely no drop in gas mileage ..So using the vboost really does nothing for gas mileage ...Ive had 5 maxes and my newest project with vgas and direct manifolds gets an easy 100 miles to the tank...

remember maxes are old school technology which means loose clearances ,,,not like the new stuff at all which uses thin synthetics ...So dont listen to what oil is better just understand with loose clearances its better to use heavier oil 20-50 to fill those nice gaps between the bearings...

so far no good..I tried a few different combos on the resistors with no luck at all...Next up I will try a ferrite magnet to see if I kill line noise (EMI) that may help.. I know that they do sell cop tach adapters for cars that ive used in the past,,but not sure they will work and they are...

no has nothing to do with the tach setting im ok there....Just very irratic,,jumps all over the place ....Its an aftermarket tach by trail tech ....Its just not a steady signal its needs a buffer like a resistor ,,but not sure which resistor to tun...I guess ill experiment..I figured there might...

tried feed off cops,,,,doesnt work right,,,,,,tried tach feed,,doesnt work,,,running out of options...thought there might be a feed off the dyna 3000..

aftermarket tach and yes I did use resistors..1.5 ohms cause most of the denso cops are 1.4 and dyno needs to see 3 ohms so im good..the line going into the coils wont read steady at all so i need a better more stable source...