FZ1 rotor and caliper modification

[BOM88]

I am in the process of adapting the FZ1 2000-2005 caliper (blue dot) and the 267 rear rotor to my max and I think I have a inexpensive solution. The caliper on the Fz1 is underslung which I like so it would require a post to be welded on the underside of the swing arm. (I had previously welded one for a 300mm modification that I did so I am re-using that)

Off of Ebay I found a 2002 FZ1 rear caliper and caliper mount for around $35 plus shipping. I bought it to use the parts as mock up and I would buy caliper in better condition once I got everything to work. When the caliper came in it was in great shape and the anodizing on the blue dot was nice as well.

The other parts I gathered where:

- Yamaha part number 90387-200j2 Rear Axle Spacer (you will need two of these, the one on your bike and a new one) $12 - $15
- Ametric bronze sleeve 20mm ID 28mm OD and 25mm long, I got one of ebay but you can get them from the Ametric website - $15.00 ish
- I also purchased a washer from tractor supply to use as a shim, It was a M18 washer and was about 2mm thick. The Inner diameter measured 19.15mm so used my dremel with the drum sander attachment to bore out the inner diameter to 20mm for a perfect fit.

The stock set up: part number 90387-200j2, caliper mount and washer = 45mm so that is our target width to keep everything spaced correctly.

The V-max rear axle is 20mm and the FZ1 caliper mount has a 28mm hole. The bronze sleeve presses nicely into the caliper mount (pic below) You press the bronze sleeve flush with the backside of the caliper mount. This leaves about 1.8-2.0mm on the opposite side.



This is the arrangement that works for me. Yamaha part number 90387-200j2 has a 28mm lip and fits right into the caliper mount. (pic below) I am running an old Kosman rear rim so my spacing may not work perfectly for every rim. Mcmaster-carr offers a variety of shim/washers that would help to fine tune. From left to right you have Yamaha part number 90387-200j2 with the lip facing right, caliper mount with bronze sleeve pressed flush with that back of the mount, the second Yamaha part number 90387-200j2 with the lip facing right and then the washer/spacer that worked for my setup. I also am running sealed bearings so the second 90387-200j2 and the washer/shim may have to be flip flopped for non sealed bearings. This set up = 45.23mm which is close enough for me!


I bought this rotor off Ebay. It looked like "galfer" copy I thought it may be nice. It is a chinese cheep knockoff but I double checked the runout and it is in spec. In fact any runout that I am getting .004in is probably the rotor carrier itself considering the rim is a bolt together rim. This rotor was about $50.00 with shipping for that price it was worth a shot to see if it was any good.



Here is a picture of everything mounted up. I am re-using the first plate that I welded on my swing arm along with the original brace arm I made so I have to machine an adaptor
that will work with my brace arm.


So that is where I am at with this so far. I have a plan for the brace arm adaptor but it really only applies to my situation. You could probably reuse the stock brace arm or make a shorter one. This is the part I need to make...

 

[davesax36]

This needs to be a sticky. Nice job.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

 

[one2dmax]

Looks good indeed.

 

[BOM88]

Thanks! I really wanted a 267 rotor there are some nicer options out there for that size. I ran the stock 282 and the 300 rotors on the back and the 300 locked up to easy. This was my previous set up it was kind of over-engineered and bulky but it worked (to well).

 

[dannymax]

Great work Ben!! :thumbs up:

 

[[email protected]]

Nice work.
I'm running a front rotor on the rear. R1 caliper. Custom vmax sevices caliper bracket. I cut the OEM brake rod tab off the top of the swingarm and welded it to the bottom. Attached caliper bracket to tab with a home made rod. Rod is aluminum round bar, chrome plated, drilled and tapped, stainless spherical rod ends threaded into each end. Pedal is a little softer than stock but works good.

