bike shuts off on take off and everything shuts off

[pumacorp]

When i take off with the bike it just shuts off as soon as u start to go,,everything goes off ,,headlights and everything ..Then comes on when i leave it off for a min,,,I can drive it 3 feet then everything shuts off again..
Any ideas?I was thinking stator short,,but the bike should still run off my battery...
Im thinking maybe the ignition switch is dirty?

 

[jfeagins]

loose or bare short in the kickstand switch wire? Wait, that wouldn't kill the headlight.

Loose battery wire? Could be the pos or neg. Maybe something loose at the main fuse box.

 

[one2dmax]

Maybe main key switch? headlight circuit does pass through the start button and it's not uncommon for them to stick on just enough to not let the headlight turn on. BUT, the start button won't usually kill the bike. Sidestand switch as Jim noted could be falling down but that seems odd too. Loose wire or fuse (note there is a main fuse located just over the positive terminal of the battery under the seat).

Sean

 

[pumacorp]

main fuse connection and fuse connection was 1st thing I checked...Really strange that everything shuts off...If it were the kick stand that would just kill the motor ,but shouldnt shut the whole bike down..the only other thing it can be is a ground,,or ign switch(key switch)....those are the only 2 systems that are running the whole circuit of the bike..
I have cops and a dyna,,but with resistors and if the unit fried it shouldnt shut everything down...

 

[naughtyG]

Either the ignition switch, main fuse or the wiring involved with these.

Usually the ignition switches can fail, I've never seen the main fuse fry.

The wiring OTOH.. I had much gremlins not long ago, although my problem was the inverse of yours: I could not switch the bike off!!

In the end, harness replacement was my only cure, and I know about electrics and took most of my old harness apart, without any luck.

 

[richwrench]

My bike had a similar issue. I took apart, cleaned & greased ( with di-electric ) every single connector on my bike. Some connectors looked fine. Others, like the ignition switch, were green with corrosion. Then I dis-assembled the ignition switch, turn signal & starter switches & cleaned & greased them as well. Never had as much as a hiccup since. I can't tell you what exactly fixed it, but whatever it was, it was an instant & permanent fix. When mine crapped out, I would lose ignition, tach & lights, FWIW.

 

[satariel666]

main fuse connection and fuse connection was 1st thing I checked...Really strange that everything shuts off...If it were the kick stand that would just kill the motor ,but shouldnt shut the whole bike down..the only other thing it can be is a ground,,or ign switch(key switch)....those are the only 2 systems that are running the whole circuit of the bike..
I have cops and a dyna,,but with resistors and if the unit fried it shouldnt shut everything down...

Well I blew one 7,5 A ignition fuse with resistors and dyna but, chnged to 10A and no more problems.
Remember that even while You have resistors with dyna the current is higher and even sligtly imperfection at any swich or connector may cause that symphtoms.

 

[pumacorp]

Problem fixed...Just as I thought I went right to the ingnition switch,,it was oxidized and the connector was dirty...I stripped the wire 2 inches b4 I found decent clean wire so these old 80s style wires really have crappy insulation...

Now the only problem that still exists is when I hot the left blinker the dash and motor go up and down with the blinker,,real strange..

I did clean all the connectors and greased them with no luck so far,,,
thinking the switch itself is bad,,but I did clean and grease that as well...

I think I am going to try a vrod blinker switch and reservoir set up cause the max needs a real face lift in the handle bar area...

 

[one2dmax]

Good luck, I adapted a harley control set to the vmax but you'll find out quickly that the 4 wires from the Harley don't match up too well to the 5 wires yamaha used.

Sean

 

[satariel666]

Good luck, I adapted a harley control set to the vmax but you'll find out quickly that the 4 wires from the Harley don't match up too well to the 5 wires yamaha used.

Sean

That should be doable as far I will know how that HD switch looks like.

 

[one2dmax]

You will likely need to "sleeve" the handlebar to get it to the 1" that most HD controls are set up for.

Sean

 

[pumacorp]

yeah I know that they use that 1" bar and thats the only real pain cause like u know u can always make a wiring harness work,,but making bars bigger is a pain..
Any suggestions on any other stuff that might work ??Im thinking a newer yamaha vstar or something along those lines...


When u used the HD ones did the throttle cables match up ok?

 

[one2dmax]

We made custom cables (and can get anything you would want made up). It wasn't terribly hard to do but did take a bit of work and some loss of features (like the auto cancel).

Sean

 

[pumacorp]

Im a drag race guy,,I like looks and go,,but feature wise like the auto cancel that I already took off long ago I dont care about..As a matter of fact that auto cancel feature is just a problem waiting to happen...


along with that fuel pump cut off when ur fuel light comes on...

One thing I cant get used to is that opposite side blinker button. that the harleys have...

I am going to do away with the turn signal flasher soon...going to try electronic sp i can run leds and also nice and small and no worries of shorts..

 

[kevman]

Awhile back I fitted the switch gear off a TRX 850 and it was a very simple change over and it gives you high beam pass switch as well.Even the connectors were the same but I did have to change the wiring but I can't remember just what I did.:ummm:Kevman.

 

[vmax626]

My ignition fuse blows when I turn the key on , but I have power to everything else.:ummm:
Daveunk:

 

[pumacorp]

yes thats cause u have 3 wires coming off the key switch..The on blue wire powers all the little stuff while the main red powers ignition...Pull the filter and box out...to the right front where the box was there should be your 3 wires running to the switch..Check there crimps and connectors for corrosion ...It has to be the out-put line thats bad...Follow that line and check cause it sounds like its a line thats rubbing a ground if it blows that quickly..

the quick and easy way to check the key switch is to take the 2 wires going to the key switch off,,,connect them to eachother
if it blows a fuse the switch is good..if it doesnt u know the switch is shorting out..thats a easy way to see if the switch is bad...

 

[vmax626]

Also when I turn the switch on, there is no v-boost noise or fuel pump noise so I take it that they run off the same circut ???
<<Dave>>unk:

 

[satariel666]

Also when I turn the switch on, there is no v-boost noise or fuel pump noise so I take it that they run off the same circut ???
<<Dave>>unk:

V-boost, pressure sensor, TCI, coils, fuel pump und relays from starting circut.

 

[pumacorp]

everything runs off the key which is activated by the ignition key switch...

By pass the switch to see if the fuse and the bike is ok its in the switch..If not then it has to be from the output line from switch on..In other words if its not the switch it has to be anywhere from that output line on...

Can also be in the stop and run switch cause that shuts off the fuel pump relay as well...

Like i said start from key and and work your way down...Has to be a bad short to blow a fuse that fast..