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Sean, With your abilities I sure you could come up with a simpler spacer solution that would work really well. If I had a metal lathe (which I hope to have one eventually) I would have done that very same thing! I think my ultimate goal was to complete this without any custom machine work since...

I am going to keep the 267, I ordered that Chinese "galfer" knockoff that I like the look of a lot. I actually was looking at my swing arm today and I decided I am going to order another swing arm and do a different bracing structure. It will be very similar to the one shown above only with...

I appreciate the compliments! Im just a guy looking for cost effective ways of doing things

Update: I decided not to use the brace arm and have the caliper mount bolted directly to the swing arm. I drew inspiration from Brian's set up which i liked so much I ended up removing my swing arm and sandblasting it down to start over! Which is what I was trying not to do to begin with...

I like the caliper mount attached right to the swing arm without a brace. I really don't want to strip the arm down to re weld a tab but after seeing yours it really makes me want to do that haha.

I am also able to re-use stock length brake line, I do have Galfer stainless so I can rotate the banjos so I am unsure if the stock rubber lines would actually work.

Definitely clean looking, the caliper you are using is front left from an R1?

I saw the pictures on your album, looks sweet! I do like the rod end look, you have me inspired!

Nice, I thought about using rod ends as well ( i like that look) but my brace arm is so short it would be quite stubby looking. I went with 6061 3/8 thick aluminum bar stock 1" x 8" Do you have a pic of your setup?

Thanks! I really wanted a 267 rotor there are some nicer options out there for that size. I ran the stock 282 and the 300 rotors on the back and the 300 locked up to easy. This was my previous set up it was kind of over-engineered and bulky but it worked (to well).

I am in the process of adapting the FZ1 2000-2005 caliper (blue dot) and the 267 rear rotor to my max and I think I have a inexpensive solution. The caliper on the Fz1 is underslung which I like so it would require a post to be welded on the underside of the swing arm. (I had previously welded...

its fun the first 50 or so miles when your pipes are smoking like crazy from all the moisture!

I noticed my bro posted a pic of my bike haha. Sean is right, esp. with my Hindle exhaust the second pipe is so low it rubs on a trailer ramp. If you wrap your pipes I would plan on removing painting and re wraping every two to three years just to make sure they don't get to rusty. The best...

Also heres a sneak peak of one of my shocks finished.... Top spray rhino lined - Its durable and I have some other text black parts on my bike strut and top mount - VHT epoxy paint its strong and fairly chip resistant spring - satin black (stock color) pre load steps - left unfinished...

nice man! i found a solution to the cracked rubber bumper if your interested..... at lowes, ace, homedepot you can purchase a rubber stopper, you can then use a forstner bit and a brad point bit to drill out the proper holes. Its a nice way to update that cracked bumper. Pictures included <a...

Its tough to say since my intent was just to dis-assemble and re paint/replace the dried rubber bumper.... I know you can drain the oil through at the top of the inner stanchion (where the threading is) maybe it could be drained/measured and replaced with heavier weight oil. This would prevent...

Thanks guys!, I will have the assembly posting hopefully within the next few weeks, I also found a solution to the rubber bumper that is all cracked using a modified rubber stopper. May not be the best OEM type solution, but you'll never find that exact part short of dis-assembling stock vmax...

I didn't even like when I had to stop and take a picture lol I just wanted it out of there as quick as possible

There is always that option.... a couple friends to push down and one thats willing to stick his hands into that situation.

I like it!!! way less dangerous haha. My brother and I disassembled those progressives shown in your picture and they come apart a little different than the OEM ones. With the OEM shocks you have to have an automotive type that just compresses the spring because you don't have the benefit of...