 

[BOM88]

Nice, I thought about using rod ends as well ( i like that look) but my brace arm is so short it would be quite stubby looking. I went with 6061 3/8 thick aluminum bar stock 1" x 8"

Do you have a pic of your setup?

 

[BOM88]

I saw the pictures on your album, looks sweet! I do like the rod end look, you have me inspired!

 

[[email protected]]

Not the best pic but you get the idea.

The drilled stock you have looks great IMO. I like the contast of black and shiny metal. It would look right at home on my bike!

 

[BOM88]

Definitely clean looking, the caliper you are using is front left from an R1?

 

[[email protected]]

Yep

 

[BOM88]

I am also able to re-use stock length brake line, I do have Galfer stainless so I can rotate the banjos so I am unsure if the stock rubber lines would actually work.

 

[Redbone]

Nice work Ben, I'm sure you'll be happy with the smaller rotor which will give you all the braking you'll need.
I run a 282 Chinese rotor on the rear with a bracket from Sean (COO looks like) that gets bolted to the s/a brace directly. The s/a is 3" over and round tube braced. I am using a chromed R1/R6 front caliper with SS brake line run through the swing arm to the rear master with a pressure switch to activate the brake light. I am also running HH pads which I really like so far, I've had no inadvertent rear brake lockups with a good progressive feel to it. I'm running a 200 Shinko on Carrozzeria rims so I have plenty of meat to grab the road which came in handy trying to keep up with the guys at Thunder! I would come in the corner hard on the front brakes and mid hard on the back and as needed I could go full hard if the corner was sharper or other issue came up with no lockups. My setup is very similar to Mike's, even looks like we have the same type caliper bracket and calipers.
Here are a could pics of mine:


These are a couple pictures during mockup:

 

[gamorg02]

nice writeup! stickied

 

[BOM88]

I like the caliper mount attached right to the swing arm without a brace. I really don't want to strip the arm down to re weld a tab but after seeing yours it really makes me want to do that haha.

 

[BOM88]

Update:

I decided not to use the brace arm and have the caliper mount bolted directly to the swing arm. I drew inspiration from Brian's set up which i liked so much I ended up removing my swing arm and sandblasting it down to start over! Which is what I was trying not to do to begin with.

This is what I came up with:

I sandblasted the swingarm down and welded those spacers right on:


Now I am in the process of cleaning up the welds so it looks like it was one piece:

My welder is a Lincoln electric flux core mig and it makes a mess so I always have a lot to clean up.

 

[Redbone]

That looks sweet, nice work Ben! Should be a clean looking setup for sure. Are you going to stay with the 262 or go with a 282 rotor?

 

[BOM88]

I am going to keep the 267, I ordered that Chinese "galfer" knockoff that I like the look of a lot. I actually was looking at my swing arm today and I decided I am going to order another swing arm and do a different bracing structure. It will be very similar to the one shown above only with square tubing.

 

[one2dmax]

We've got pics of square tubing as well as the box tubing we normally use. Look in our facebook albums or email me. The albums will have them all in one place (until we get our website updated).

We have done a number of the arms like we did for Brian but most use the 1x2 box bracing. We also have done a few with the hose running through the arm like his does. I do like your idea for the rear brake instead of the larger caliper and rotor. I've got a few of the parts around here. Bleeding them this way will be a ton easier to do.

What we'd do different would be to simply make a bushing with flange on it to press into the brake mount. We could even weld in a slug and not even have to use any bushings. The brake can either go directly to the tab like we did there or it can use the simple stay bar like you had originally.

 

[BOM88]

Sean,

With your abilities I sure you could come up with a simpler spacer solution that would work really well. If I had a metal lathe (which I hope to have one eventually) I would have done that very same thing! I think my ultimate goal was to complete this without any custom machine work since I don't have the equipment lol.

I looked on your Facebook, I like the "truss" looking swing arm I think I am going to have to replicate that style with the box tubing. We have a company close by that stocks hot rolled structural box tubing.